Transformation: GP39-2 From Shiny Brass to Grimy Green

[P5se Camelback]

8-)

[P5se Camelback]

This Global Warming/Climate Change crap is just that … bovine excrement!

Plenty of light, the sun shines brightly, nary a cloud in the sky … and a 20-25 knot breeze … directly into the open garage door, bringing all the dust from the neighborhood right in the door!

BUMMER!

So, donning a twin stage/double element respirator under which I’m breathing through a nasal cannula pumping out 3 liters/minute O2, I stirred the paint in a few jars, grabbed a "00" Windsor-Newton Series Seven red sable brush, a "0000" spotter and my Optivisor and had some fun with the appointments of the cab interior …


So it smells a bit odd in here right now ... the wonderful odors of dinner cooking will soon overpower that ... won't they?

I must say that I'm seriously considering a handlectomy on the train brake lever ... It's a bit on the clunky side! The poor LPB working as the engineer would need both hands to get a grip on that thing!

Tonight I’ll clean out the gears and gear towers of all the old lubrication, apply fresh Atlas #190 Gear Lube, re-assemble the Chassis and running gear and let it sit on the new Bachrus Saddles for an hour or so, varying the speed every 15 minutes or so to ensure that gears get to know each other and become intimately friendly. Once I’m certain that all is copasetic, it’ll be time to embark on my first decoder install hock:

[P5se Camelback]

OOPS!!!!

As I sat at the breakfast table, Tsunami Instruction Sheet in one hand, coffee mug in the other, listening to the newly lubricated and reassembled chassis rolling off the scale miles on the running stand saddles, and reading intently about decoder installation, an interesting concept just jumped right off the page and squished against my dirty eyeglasses ...

LIGHTS & LIGHTING!!

Oh, yeah, I'm awake now ...


I have a little bit of homework to do before I can go much further, I guess. All this LED lighting stuff ... it's all totally new to me ... I just don't have a clue!

Different LED types, different sizes, different colors, different values for in-line resistors ... it's all so confusing, especially for a non-electronics brain ... I will admit to be being rather apprehensive about what transpires from this point forth!

So ... time to hit the books ...

... STUDY TIME!

[rrinker]

Two basic things about LEDs: One, they ALWAYS need resistors.
Two: the resistors may already be on the decoder (check the instructions), if not, then for the various shades of 'white' LEDs you pretty much can;t go wrong with a 1K resistor. For EACH LED. There's all sorts of crazy calculations you do if you really want to, but every commonly avaialble white LED I've seen (outside of specialty ones you cna get from the fancy electronics suppliers - like those super-power ones used for floodlights and stuff) has almost exactly the same voltage drop and current limit, and when plugged into the formulas the result is ALWAYS around 1K
Ok, there's a third point - the current rating for an LED is the MAXIMUM it can take without greatly shortening the life. How much shorter depends on hw far you exceed the limit. So should you bothe to go through the calculations, do NOT plug in the current rating from the LED spec sheet, that will leave you with zero headroom or, if you use just basic 10% tolerance resistors, actually over the limit.

--Randy

[P5se Camelback]

Thanks for the insight, Randy! I appreciate it!

Let me start by saying that I'm not the sharpest probe in the electrical tool box! It took me years to figure out how to wire my layout without ending up with a short circuit every time I threw a turnout! I finally arrived at a solution using electrically isolated frogs and having adjacent points and stock rails be the same polarity. Seems like that's now the preferred way to wire for DCC, so my wiring from over twenty years ago will apparently be just fine today! At least that's what I'm lead to believe.

Anyway, I'm interested in installing headlamps in both ends of the locomotive, as well as working marker/classification lamps in each end, and maybe a "dim bulb*" in the cab (with the cab detailed with the seats and control stand, I am going to put a crew of LPB's in there.) The brass shell has the appropriate sized holes in it for each type of lamp.

