Finally getting around to building frame for my layout
#1
My main layout -- at least the one that I'm using most of the time these days -- is approx. 5.5 x 3.5' in size. It's about as small as you can get in a HO (or British 00) continuous run layout. I was thinking that, before I add any additional scenery, I really need to get going on building a frame around it to give it more support. The layout is built on about 4 pieces of 2" thick insulation foam that I've glued together. I kept making the layout larger by adding on extra pieces of foam!

If I had to move this layout, or store it, it would actually be quite flimsy and could easily be damaged. It's also DC, so it has several wires running underneath. I want to be able to access these wires in the future if I need to solve any electrical problems.

I actually posted a question about this topic a few months ago (<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2616">viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2616</a><!-- l -->) and received some great advice. I'm thinking of adding a piece of door skin underneath the layout as suggested in this earlier thread. Hopefully, I will have room to build up the sides a little as well.

However, I was also thinking that maybe I could simply give the layout more support by adding another layer of 2" thick insulation foam underneath instead of the door skin? Just a thought, although I'm sure the door skin is the better option. The foam is light and I am concerned to minimize the layout's weight.

Thanks in advance for any feedback,
Rob
Rob
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#2
Hi Rob,

While laminating more layers in the same plane as the top "deck" will give you more strength (think plywood), you need to start adding some framing at right angles and a bit of cross-bracing to engineer some strength into the layout.

Perhaps you should think about framing the outside of the layout with 1x4 (nominal or ripped from 3/4" plywood) and adding some cross-members. Check out this site for some ideas: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/ModConstr/ModConstr01.htm">http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/ModCo ... nstr01.htm</a><!-- m -->

Bob is one of the "module guys" at my local club (<!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.hotrak.ca">www.hotrak.ca</a><!-- w -->). He has modified his methods somewhat since creating the web site, but the principles are the same. You should be able to easily support 2" foam with a frame that has 24" to 30" spacing. Two other advantages of an open frame approach are that 1) No wood to drill through for wiring and 2) the 4" high frame leaves 2" underneath to conceal said wiring, tortoises, and anything else.


Andrew
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#3
Thanks, Andrew. I've bookmarked that site and will have a look at this later today (little busy at work right now).

Take care & thanks again.

Rob
Rob
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#4
Hi Rob,

I read your other thread, including the doorskin idea. I had mocked up a frame (like the Railway Bob frame), but made from doorskin. If you have some patience, you can engineer strength into the frame, rather than relying on the thicker lumber to be stronger. I am not sure that the weight savings were worth it - if I recall, you'd only be looking at a couple of pounds versus a frame made from dimensional pine. However, sometimes every ounce is worth it.

If you are interested, I'll sketch up som eplans for you.

Andrew
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#5
MasonJar Wrote:Hi Rob,
I read your other thread, including the doorskin idea. I had mocked up a frame (like the Railway Bob frame), but made from doorskin. If you have some patience, you can engineer strength into the frame, rather than relying on the thicker lumber to be stronger. I am not sure that the weight savings were worth it - if I recall, you'd only be looking at a couple of pounds versus a frame made from dimensional pine. However, sometimes every ounce is worth it.
If you are interested, I'll sketch up som eplans for you.
Andrew

Andrew,

Sure, I'd be interested to see these plans, if it's not too much trouble. Hopefully, whatever I build will be fairly simple to build and inexpensive.

Thanks,
Rob
Rob
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#6
I would use either dimensional lumber or 1x4 ripped from plywood for a perimeter frame, and then support it underneath with the door skin. Foam is extremely stiff and resistant to bending, but it is brittle and will break easily. The perimeter frame will protect the edges from being broken if bumped, and the door skin underneath will protect it from breaking. A bit of molding on the inside of the perimeter frame at the bottom will provide a lip to support the door skin and foam on.
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#7
Robert:
I made a frame using inverted L-girder -- 4 sides with the projection under the foam and a bunch of cross supports at 12-16" intervals. This was good for 2" foam for a Lionel layout. Still don't have good legs for it. I used 1x3 "white" wood.
David
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Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
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