Asphalt Parking Lot
#46
Thanks for the walk through Gary, I've got a lot of road to create for my Miami layout, (which isn't on here yet) I wasn't keen on what Mr Mindheim had done as it seemed too perfect especially for what I'm modelling and the sandpaper route wasn't an option due to size of the pieces I can get.

Just one question to clear things up for myself all the lines and scrapes on the finished lot is down to the original sandpaper/steel wool and scraping and nothing to do with brush strokes right?

Regards
Dave
My Miami NW 22nd St layout and modelling blog http://dlmr.wordpress.com/ Please come by and leave a comment.
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#47
Hey Dave, welcome to Big Blue!

On your question, I would say the roughened up plastic surface is about 85% responsible for the way the washes go on. Individual brush strokes aren't that important, although they can play a role in putting more wash "here" and less wash "there."

Often, when first throwing on a wash, I will see that it is too strong, and I will dip the brush in water and dilute the paint even more, spreading it over the plastic. Sometimes I will brush plain water over the surface, then pick up a brush of wash, and splatter it on, letting it spread in the previously applied water, then using the brush to blend it around.

I use a 1" wide brush, and wash the colors around as I see fit. it is best to use too thin of a wash then too strong. You can always do multiple passes, of course, letting them dry in between. The hair dryer can speed that up. Also, do the Krylon Flat or matte finish every third coat or so, and let it dry for 20 or 30 minutes before doing more wash. The krylon coat actually helps the next wash be a little "beady" which helps with the "speckled" look like real asphalt.

Important to aim for color variation - and if you perceive too much variation, that is when the powders help blend things together. Also, the dark streaks in the middle of the lanes are best done with powder, although they can be done with a wash. I put the powders on dry, and with the parking lot surface dry too. After that, another coat of krylon, and then on to the stripes.

You could also use dullcote, and I actually prefer dullcote, but the itty bitty cans are too danged expensive.

In all, you really can't mess this up. Just keep playing til you like what you have. To be honest, on the parking lot in question, I had originally put the stripes out in the middle on an angle, but didn't like it. So, I took sandpaper and sanded it off, and started over.... more washes and powders and krylon, then the stripes. And if the stripes come out too bright, powder can be used to tone them down.
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#48
SP1 Wrote:The last few posts would make a good tutorial for the Academy Section.

Thank you Sir! Smile
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#49
Another note, I haven't tried using windex or alcohol in the wash to break the surface tension. Would be an interesting experiment to see how that would work.
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#50
Just caught this build Gary. very cool. very believable. Cheers
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
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#51
Very informative reply Gary thanks I'll give it a try.
Dave
My Miami NW 22nd St layout and modelling blog http://dlmr.wordpress.com/ Please come by and leave a comment.
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#52
Hey Gary, for that fine dirt in front of the dumpster, have you ever considered Terarium (for lizards and reptiles) sand? It's very fine, almost powder. It is very light colored, but of course, you could darken it with weathering powders and the like.
Tom Carter
Railroad Training Services
Railroad Trainers & Consultants
Stockton, CA
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#53
Tom, thanks for that tip. I'll check that out. You're right, the dirt needs to be extremely fine.
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#54
It comes in a bag about the size of 2 Woodland Scenics ballast bags, so it's not a huge bag that you'd never use up.
Tom Carter
Railroad Training Services
Railroad Trainers & Consultants
Stockton, CA
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#55
Gary, this is amazing and very well written and photographed. I agree that this should go into the Academy.

Any tips on applying this to other scales, especially N-scale? I have a few places I'd like to try this on. I'm assuming using finer grits of sandpaper and not being as aggressive with the cracks and such would work?

This forum is at least ten times more useful than having a magazine subscription. Big Grin
Marc

Bar Extension - 5' x 2.5' N-scale layout plus two decks of shelf layout
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#56
NGN, I think you could do that, finer grit sandpaper and less aggression with the knife. Give it a try on some scrap plastic to see how it turns out. If you do it, post the results here! Smile
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#57
Gary....AMAZING work! Great attention to detail with an artist's eye! Worship
Steve
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#58
Great modeling, but even better - great tutorial !

Smile,
Stein
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#59
dave_long Wrote:Thanks for the walk through Gary, I've got a lot of road to create for my Miami layout, (which isn't on here yet) I wasn't keen on what Mr Mindheim had done as it seemed too perfect especially for what I'm modelling and the sandpaper route wasn't an option due to size of the pieces I can get.

Just one question to clear things up for myself all the lines and scrapes on the finished lot is down to the original sandpaper/steel wool and scraping and nothing to do with brush strokes right?

Regards
Dave

Gary,

Nice job on the lot. I don't think that you need to pay too much attention to brush strokes only because if the lot has had any type of asphalt sealer placed over it, it was most likely done with a spray and sometimes a squeegee and you will see push/pull marks in the black top surface due to spreading this material over the surface. I think you have captured the true look.

Larry
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#60
Steve, Stein, Larry, thanks for visiting the thread, and thanks for the comments. The results of all this have me quite motivated to get some things accomplished on the layout. Have to teach a class on Saturday morning, but after that, it will be full speed ahead!
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