Northwest 22nd St, Miami

[dave_long]

Thanks Larry
I think I'd heard of them but not seen the website. There may be the odd spot for a palm, I hope so anyway. However its another one of those things being in the UK having to get so many orders shipped from the US is start to cost a little I've had 3 this week, I've been trying to find a OHS ( online hobby store ) that has everything I need but its proving fruitless. There are a few places over here that sell palms, but yet to find a convincing Floridian palm ( I know there are plenty non native species but its just one of those modelling things that needs a setting ).

Dave

[fast car]

Dave,

They're definately not cheap. Three or four in a 20' section would be all I would want to invest. All I want to do is to pin the location. I will mix them in with other trees native to south Florida

Larry

[shortliner]

Dave - for UK supplier try SiSTtrees <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://themodeltreeshop.co.uk/acatalog/index.html">http://themodeltreeshop.co.uk/acatalog/index.html</a><!-- m -->

[dave_long]

Thanks Jack, I think the Sist ones were the ones I'd got at the back of my mind for when the time came. I did follow the rmweb thread on palms.
I'd probably only need 2 at the most anyway.

Thanks guys.

Just a small update

Since I'm in a little of a hurry now the photos at step by step notes I was planning have had to take a back seat, so I'm just getting on with things at the moment and anyway the photos wouldn't be all that interesting yet.
Some of the items I'm getting shipped across the pond are Sergent engineering couplers. I got fed up trying out neo magnets and didn't want kadee magnets and I like the way the sergent couplers work, I'm sure you'll tell me now that I'm mad.
Next thing being shipped are bullfrog manual turnout controls, I know its easy to make your own version but I like the look of them and their simple.

[Russ Bellinis]

I don't think your mad. I'm planning to use Sergents on my LAJ switching layout.

[jonte]

Hi Dave

Glad to hear your continuing to make steady progress. Presently, I don't seem to be getting any where, although I'm hoping by tomorrow evening that will change but won't hold my breath.

Regarding the sergents,may I ask why you've chosen them? It's just that I've used the under track Kadee magnets with their couplings but already they're beginning to grate.
I don't know if you saw the videos I created on youtube, but one of the two on the subject of 'running round' , shows the boxcar being drawn away from the loco by the magnet as it approaches it. I know you can fit pieces of foam to drag against the axles, however, I should prefer my stock to run as freely as possible.
Having watched the video of the sergents in action, I'm satisfied that it provides the freedom to uncouple at will with more prototypical couplings to boot. However, I suppose the pay off is in the loss of automatic coupling that Kadees provide.

I'd be interested to read your take on this - but don't interrupt your valuable modelling time to answer my query just yet - I would much prefer to see your progress on the blog.

Best wishes,

Jon

[dave_long]

Hi Dave


Having watched the video of the sergents in action, I'm satisfied that it provides the freedom to uncouple at will with more prototypical couplings to boot. However, I suppose the pay off is in the loss of automatic coupling that Kadees provide.

I'd be interested to read your take on this - but don't interrupt your valuable modelling time to answer my query just yet - I would much prefer to see your progress on the blog.

Best wishes,

Jon

Hi Jon, Dont worry about taking up my time I'm just off nights so still unable to sleep model function etc There is no loss of auto coupling, just couple as you would a kadee or other similar brands. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdECmydu68M They will also uncouple on curves something which the kadee style will not do. You can manually uncouple kadees no problem with the Rix tool or a bamboo skewer but you really need to have a good view of the couplers which is what I wont have on my layout, all you need to do is pop the magnet stick between the cars and you should be able to uncouple well without having to eyeball it.

Dave

[jonte]

[/quote]

Hi Jon, Dont worry about taking up my time I'm just off nights .........

Dave[/quote]

Nights, hey? You have my deepest sympathies Dave :cry:

Very well put, Dave, thank you - you've sold them to me

Incidentally, I've been reading on another member's page that there's some debate about ill planning leading to frustration and ultimately wasted time and funds. Quite right too.
However, as probably the biggest offender in my short time here, I must say that for me it's all part of the learning curve e.g. I've already discovered that whilst they've given sterling service to many fellow modellers over the years, unfortunately, Kadees and Peco products simply aren't for me for reasons given - something I wouldn't have known if I hadn't dipped my toe in the water by getting stuck in
Incidentally, at the risk of going off at a tangent, may I say that I wrote to Peco regarding my recent disappointment with Code 75, who confirmed that while there are many satisfied railroaders that have used their products for many years and continue to do so, they agree that a better option would be the NMRA standards Code 83 range. However, on a cautionary note, they admitted that they couldn't guarantee that wheel drop would be totally eliminated with some of the finer RP25s. My heart sank at this point and any immediate thoughts of placing an order were put on hold. Nevertheless, I thank them for their honesty and deep down I believe that Code 83 is a viable option. However, in light of the number of disappointments experienced to date, I'm simply not prepared to jump headlong into plumping for a hundred quid's worth of gear, without exploring other avenues first (more of which hopefully later). While one should never say never, I doubt I'll go with Peco - I say this not because of possible inconsistencies their track might have with the wheels of my stock, but quite simply because I feel the need to use a finer rail which is more conducive to industrial track. I know it's a case of priorities and smooth running is my main objective, however, quite frankly I'd be disappointed to lose that lighter rail look that I'm searching for.
So, as you can see Dave, I am learning as I go along, but as in life, unfortunately I always have to learn the hard way :cry:

Let's hope this drivel gets you off to sleep

Bestest,

Jon.

