CPR Engine House

[tetters]

That's not a bad idea Russ. I'll have to think about it, however it may give me the look I'm going for.

On with the show.

I started cutting and pasting the siding onto the long wall with the six windows in it. I had been thinking about how to best handle the task of building the windows into the model with the idea that I could pre assemble the frame and trim, paint it first, then insert them into the openings.

So, after cutting a number of pieces for the siding and gluing them in place, a very tedious and time consuming process, I decided I'd give my window idea a shot. I left the siding pieces deliberately long. I didn't want to get caught up in the process of lining up the end when once the glue had dried I could simply trim the excess from the window openings and edges...



First I started by building a card stock fram around the Grandt Line Roundhouse Windows I'd picked up some time ago. I used CA to glue the card stock to the plastic window.



I included a window sill at the bottom which I measured slightly larger then the three pieces for the frame. This way it protrude a little bit from the wall when all the trim etc... was applied. The 6" trim pieces were attached with more yellow glue.



A quick test fit, and I think to myself, "Not too shabby... only nine more left to do!"

[faraway]

That looks great. A window with a real window frame. A new level of detail!

[P5se Camelback]

WOW!

Fantastic stuff, Tetters!

It's been so long since the fifties,
when cardstock was still considered a viable material for scratch-building
(not that it isn't still!)
that I had totally forgotten about its versatility!

Nice work, Big Guy!

The early Model Railroader issues that I have recently acquired
are full of articles on scratch-building with cardstock gleaned from cereal boxes
and and details like using thread for window muntins and mullions.

[tetters]

Well... its been awhile since I've had anything to update this thread with.

However, I've begun to get things back on track recently. I've scrapped the idea of using card stock. After applying the card stock siding the walls themselves warped.... a lot. The wet glue and the subsequent drying of said glue was more then likely the cause. On mush smaller buildings, I can see how this wouldn't exaggerate itself too much but on this particular build when the wall is one continuous panel it really bothered me. Trying to straighten them back into shape did not wield satisfactory results either, so I had to go back to the drawing board and look for alternatives. I had thought about styrene and almost went that route, however decided I would use wood instead. I ordered a couple basswood sheets from Black Bear Construction "O Scale 4.5" Boards" which gave me siding of about 8" wide HO scale wide and restarted the build. I am forgoing the card stock completely and will be using strip wood for the rest of the build from here on in. Last night I completed building the window frames and trim and cut all the openings in the sheets for the doors and windows in the sheet wood. I also got started on the 1/4" plywood base to mount the model onto and built up a "concrete" foundation out of scale lumber which was painted primer gray to get it started. Track is in and painted for the Engine House as well.

A short list of things for me to do this week to stay on schedule for this build;

1) Cut and "build" 2x6 framing for the inside walls.... no small feat. I'll try and get the 90' wall done tonight.
2) Re-build new thinner doors for Engine house. The old ones measured about a foot thick!
3) Cut out the pit openings for the two locomotive tracks.
4) Finish wood planking around the locomotive tracks.
5) Put in cinder "floor" for the engine house interior. (trying some Scenic Express - Light Cinder mix for this)

Long range goals. After the above has been completed.

1) Cut and frame roof panels. Roof is to be removable as I'll be lighting the interior with overhead mini lamps. So I've decided to build it in two sections as opposed to one and open it in the middle... you'll see what I'm talking about soon, I hope.)
2) Once all the walls and roof sections are completed... I'll start priming and painting. Final assembly of the Engine House will happen after I've done most of the paint and prep work. At the speed I'm working, I estimate it will be another month before I'm ready to put it all together.

I'd like to have this and a couple of other important projects done before the Anniversary Car arrives on my door step. As it stands the layout is a mess and I want to have my layout tip top for the arrival of the car which is fast approaching at the speed I am moving.

I'll post up some pics tonight after I get some of the interior framing details done.

[tetters]

As promised pics.

Some windows with their framing and trim completed

[album]3786[/album]

Shots of the exterior "South" wall. The kinda sad part about all this is that unless you crane your head over the layout to look down the the track length wise this exterior side will go largely unnoticed.

[album]3783[/album]

[album]3784[/album]

[album]3785[/album]

However, I'm hoping that the interior view will more then make up for that situation...

[album]3787[/album]

[album]3788[/album]

Cutting and gluing all those 2 by 6's took most of my evening. About 4 hours. However, at least I can say that the hardest most tedious interior wall is done!

I'll get to the two back walls in the days ahead.

[mountaingoatgreg]

Tetters,

I was wondering how I missed your thread, then I realized the space between posts and did not feel so bad.

I really like the look of the wood over the cardstock, I found the same problem with cardstock going all willy nilly when glue is applied. I also think that wood represents, well wood a lot better then cardboard. I also am inpressed with your interior wall detail and the great windows you have created. I look forward to your progress and keep up the great work!!!

[tetters]

A little more progress over the last couple of nights.

I finished all the framing on the interior walls...although I am contemplating putting a row of blocking in between the studs at about the half way mark. The 2 x 6 wall studs are 16 scale feet high and typically I've seen blocking nailed perpendicular to studs in wood framed construction on walls a less taller. So I may add the blocking tomorrow night.

I did a test fit on the foundation or base. I'm feeling pretty good about this so far and now its actually starting to look like something!

[album]3796[/album]

[album]3795[/album]

You'll have to excuse the hands. Until I do the final assembly the walls don't quite stay together. I've decided on one more detail to correct at this point as I'll remove the track inside the engine house in order to eliminate the individual ties. It seemed like a good idea at the time, however I've come up with a better idea which will make life easier for me.

