Conrail GP15-1 build... JUST DO IT.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

cool. I still have a bunch of Smokey Valley GP15-1s I need to put together.

[Puddlejumper]

One of those GP15-1s I recieved had a damaged rear pilot, you can see it here.


I ordered a kit from Railflyer Model Prototypes that includes parts for building step wells for EMD diesels. I was able to remove the damaged plastic and replace the steps with the brass parts in around an hour.


The repair looks better than the factory steps did, however the amount of work involved, to me, is not worth the aesthetic improvement. For that reason I am not doing the other three pilot steps on this model. The repair, though, was necessary and worth it in my opinion. I will place the remaining parts in my parts bin in hopes that I won't need to use them in the future.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

cool, i might need these for that GP40FH-2 i'm doing. the smokey valley steps are good, but there is still trouble with them.

[Puddlejumper]

cool, i might need these for that GP40FH-2 i'm doing. the smokey valley steps are good, but there is still trouble with them.

I'm sure Railflyer has the steps you need. There are several different step kits, just for EMD units. I had to do some research to figure out whcih steps I needed. I would recommend checking out their website. http://www.Railflyermodelprototypes.com

[Gary S]

What glue did you use to attach the brass to the plastic shell?

[Puddlejumper]

What glue did you use to attach the brass to the plastic shell?

I just used plain old CA.

[Gary S]

Thanks PJ. I guess I am going to have to try that stuff. I've always had issues with the little tubes drying up. Of course, that was years ago when I used it, and just didn't have good luck back then. But it seems folks use it for everything now-a-days. Any particular brand or type you would recommend?

[rrinker]

My 'trick' with CA is not to buy the larger jars of it. At Home Depot or maybe Lowes, I forget which, I found 8 packs af small tubes of Locktite brand. While more expensive then a large bottle as sold in the hobby shop, with the small tubes, should one dry up on you because the lid wasn't sealed tightly, you don't loose much. Of course, I've been able to use each one 100%, never getting a clogged nozzle or stuck cap, or having it harden in the tube. But if I would go get a larger size I know it would be set hard in less than a week and I'd have to throw the whole thing out.

--Randy

[Puddlejumper]

I concur with Randy. I do not think brand name makes much difference, and I have had issues with tubes hardening once opened. I just buy whatever small multi pack the local drug store has in stock. As far as using CA for everything, I prefer to use Testors Plastic Cement for repairs that involve only plastic. I feel the solvent gives a better bond than CA does. I believe Dr. Wayne uses paint thinner to reach the same purpose?

Dave

[P5se Camelback]

Ubetcha! Lacquer thinner (or Toluol) literally "welds " the two pieces of plastic together. I learned of that method of joining pieces of plastic together in the early '70's, working in the shop at my second job out of art school, in a consultant design office where we did a lot of medical equipment. On one occasion, we built operating prototypes of six small, sun glasses case sized patient-work heart monitors for a beta test. These enclosures were built totally from "scratch" from several thicknesses of sheet styrene (purchased in 4x8 sheets) from engineering drawings that we had generated. The build included cutting tiny pieces of "cove molding" to be welded into all inside corners and then when it cured and was hard, was scraped smooth with an radius gauge. We even cut "very tiny double coves" to be welded on (and again scraped with the Stainless precision radius gauges) to indicate mold parting lines. After everthing had been sanded "baby's bottom smooth" with 1200 wet paper, they were shot with some paint and all "welded" joints disappeared. The product halves looked for the world like production injection molded parts, especially after we silk screened all of the graphics (company logo, LED indentifiers, etc.) on the front case halves. It was all very cool ... and a ton of fun! What a cool job ... dress casually (jeans, denim shirt,) design and build cool stuff in a well-appointed shop with a couple other fun-loving guys who all really knew what they were doing and didn't complain about pulling all nighters about once a week to get the jobs done on time ... and get paid pretty well to do it! Who could ask for more? But, as usual, I digress!

But back to the thread topic ... I've been using Lacquer Thinner ever since - much cheaper in larger quantities than the Testors Liquid Plastic cement or the Plastruct solvent. And I just decant some of it into an old Plastruct bottle that's double-stick taped to a good sized plastic drink coaster so it won't tip over.

[Puddlejumper]

A couple pix of the nearly complete GP15-1 CR 1654. The only "baby geep" on CR to wear "big boy clothes". Actually, that's not quite accurate. I've been digging through GP15-1 photos on the web and have found that several units wore the road unit version of the CR "Quality" paint scheme, but this is the only one I can find that wore the large "can opener" version of the scheme, so it is still a unique unit.







I think I am done with the GP15-1s. There are so many variations, there really is no way to model them all. For example there are at least 2 versions of the Operation Lifesaver scheme, the as delivered switcher scheme, the switcher scheme with the white frame stripe, the modified switcher scheme (the small can opener extends all the way to the cab, similar to the big ones on road units), at least 3 more versions of the CR Quality scheme... you get the point. And it all started with a swoosh-painted promo unit that only existed for a day or 2. Sheesh.

[P5se Camelback]

When it comes to ACC (alpha cyanoacrylate) I usually use "Zap!", and sometimes "Zap! Gapfilling."

To me, the tricks to keep it from hardening in the tube/bottle is to ensure that:

- The tube/bottle opening (liquid delivery area) is clean and open. A clogged opening can be frustrating and seems to hasten the dreaded solid tube of bonding agent. I tap and then squeeze the tube/bottle, watching that last drop move up and down until it drops back down into the bottle of emerges to be wiped away. When I can hear air moving in and out, I am satisfied the delivery area is free from obstruction. Then, to reinforce the notion that the opening is free from obstruction, I slide a straight pin in and out a few times, wiping it clean between insertions.

- The area around where the closure/cap fits must be kept totally free from dried adhesive, as an ill-fitting closure/cap will lead to an early solidifying of the liquid in the tube/bottle.

- When not in use, my ACC container fits into a small, purpose-built wooden base, designed to keep it upright, and sits wedged in between two large jars in the refrigerator door. Keeping it refrigerated seems to help it last a bit longer without hardening in the container.

Beyond that, I don't know what to tell you, but I have had good luck with ACC by maintaining these standards and practices.