GP 15
#16
P5se Camelback Wrote:Oh yeah! That's what I said when I bought my first piece of brass (...)
Oh goodness, I've had plenty of bad experiences with brass models over the years. Brings back plenty of bad memories. State of the art detail for their time - worst performing models ever! I did have a couple of Overland Models diesels that were honeys, but everything else I ever purchased that was brass was terrible.
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
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#17
It sounds to me like the plastic locomotives have finally "caught up" to their brass cousins. Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol
biL

Lehigh Susquehanna & Western 

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
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#18
P5se Camelback Wrote:It sounds to me like the plastic locomotives have finally "caught up" to their brass cousins. Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol
I'd say plastic has surpassed brass these days (in most cases). I know that were I going to purchase a GenSet model, I'd take my chances with an Athearn model before I'd fork over $930.00 for the Overland Models brass one. But then I've been working very hard all my life to not become a millionaire and have succeeded quite well!
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
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#19
Icon_lol I was referring to ... "Lots of great detail... doesn't run worth a damn." Icon_lol
biL

Lehigh Susquehanna & Western 

"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
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#20
I was curious about the new Athern Genesis GP15. My hope to get an MP based UP GP15 to be used in the LA area vanished after I learned the UP GP15 will be based on the CNW model.

I tried another approach and got a Conrail GP15 and put the shell of an P1K UP GP15 on it. The low end P1K shell got some details and the Conrail drive a gray UP paint job. The result looks ok but not great to me but it runs very smooth and silent. That is a good deal for my poor eye sight but excellent ears.Those of you with good eyes would call it possibly a down grade :o

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[Image: Img_0575.jpg?t=1299778979]

Some remarks about the conversion:
The P1K shell has four extra screws to mount it to the drive. This four parts in the corners of the shell must be removed up to the roof of the long and short hood. About 2,5 mm styrene must be glued inside under the couplers. They will hold the shell by the coupler screws as usual.
Two very bright LED can be attached to the PCB directly where the bulbs have been connected. 1.5 Volt is not a lot for LED but if you use very bright LED it will be ok. That prevents any modifications to the Athearn drive and shell. The more expensive Athearn Genesis GP15 will be left untouched. The trucks and tank have been painted with custom mixed TAMYA flat paint. That paint is not very stable and can be washed off if required later.

My Athearn drive did not show any problems reported here. The current pickup is very stable and it runs smooth and silent after about 30 minutes break in.

ps. I got a Conrail because the shell is a good base for a possible layout in the east. The shell can be easy patched to NS spanning a large time frame.
Reinhard
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#21
I have 3 Proto GP15s and am quite happy with them. Nice work Reinhard.
-Dave
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#22
Are there any differances/complaints between the Athearn GP-15's and the Proto 200 GP-15's? Reason I ask i just got a Proto GP-15 but have not gotten a chance to really run it yet. the price was right on it , thats the main reason i got it over the Athearn.


Todd
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#23
The biggest difference I have seen is the see through radiator section on the Athearn units.
-Dave
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#24
csiguy68 Wrote:Are there any differances/complaints between the Athearn GP-15's and the Proto 200 GP-15's? Reason I ask i just got a Proto GP-15 but have not gotten a chance to really run it yet. the price was right on it , thats the main reason i got it over the Athearn.


Todd

I have all three plastic GP15 varieties, Smokey Valley, Athearn Genesis, and Proto 1000.

Basically, the Athearns are superior in performance, details, and features. However, the P1ks aren't bad, and as you have said, the Price is Right, and it will work. the Smoke Valley units are probably the m0st work and least accurate (though very easy to detail to the point of surpassing the Athearn). For a time, these were the only GP15s out there.

I personally would prefer the Athearn's, but P1Ks are great.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#25
faraway Wrote:I was curious about the new Athern Genesis GP15. My hope to get an MP based UP GP15 to be used in the LA area vanished after I learned the UP GP15 will be based on the CNW model.

Have you tried Smokey Valley? those kits aren't always easy to find, but they did make an GP15 for every prototype. If you use Cannon ends, noses, and cabs, you pretty much automatically have a top notch model, short of the see thru grills. I know they had a MOPAC version. I have a Mopac Handrail kit for a GP15, meant to use it on one of my Conrail shells.

I've built one (but haven't finished it), i think they might be worth it.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
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#26
Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:...Have you tried Smokey Valley? ....
No I did not try it. I did think about getting an undecorated Athearn with MP style shell and paint it in UP colors. I do not really trust my airbrush skill to end up with a model worth the cost. Same applies to a possible Smokey Valley kit.
I am going a two step approach
a. Put a P1K shell on an Athearn (Conrail) drive. Did that and it works as expected
b. Get an Athearn UP GP15 in May with the wrong filters and try to fix the filters. I have the parts already at home and have to do some paint patch job.
That approach will end up in any case with two GP15 to be used on a future north east layout.

The Athearn shell and drive is in all aspects superior to the P1K. However the P1K has a very good price performance ratio. The P1K drive will be fine with you if you like most of the RTR drives and did never fall in deep love with Atlas drives. The P1K shell will be sufficient if you like Trainman shells without grab irons etc.
Reinhard
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#27
Thanks for the help on the comparison between the Athearn and Proto GP-15's. the one i have now is in NS and it is running pretty good so far . however my plan though is in the near future is to get another get one in Conrail . if i do i'll get the Athearn.


Todd
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#28
C&NW GP15-1 # 4416, was my first serious diesel kitbash. This one is from about 8 years ago.
   
   
   
If I remember correctly, it was built on an Athearn GP38-2 frame with a heavily modified 38-2 body shell, cannon doors, and brass castings. One of those castings can be seen in the first picture, on the rear truck, back wheel, the train control shoe.
When the SD60's came out, they weren't equipped with that shoe, so usually a GP15 was included in the consist to provide train control.The "Tunnel Motor" parts came from Athearn SD40-2T bodies. All the "extra louvers" were fashioned from plastic "window shutter castings".
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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#29
Sumpter250 Wrote:C&NW GP15-1 # 4416, was my first serious diesel kitbash. ....
You did it very successful. The engine looks good!
Reinhard
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#30
Smokey Valley shell kits are the cheapest possible option. they're cheaper than the P1Ks, even if you buy cannon parts to replace the odd ball ends and cab.

if the P1k Shell works, thats fine, but in the future, it may be worth it to recover a couple MoPac GP15 smokey valley shell kits, and then just use the handrail sets and things from Athearn. I can understand you when it comes to painting though, that is a pain.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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