A one evening turntable bash

[BR60103]

The old way to do this was with brass tube soldered to the outside of the rails, and a push fit brass rod inside. The rod would be slid through the fixed track and into the turntable track. Positive electrical and mechanical joint.

[ocalicreek]

The old way to do this was with brass tube soldered to the outside of the rails, and a push fit brass rod inside. The rod would be slid through the fixed track and into the turntable track. Positive electrical and mechanical joint.

A sliding bolt latch/lock for a door could be cheap at the local hardware store and would provide this kind of electrical and mechanical joint, perhaps one on either side of the track, (one for each rail).

OR, I like biL's idea of the good old knife switch. A single knife switch on either side (with the knife portion on the layout and the receiving fittings on either side of the turntable) would work.

I'm contemplating these methods for my own staging area turntable...when I get to that phase of construction. Everything I've ever read about track wiring says DO NOT rely on rail joiners alone for good electrical contact. It could be a conspiracy of wire and solder manufacturers lobbying against track manufacturers....or it could be good advice.

That said, if it's working for you, enjoy it while it works.

Galen

[e-paw]

Nice use of an old idem JGL.. I like your Idea of the PCB and phosphor bronze. Can't wait to see how you solve the problem...

[jglfan]

David, I think that is a fantastic solution! Easy, and I like easy. Epaw, it'll be awhile before I do anything, the rail joiners will have to fail first! I've got plenty of more interesting things to do, starting with getting back to the passenger station. I'd like to get some people together for an operating session. Any Gauge members in the area who are interested, let me know. If you are new here and I don't know you very well, please don't be upset if I decline!

Galen, I too have read the warnings about relying on rail joiners to conduct electrical power, and took them as gospel for most of my modeling years. About 12 years ago, when I laid track on the bottom level of my railroad, I used Atlas code 100 track, with the intent to replace with hand laid in the future, a section at a time. I did relay one scene, but then I decided to work on the upper level, have not yet returned to the bottom! However, because the track on the bottom was to be replaced, I used only a couple drops, needed due to turnouts, etc. And none of the rail joints were soldered. 12 years on, I have only added one more set of drops, and I notice no voltage drop. I've got about 130' of track between staging yard loops with one or two feedred on each of the double tracks. So those warnings, while I take seriously with my hand laid track, soldering feeds to every rail, may be a bit overstated.

[doctorwayne]

I've soldered almost all of the track on my layout, and use only a pair of relatively small wires, connected at only one point, to power the layout. I've had no problems with voltage drops, although I'm running DC. The exceptions to the soldered connections are at the bridges, which are all removeable. I've added feeder drops to all, but none are connected and all bridge current is carried through the unsoldered rail joiners holding each bridge in place. If a problem should arise, a couple of alligator clips should take care of it - all the wire is already in place.

Wayne

[BR60103]

One layout I operated on was cobbled together from sections of older layouts. We were having a few problems with one section and had to check the wiring. We found that the bit of wire connecting two sections had come off and a quarter of the layout was being fed through one loose rail joiner which had uncertain contact when a train passed over it.

[Russ Bellinis]

JGL, the plugs I was talking about are called Jones Cinch Plugs. We use them to electrically connect modules together in a modular club. It is also at the modular club where they "preach" and require a soldered drop to every single piece of rail on every module. The only place rail joiners are allowed to carry current is across joiner tracks at the ends of the modules. It may well be that the standards are higher than necessary for a modular club because of the rough service with all of the tear down and set up, transport, and storage that modules require.

[ocalicreek]

Those warnings about not relying on rail joiners may also be more critical to folks who use sectional track then take apart and put together various track configurations down on the floor or loose on a ping-pong table. OR folks for whom humidity and dust are more problematic (like in an unfinished shed or garage). If your layout room is well insulated and moisture regulated you may have no trouble whatsoever.

I was in the club of which Russ speaks and agree that such stern standards may be needed for modular layouts. Hunting gaps and shorts in front of the viewing public is not good PR for the hobby. I have also heard it said you should NOT solder joints but rely strictly on feeders because track will expand and contract and without expansion gaps will buckle and go out of gauge. Again I think it depends on the environment.

Just report back in a couple years to let us know how it's going. If all is well, fantastic. If not, well, that's important data too and I'm sure others would benefit from your experience either way.

Galen