Gondolas of Lake Terminal RR.

[cn nutbar]

Amazing work Bernhard,you're a true artist

[doctorwayne]

It's very enjoyable to watch as you overcome the various situations that arise as you add details to these cars.
Those small drill bits would be very handy to have, but my local tool supply shop doesn't carry anything smaller than a #80. The oversize shank on yours is ideal, too, as there's no need for a special pin vise for such small drills.

It's difficult to tell from the picture in PSC's catalogue, since the illustrations are drawings rather than photographs, but their HO-3263 (this one is supposedly meant for tenders, and is a brass casting - two for $2.50) appears to be more detailed than the one offered by Tichy. (Tichy's version is especially disappointing because their styrene parts are usually very nicely rendered, with very crisp details.) PSC also offers retainer valves (again, meant for tenders, although they appear identical to those used on freight cars) in plastic - these are HO-31796 and are four for $2.00.

It's interesting how shop forces moved those retainers around until they found a less-vulnerable location that would protect them from damage. Gondolas, especially those with drop ends, often had the retainer located on the car's side, as on the Proto2000 gondola shown below. (It's right next to the grabirons on the right end, and still has its oversize plastic "pipe".)


Wayne

[e-paw]

All I have to say about this build so far is

[modelsof1900]

Thanks again for your kind compliments. I think this all will need a bit experiences only and all will be repeatable.

Doc Wayne, thank you for your searching in PSC loco catalog. I have found the mentioned items however they look different to the retaining valves for freight cars. And thanks for your infos about the different locations of these valves. My own problem is that I did not study enough my pictures for positioning these valves and so I think that I must move them down one or two millimeters to the lower board in one of next steps.

Sumpter250, thanks for your additions in sizes of drill bits. Before writing this text a have searched a table of American drill bit sizes and smallest that I have found was size #80. So I must write diameter of my small drill bit in millimeters and decimal inches. And they are breakable, also! However they are many more elastically than my 0.3 mm drill bits (near to the #80 – this would be exactly 0.3249 mm). I reality I use drill bits with a 0.32 mm diameter because so I can insert easily the 0,3 mm wire to the holes.
The problem in using such fine drill bits is my different handling. I use the 0.3 mm drill bits with a small electric hand drill. On other side drilling these fine 0.2 mm holes were drilled by turning the drill bit between two fingers – however that was plastic that I have had to drill. The problem will follow in next time where I must build a few fine brass parts for an other project and there I must insert also a few holes with a 0.2 mm dia for simulating fine rivets. Using the hand drill in this case? I think that not another way will exist.

Getting such fine tools is also here in Germany a problem. I have searched for drill bit makers and I found two brands and after I searched whose tool markets with a very thin result. So I’m buy these things directly from the producer – pricing sample for one 0.2 mm drill bit: $13.50 plus tax $2.50 + sh.
Saying to my wife – I will need only a few wood strips and wires for my modeling jobs however I know that she does not trust my words.

[torikoos]

I had good luck in finding small drill bits on the internet. Here's one example made by Tamiya.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74090finedrill/index.htm">http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/ ... /index.htm</a><!-- m -->

Koos

[modelsof1900]

Koos,

thank you very much for your link. However there is the problem that these drill bits do not have an oversized shank. I have to tried using my drill bits with a pin vise however than I developed to many power for a smooth drilling. On this way two of my 0.2 mm drill bits were broken and so I use them turning by two figers only until a new challenge will come. I think that you will not have a good handling without such oversized shanks.
Thanks anyway!

[rrinker]

Wow, that's something I thought I'd NEVER hear - that it's a problem getting small precisions tools in Germany. There's a tradition of fine tool work in Germany, and the work presented here is a fine testament to that. The detailing of every little fitting and fixture is absolutely incredible.

--Randy

[modelsof1900]

Time is going and ...



new small parts ...



... and more small parts ...



And now - the first model has got its brake, completely! But four more models must get them also. (Click on picture for a more large view.)

However this will be a good step to finishing, I must find an end in next time – and never I will build five models again, never!