That's all for tonight. Thanks for looking.

[tetters]

Well I redid the track work for the engine bays and completed the 3 x 12 platforms around them. I must say it looks a lot better then the previous attempt. (sorry no pics.. :? )

I also applied the cinders to the floor and affixed it in place ala whetting agent and 50/50 water glue ballasting technique. It took me three applications of the process to get the cinders in and to get the floor reasonably level. I found myself troweling the saturated cinders with the end of a small 6" ruler like a spatula to get the floor as smooth as possible but still give it that slightly textured look. I'm waiting for it to dry completely... perhaps another day or two before I do any work on the "floor". Some repairs are required as the ballasting technique did not go well with a couple of the short planks for the engine bay platforms. However an added bonus is that the application of the cinders produced a slightly weathered look to the planks. (again no pics... :? )

However, I did start on the uprights and the bracing to support the roof structure.

[album]3797[/album]

I think I might actually be able to start putting the first few coats of paint on the walls and windows. I also will begin some permanent assembly of the Structure before I turn my attention to the detachable roof structure.

[mountaingoatgreg]

Tetters,

Looking good on your progress!!

I agree you need some blocking for your wall studs also are you using a jig for the uprights and bracing?
Please post more pictures of your progress when you get a chance.

P.S. Are those beer bottles in the background?

[tetters]

Tetters,

Looking good on your progress!!

I agree you need some blocking for your wall studs also are you using a jig for the uprights and bracing?
Please post more pictures of your progress when you get a chance.

P.S. Are those beer bottles in the background?

Thanks Greg!

Blocking for the walls it is. I believe that I will stagger them along a center line though just so it doesn't look like one solid 2x6 running through the walls.

I didn't/don't plan on using a jig. For the uprights I just used a small thin beamed square to keep the 12x12 post square to the top beam. I measured and centered predrilled holes for the post and the top beam and inserted some .025 music wire to help support the joint and to keep it centered. I like to have some form of mechanical support when I build stuff instead of just relying on the CA to hold it all together.

To build these I simply placed the top beam upside down, with the music wire in the centered predrilled hole, put a drop of thick CA on the top of the 12x12 post also predrilled with a centered hole then then inserted the music wire into the post. I then placed the thin beam square on "bottom" of the top brace and against the pole and kept it centered and square until the CA bonded...about 20 seconds. Bracing was just cut to 8 ft lengths as per the drawings and then a 45 degree cut was made on each end. A drop of CA was applied on each end and then I just eyeballed them in place.

...and yes those are beer cans in the back ground. I picked up a Local Micro Brewery Tasters Pack last year sometime ago. Thought I'd try out some of the local stuff. Right now they represent the site location for my brewery. Sadly the Devil's Pale Ale was not to my liking.

[Steve]

Beautiful work Tetters!
As usual, very inspiring ...those windows alone are worth the price of admission
Looking forward to seeing more

[Gary S]

Tetters, I'm at a loss. I have no idea how I could have missed this thread. It is as if Big Blue was playing tricks on me. :?

I must say that the walls and windows are perfect. Love the way it is all coming together, love the care and craftemanship, and looking forward to following along. A big A+ from me!

[tetters]

Never did get to painting anything last night, allergies are bothering me something fierce. So I just played around a little last night with the build. Put the posts in the footings, tried to square it up a bit and parked a loco in the barn just to get a sense of scale. Looks pretty gosh darn cozy to me. I like the look of the cinders floor, the texture, however feel like it needs something, the photo does not do it justice really. The colour might be a bit too dark so maybe a grey wash or something to highlight it some more? Thoughts? I'm sure once I start painting and detailing the interior it will set off the whole effect.

I have to finish the roof purlin supports that run length wise on top of the posts and bracket supports, bit will cut those to shape once I've painted and assembled the basic walls.

Yep, time to fire up the air brush and have at 'er!

[album]3801[/album]

[mountaingoatgreg]

Tetters,

I would not make any drastic changes to the floor as I think when you age and weather the interior walls it will better match the floor. Once you have the walls aged if it is to dark maybe using a lighter gray on the floor. Also after you hand paint the 300 detail parts for the interior of your enginehouse I think that will help the overall look and feel.

What type of interior lighting do you plan on using??

[tetters]

I forgot to thank Steve and Gary for their comments in my last post. Thank you gents, it means a lot.

Hi Greg. You're right, once I paint and "weather" the interior walls It will most likely tone down the stark contrast between the bare wood and the cinders floor. As discussed previously, I also plan on painting the lower 3 - 4 feet of the wall a flat black and the remaining upper portion a faded white.

Speaking of Shop Equipment. One thing that occured to me is that I'd like to add some electrical outlets and wires to the walls before I paint. Just some simple small styrene boxes to suggest the outlets and to run some magnet wire to simulate the wiring. I'll make a fuse box and some master switches along the back wall next to the door. Stuff that will be hard to add after assembly of the walls.

For lighting I was planning on using some incandescent blubs. I could actually use some help on that part because electrical stuff is not my forte. I was thinking of running a row of 4 blubs along sides of each bay instead of a single row over top of the bay as in my minds eye it wouldn't make sense to hang the lights where the loco would cast an enormous shadow over the entire shop floor.

So about 8 bulbs per bay. I was thinking some 1.5 grain of wheat bulbs but thought maybe they would be too small? Like I said some suggestions would be good.