I purchased some 3mm white and 3mm warm white LED's, each with 1K ohm resistors. I got them with the idea of using them for headlamps. I'm guessing they must be "turned down" to fit into the headlamp openings in the shell. Not having access to a mini lathe, I'm not totally sure how to approach this task. Any suggestions? Ideas on how to light the number boards would also be helpful

This diesel stuff is beginning to be almost like work! Steam engines all of a sudden seem a lot less involved ... at least they were before the advent of DCC!

I also have purchased a strip of SMD 0603 LED's which I was assuming I could affix behind the holes for the classification lights with some "canopy cement." I am aware that they would also require at least a 1K ohm resistor.

The whole lighting thing has brought my project to a grinding halt!

* Yeah, I know, the "dim bulb" is typing out this sorry post!

[nachoman]

I tried "turning down" an LED once, and afterwards it no longer worked. Perhaps some LEDs are more rugged than others, but I think the vibration of my file was enough to cause it to fail. If you go this route, go slow, and be prepared to have to do it again. The other thing about LEDs, is that many don't dim very easily. It seems they are either on or off - especially the white ones. Perhaps someone else can "enlighten" (pun intended) us here.

[faraway]

...The other thing about LEDs, is that many don't dim very easily.....

That is correct. The emitted light is not linear reduced as your reduce the current and it does not dim the intensity of the light only. It does change the color of the light too. Both attributes of LED make them not so simple to be dimmed. You need to make some/many test cases until you find a LED that dims fine in your environment (engine, decoder etc.).

[Steamtrains]

I gotta agree...Those trucks are AWESOME..!! That paint color is a standard Floquil color, or your "special" mix..??
That cab interior is not shabby either...
Can't wait for the "crowning glory" on the body shell....

[P5se Camelback]

Gus,
The paint on the trucks is a custom mix ... all Floquil. Base coat is Grimy Black. The "money" color coat is fogged on over that. The mixture (labelled "Wheel Brown") is Grimy Black and Roof Brown with some Rust and a smidge of Rail Brown, thinned about 40/60 with lacquer thinner ... just right for fogging (from above.) A light fogging of Grimy Black from below follows.

After full assembly, a light fogging from below with Mud and a very light one from above with Grime should finish the whole thing off ... we shall see. The final few touches are applied with a #0000 spotter using pure Rust and Grimy Black. As I recall, I used to fog a super light coat of Grimy Black over all the running gear and couplers, etc. to "blend." (I have a collection of special masks that I cut from 3x5 and 5x7 index cards that I use in conjuction with some of the final fogging.) I used to do the same deal on bodies with the main body color (often lightened an RCH with a drop or two of Primer or SP Lettering gray and a drop of Reefer White) to blend decals and weathering, with a fogging of Grimy Black down the center line of the roof to "top it off." Remember, I have always modeled steam in the thirties. This "modern" diesel stuff is all new to me ... I'm testing the water (and taking copious notes) as I go this time around!

I like painting (atomizing pigment ) and have often been accused of getting carried away with the number of colors I use and the number of over-spray coats ... but, hey ... whatever seems to work!

Life is not mono-chromatic!

[I have been using a 1st generation Badger 200 (single action) airbrush. Over the years, I have developed a unique two-handed approach to its operation, allowing me to vary the amount of pigment coming from the nozzle, much as when I use my double-action Paasche VL ...

... but I'm really comfortable getting "down and dirty the two handed way" when I really get into painting stuff!]

[e-paw]

Can you describe your 2 handed approach in a little detail, you peaked my curiosity with your small print.

[rrinker]

When turning down LEDs you have to make sure not to disturb the metal leads or, if you hold it up to the light and look in, you'll see a little cat whisker wire running from one lead over the top of the other - disturb that and the LED is kaput. However, you also probably don;t have to turn the LED down - put an MV lense, they have a million of them, surely one is the proper style and size for the opening, and put the LED behind the lens. Paint the back and sides of the LED flat black to keep the light from leaking out. Class lights and ditch lights probably need surface mount LEDs.
Some decoders 'dim' LEDs better than others. NCE motor decoders handle LEDs for effects very nicely. TCS is absolutely the best, in addition to what is mentioned on the basic installation pamphlet you get witht he decoder, there are a whoel raft of other settings to configure the 'on' and 'off' times for various effects. That's how decoders dim LEDs - they turn them on and off very fast, the more 'off' the dimmer it appears. For a cab light, try 2K instead of 1K, it will still be too bright without some ability to set the function to an always 'dim' setting. You can tone it down with some paint or markers, perhaps even cover the main light emitting area so the only light would be what difuses out the sides.

