Steamtrains' 2010 Summer structure challenge entry

[nachoman]

Looking real nice!

[Gary S]

a lot of work benches seem to be a standard detail, they never seem to be cleared so I pretty sure they just build more workbenches

Nice one Greg!

[Steamtrains]

MGG..."Pricey" is right..!! Thanks for the info...I'll look into it for when I do the interior detailing.

Now...MAJOR decision time....Should I "hinge" the doors-make them operable, or glue them in place..?? The question arises from two considerations:
1.- Go through the hassle of making them operable, when 99.9% of the time they'll be in the open position.
2.- If operable, BOTH sides will need to have the "stripboard" look, and the planking I'm using has stripping only on one side, So I would have to scribe strips on the "blank" side. Not something I'd look forward to...Knowing the striping WILL NOT come out like the factory scribing....

So....Your kind opinions will be most welcome....

The two litlle side doors will be fixed in the semi-open position...No problem there...

ADDENDUM....

A few years back I made this one-staller (is there a "family" resemblance..??) with operable doors...And I haven't touched the doors since I placed it on the layout...

[jim currie]

looking fantabules , you could use .020 scribed styreen and lamanate it for the doors .
jim

[Gary S]

Modeling them in a non-operating open position seems reasonable considering your comments. But you'll still have to model the backs of the doors, right? Would it be possible to model them in a fully opened position where you could swap sides on the doors so the factory side is showing? But then all the door hardware would show, which wouldn't be on the inside. I hope my thoughts make sense...

[doctorwayne]

Were it up to me, I'd make the doors operable - you may not open and close them much when you're operating the trains, but it's a nice option to have for photo-taking purposes. For the double-sided board detail, plank-by-plank is the way to go. An easy way to hinge them is to simply use a short length of wire it the lintel and a corresponding one in the sill, embedding the wire in the top and bottom edges of the doors, although for wooden construction, you'll likely have to add the sill and its wire after the door is in place. Another alternative is to bend the wires into "L"s, then insert them into the door jambs, at the top and bottom, with the "leg" of the L sticking down and up, respectively. If you use this option, the hinge wires can be installed in the doors, then the door assemblies into the door openings. For the "L"-shaped hinge wires, use music wire to prevent the door from sagging through continued use. For styrene construction, you could probably install the hinge wires in the door jambs, then flex the door to install it. Add Grandt Line or similar hinge detail and you're set to go.
I often use the operating feature for photos, although I can't find any pictures with the doors closed.




EDIT: not the best view, but here's one with the doors closed :


Wayne

[Sumpter250]

The doors on my four stall roundhouse ( page 2 of this thread ) have been open for the thirty + years it's been around. Then again, anything "movable" is not a good idea on a transportable module. Things that move get broken, or break things, when they detach and then move. I still haven't decided whether or not to make the boathouse doors free swinging . They are, now, but once attached to the module.........

[Steamtrains]

Well...I bit the bullet....Have spent a couple of hours scribing the backside of those doors and staining them. So...They will be operable. Hinging will be as per Dr. W's method.
Actually, what made up my mind, was moving the doors on my engine house...It is kind'a neat..!!

[Steamtrains]

Well...I finally got the doors done..!!
I've never cut & glued so many LITTLE pieces to make anything...My count is 14 pieces per door (one leaf) plus the core, which I had to scribe on the not-so-blind side..., which makes 32" of 1/32 x 3/32" framing for each one.... :o And had to do that 6 times....(You do the math...) I'm glad that's over with.....
Here's a pic of a not-yet mounted set of doors...They still need weathering....



Next I turned to the hinges....Originally I had thought of following Dr. W's suggestion, but had to change to the "prototypical" hinging, since there wasn't enough space between the door and the frame to allow for "hidden" hinges. So I had to make "operable" (where originally they were going to be just "for looks") face mounted hinges...The way I made them was by using very thin plastic sheeting which I cut to the proper dimensions, and for the pivot I used heat shrink tubing shrunk to the size of the hinge pin, and glued (CA) to the straps....



With this, I turned out a "gaggle" of hinges...



Apart from being "prototypical", I can leave them off for the time being and install them when all the other work (roof) is done. If I had used "hidden" hinges, I would have had to install them at the time I glued the cross beam right above the doors, which you can see in the pics is not there yet. This way they'll not run the risk of being "knocked" about while roofing is getting done....

So..."unto the breach" once more...Will have pics when roofing gets underway....

[Gary S]

Those doors look fantastic just like they are. Are you sure they need any weathering? And the hinges are some great work too. All that little intricate stuff scares me!

[Steamtrains]

Well...The door ordeal is done....I finished hanging all doors, so all work on the lower part is done... Will just need some "touch-ups" and weathering when all work is complete, to avoid any further "dings & scratches"....

A couple of pics...







I think once I get all the "Super Glue" off my fingers I'll appreciate them a little more...

[P5se Camelback]

Hey. Gus ...

... I've been meaning to ask, but keep forgetting by the time I've read to the bottom of the page. But this time, after scrolling down to the new stuff and reading it, I stiil remember the question (plus the photos helped remind me.)

What is that on the inside of the windows? Is that a permanent interior covering or are they just "papered over" like on a new retail store install so that we can't see the interior detailling until the "Grande Opening?" :?: :?

[Gary S]

Looking better and better all the time. How do the doors work? Any squeaky hinges?

[Steamtrains]

biL...The window "glazing" is from old architectural drawings (the kind used to make "blueprints"). I normally use a more "transparent "type, but since there isn't much maintenance going on at that r'house, I decided to go with a "buff" (yellowed) plastic. I still need to "grundge it up some....

Gary...No squeaky hinges here, since the pivot is made of shrink tubing....

[Sumpter250]

Gary...No squeaky hinges here, since the pivot is made of shrink tubing....

Hmmmm.......some kind of motion sensor, that triggers a recording of the "door to the inner sanctum", every time at least one door is moved.