[rrinker]

Incredible work, ever lever, chain, rod, clevis, bracket - it's all there!

--Randy

[Steamtrains]

I'm overwhelmed...!!!
I can't believe anyone could have the patience and manual dexterity to do that....There are even holes in the stirrups..!!
My hat's off to you Bernhard....By far, the best model builder I have EVER seen....

[modelsof1900]

Thanks again to all for your loud and opinion.

...There are even holes in the stirrups..!!

Here I will add two more pictures how I fix the metal parts to the wood frame.
Gluing alone is not a good solution, I think! So I try to work similarly to the originals, fixing by bolts (or nails). And so the small holes in the stirrups and brackets are a must.
First picture shows a prepared bracket for a first provisional mounting by two “nails” – short thin wire where a made a very small head to one end and a fine needle end to other side.
Second picture shows the mounted bracket and at left side you see also my attempts to find the right position of left leg. Should I close the not used small holes? I think that I will not fill them by small wood dowels – it’s a car which is a very long time in heavy service and there were made many repairs and changes. Or?

Sorry. I must add that after a first fixing of metal parts I try to raise the item from the ground and than I add a fine drop of glue (most ACC) behind it to the nails. So I think that a small bit of glue will be soaked in the wood holes and the part will fixed additionally – I think. The result is satisfying – in most cases.

[Puddlejumper]

Bernhard,
Simply extraordinary. Your attention to detail, and precision is simply amazing. My hat is off to you my friend.

Now, with all this practice, you can build a board by board composite wood hopper for my railroad. LOL! Seriously though, watching you build this has gotten me thinking I might be able to build a wood war hopper with metal side bracing. I have wanted to this for some time, I may actually try now.

[modelsof1900]

Dave, sorry. I think that I must disappoint you.
I'm sure that all my already started projects will need this whole year until christmas in order to finish a few of them. I wrote a list to a friend what I would like to do and I must see that there will be not enough time for starting one new project - and I would like to build a few long time wished models - a V&T caboose, V&T water car, two different V&T passeneger cars and a few more other freight cars. However the time is gone year by year also when I am retiered since more than three years and never I finished that what I have planned in beginning of year. And than I should start also my engine rebuilding and digitalizing projects - and where can I buy additional time doing this all? Ok, must I sleep for eight hours in each night?
However when you will build your models by self than you will have a wonderful time and you will be very enjoyed when you have finished your own built models.

[Steamtrains]

Bernhard...I meant to ask about the "nails" for the stirrups...I should have suspected they were laying about somewhere...

[modelsof1900]

Gus,
unfortunately my „nails“ do not “laying about somewhere...” I must them make piece for piece from wire – not more than 30 per car alone for the brake components. What I could buy are small rivets from a model supplier – however there are the shafts too short for a real riveting and I need a fine tip in order to find the small holes. These rivets can be used only as imitation similarly to NBW. However I have seen “riveted” metal profiles on side walls of O-scale model cars; it was looking brilliant!

Before new pictures – brakes are installed to all five models. A big step to finishing of the models! Now I can add the truss rods – made in the “home shop”.



Here are pictured the good half. Altogether I will need 60 pieces again for all five cars.





Now here two pictures after mounting the inner four truss rods (of the first model). It is the first time that I fixed (and strained) the truss roads really by nuts – cut from plastic NBW. Before I cut short screw thread to ends of truss rods; these are from 0.5 millimeter wire (0.020”) so I could get the corresponding cutting tools. Additional I fixed the nuts after straining by a drop AC-glue and I hope for a fixing all the time. In other case I must change the nuts by such made from metal NBW. Do you identify the two different types of nuts? The two center truss rods are strained by square nuts on the wooden buffer block in difference to the outer hexagonal nuts which are placed on the heavy metal strip which will dispense the power from the outer truss rods over the overall width of the car. Sorry, the last picture is not defined enough for seeing these small differences of nuts. A few next pictures of ends will show you more, I think.
The next four truss rods will make a bit more trouble because they will need a few additional small parts again for guiding and fixing.