Bridge at South Wayside

[Harry]

great work

[Sumpter250]

but what I learned most is that what you think you see is not always what is really there. Which brings up an interesting topic that we've discussed before: When building a model from the prototype, should emphasis be placed on building an exact replica, or should we make minor modifications towards what we and others "expect" the model to look like?

That...................depends.
I build ship models, and when modeling a prototype I do extensive research to insure that the model is the prototype in miniature.( I've watched "Master and Commander" way too many times, gleaning as much detail of HMS Surprise as I can, and correcting the misperceptions. ) The ships on the new modules are more representations of type, than of prototype. In the end, I think it should be "artistic license", unless it is meant to be a perfect reproduction. After all, it's not going to be in a "prototype environment".....as in a perfect reproduction of all the surrounding details. ( the road doesn't go a whole lot further than the immediate bridge area...... unless you use a photo for the backdrop. )

[doctorwayne]

I think your redo of the bridge is a big improvement, Gary.

As for the layout fascia, I'd cut it down to road level - that'll make it much easier to get street-level shots of trains on that great-looking bridge.

Harry, to Big Blue.

While working to a specific prototype can be very satisfying, I agree with Pete and see no reason why the artist shouldn't be allowed some input, too.

Wayne

[Steamtrains]

... On all counts....

[P5se Camelback]

Gary!

What the Aiche Ee Double Hockey Sticks is wrong with the yellow now!!???? hock:

Geez! It sure looks pretty damn good from my house!!!!!

[BR60103]

If the yellow on the model is wrong, you need either:
-a new camera
-different colour light bulbs
-cataract surgery. :geek:
It looks close enough to me.
I can never get a yellow car to look right; mine don't seem to have a consistent coat of paint.

[ocalicreek]

Yellow is just one of those tricky colors to match. Not sure why this is, but I'd say it's sure close enough for my eye! Outstanding work, as usual.

Galen

[Gary S]

Time to catch up on this thread. I was preoccupied with the Potato factory switching.

Okay. Gary how do you plan to do the Facia across the opening created by the road? I may be jumping ahead on you, but I got to wondering when I looked at your pictures. Is your facia going to be one uniform height across the front or do you plan on making it a cut out to street level?

Like docWayne suggested, the plan is to make the fascia follow the countours, down to the road level and back up... leaving a cutout at the road. It'll be the same at all the bridges. The fascia will deep down with the bayous, creeks, and streets.


Harry, I am honored that your second post was on my thread, and thank you for the compliment! Sorry it took me awhile to reply.

DocWayne, although the bridge still has a certain amount of "cartoon" to it, it is much better without those rivet plates that weren't even on the prototype.

biL, Galen, BR60103, I am definitely being a bit craZy worrying about the yellow color. I'm over it and it and the color will stay as is.

Okay, should get the track down and maybe even ballast this weekend. Allright! Another model railroad weekend!

[Gary S]

A little done today, got the track installed and the terrain cut down to the proper level around the bridge. Now letting the glue dry, tomorrow I may get the ballast down.

   

[Gary S]

Putting some ballast on:

   

[faraway]

You don't paint the rails before ballasting? Might be a less pleasant job to do your miles of tracks afterwards... :o

[tetters]

You don't paint the rails before ballasting? Might be a less pleasant job to do your miles of tracks afterwards... :o

Agreed...painting the track before ballasting is definitely easier.

[Gary S]

I used to paint first, but changed my method. Since I brush paint the rails and the ties with water-based craft paint, I've just found it better to do after the ballast goes on. The alcohol wet water and thinned glue makes the paint darker if I paint first.

I know alot of people use an airbrush or a spray can to do the painting, but I don't. I'd would just rather do it by hand (call me crazy). For the rails, I take several colors of rust and dark brown and just randomly put them on, mixing here and there, just to have some slight variations. For the ties, I use various grays and off-whites and tans on different ties, mixing the paints, again to get a nice variation. After the paint dries, I'll put on a black wash. Yeah, it is time consuming, but with the proper brush and the proper paint density, it goes on fairly quickly.

The other day, I was thinking of doing a picture tutorial of what I do. I guess I should, as soon as I get to a 3 or 4 foot long section that I am ballasting.

[nachoman]

I've painted rails after ballasting before. You just need to be more precise with your brush. I still prefer to paint before ballasting, but I almost always wind up having to touch up a few areas because of paint that comes loose from spreading the ballast.

[Harry]

Harry, to Big Blue.

Wayne

Thank you Wayne