--Randy

[P5se Camelback]

The Two-Handed Technique is nothing spectacular ... and describing what I do will probably sound simplistic ... but it is.

I get the subject set up (I use all manner of "devices" to do that - clothes pins - both "as purchased" and re-engineered / reverse assembled, paper towel tubes, toilet paper rolls, pieces of 1x2 and 1x3, re-folded disposable aluminum trays, etc.) and while applying paint with the brush in my right hand, I reach across the rear of the brush with my left hand and tweek the needle in or out as necessary. I looks awkward and I suppose it is ... I just did it out of frustration one time about twenty years ago and have been using the technique as needed ever since.

I don't even really think about it -- just now, to describe what I do was more thinking about it than I've probably done since the first time I reached across to stop down the amount of paint being applied.

:mrgreen:

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Ah, cool thread! I do have to ask though, how necessary is the "baking" of the paint?

As i understand it, a brand new Brass Locomotive comes out of the factory with clear base coat of paint. In fact, i know my E44As did before i painted them. so far, my paint has been just fine (it went on smooth, and hasn't chipped off).

Also, let me know exactly how you do the lighting. I not only have E44s to light, i have several MU commuter cars that need the lights, and i'm still so confused on how to get it done. I'm thinking those Nano LEDs from N-gineerring will be the best route for the small lights.

[P5se Camelback]

The baking bit is just something that I started doing back in the mid-seventies. I was having a problem with Floquil (as well as the original Scalecoat) rubbing off the brass anywhere the locomotive was touched where there were sharp edges or raised detail ... like the tops of handrail stanchions (still a problem without baking!)

I went through all kinds of gyrations in an effort to beat the problem. I ended up in some cases stripping the clear lacquer off the brass, soaking the brass bodies in vinegar (to give a slight etch), washing in mild soap and very hot water, air drying (sometimes force-drying with a hair dryer if in a hurry,) shooting primer, baking, shooting main color, baking and then any and all masking and painting, followed by Dullcoat and another bake session. That solved the rubbing off problem, but the extra steps and time effectively had me paying the customers to paint their engines! But no one ever complained that the paint rubbed off! (And I had plenty of repeat business.)

I didn't do the vinegar deal this time, but I did go through the other steps. It's a whole bunch like work! But I just don't like "touching up" ... the spot where you touch the surface with a paint brush always has a different texture (often a slightly raised area where the paint is a couple thousanths thicker) that I can see ... and it bothers me!


On the LED front, I have PM'd "MGWSY" (Mark G.) re: the LED's and techniques that he used when he did the lighting in his beautiful diesels (I think it was back in September ... can't remember ...) and he requested photos of the interior of the OMI GP39-2 shell prior to commenting. I took some photos this afternoon and will be dragging out the dial face calipers to try to get the measurements of those little round openings. I'll be emailing the whole brace of photos to him this evening and I'll then I'll just have to wait to hear his suggestions and recomendations.

I have an idea that I'll probably be using some SMD 0603 LEDs, glued in behind the Classification Marker Lights with some "canopy cement." That is, If I can see well enough under the Optivisor's #7 plate to solder a pair of "magnet wires" onto the pads of those teensy little buggers!

I'm determined to have this be the best painted, best detailed, best lit, most prototypically weathered (as per a photo of the same numbered unit) that I've ever done. Of course, it will also be the first locomotive that I have with a decoder and a speaker ... so it will have to operate and sound absolutely awesomely, as well!

I am now officially obsessed!! This thing has taken over my every waking hour!

[tomustang]

Aren't the 0603 LEDs bluish? You have to watch that with LEDS since they won't resemble prototype lighting well.