[dave_long]

The problems that peco track cause are due to compensations needed for running over scale wheels through larger than scale flangeways. If we were talking about UK 4mm I would be bantering on about P4 however, if you've made the decision to stay clear of Peco then your going to have to look at Micro engineering or Shinohara those are the ones easy to source in the UK, well I say that I'm still waiting for my ME turnouts.

My suggestion to you Jon now would be try Shinohara track and turnouts. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/index.html You've got a choice of code 100/83 and 70. The code 83 is made for Walthers and is probably the better version as its newer and DCC friendly. However the code 70 is still good I've actually placed an order for 2 turnouts today. I've read that the check rails actually work which should mean that the wheels wont drop ( thats the theory ) I'll let you know later in the week when they arrive.

If you want the code 70 the turnouts will need modifying slightly to work better on dcc and if you look here http://www.proto87stores.com/p87stores/shinstmp.htm and ignore changing the frog to P87 then it gives you a nice upgrade to the turnout switch area.

Dave

[jonte]

The problems that peco track cause are due to compensations needed for running over scale wheels through larger than scale flangeways. If we were talking about UK 4mm I would be bantering on about P4 however, if you've made the decision to stay clear of Peco then your going to have to look at Micro engineering or Shinohara those are the ones easy to source in the UK, well I say that I'm still waiting for my ME turnouts.

My suggestion to you Jon now would be try Shinohara track and turnouts. http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/index.html You've got a choice of code 100/83 and 70. The code 83 is made for Walthers and is probably the better version as its newer and DCC friendly. However the code 70 is still good I've actually placed an order for 2 turnouts today. I've read that the check rails actually work which should mean that the wheels wont drop ( thats the theory ) I'll let you know later in the week when they arrive.

If you want the code 70 the turnouts will need modifying slightly to work better on dcc and if you look here http://www.proto87stores.com/p87stores/shinstmp.htm and ignore changing the frog to P87 then it gives you a nice upgrade to the turnout switch area.

Dave

Dave, thank you, that's very kind.

Frankly, I doubt I'll ever get the hang of track 'fiddling' so if the Shinoharas do the business, I think I'll opt for them as they are - unless of course the upgrade really is as easy as made out. So please, let me know how they fare as and when they eventually arrive.

Jon

PS..........had a another go at building a scratchbuilt turnout today using the left over Peco 75 track and a vernier gauge............this time I genned up on the NMRA standards for wheels and track and downloaded a couple of templates for a No.6 turnout from both Proto 87 and Fast Tracks to aid the process - incidentally, Fast Tracks have kindly published their preferred measurements for Flange, Check and Gauge widths, so I decided to make mine to these. Needless to say, I still encountered wheel drop. I would add, though, that their preferred track width of 0.660" (a tad over 16.5 mm) in my opinion, doesn't help matters and if I EVER ventured there again, I'd built to the target measurement given in the NMRA tables. I probably won't which is why I'm grateful for your post.
Before I go, these RTRs caught my eye <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.proto87.com/super-fine-easy-ho-turnouts.html">http://www.proto87.com/super-fine-easy-ho-turnouts.html</a><!-- m -->, but at around 24 quid each (plus shipping of course) they're a tad expensive. Just depends how your 'experiments' go.

Jon

[dave_long]

I'll let you know. My ME turnouts are due to be shipped in May, I'll get them too but the Shinoharas will be on this layout.

I do know that Andy at proto87 knows about 00sf the bit I linked to earlier regarding narrowing the gauge to 16.2mm so you can narrow the flangeway to 1mm, although not official 00sf can be referred to as 00-superfine, so I have a feeling that this might be what you linked to although the gauge is not mentioned.

I've used everything from Peco code 100 to fully soldered, part soldered part plastic and glued plastic chairs full detail and little detail, its best not to get too caught up on trackwork as you can make anything look good with a little effort.


ps I'm on rmweb too have been for years my username is the same and I'm following the same threads as you at the moment, seems strange you refering to me on here in a post on there.

[jonte]

ps I'm on rmweb too have been for years my username is the same and I'm following the same threads as you at the moment, seems strange you refering to me on here in a post on there.

Your exquisite knowledge, sir, has left me indellibly marked......

Thanks also for the additional info.

Jon

[fast car]

Lance Mindheim, states below that sometimes ME turnouts for no apparent reason have dead spots. It doesn't appear to be non-repairable, but something you may want to address before you secure them to your layout. Just a thought.

Larry

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.lancemindheim.com/progress_photos.htm">http://www.lancemindheim.com/progress_photos.htm</a><!-- m -->

[dave_long]

I didn't know that thanks Larry. However ME were out of stock so as its going to a show in June I've had to use the shinoharas. Although I will still be getting MEs but that will be for another project now.
dave

[dave_long]

Anyway back to the layout,

I've started to scratchbuild the structures to go along the backscene, now my issue here is loading doors, I've not been able to get any decent images to measure I know there must be many. Are there any guidelines as to the size of loading doors that open out to freight cars. I've seen mentioned a few different sizes, but what is peoples opinions, what size would you go for an why?


The shinohara code 70 turnouts have arrived and they seem a slightly newer version to many I've seen on the web, although not DCC friendly atleast where the switch rails pivot the metal bar joining the 2 rails has been replaced with rail joiners, but the metal plate still exists at the actual switch, this will have to go and I'll need to reinforce the throw bar as the Bullfrog turnout throws seem to have a good kick to them. Apart from that and isolatinbg the frog they look the part. Jonte I'll have a trial run of stock through them later to see if there is any wheel drop. But you'll need to modify them yourself if you want to use them, 10 minutes with a soldering iron will be all it needs though and there are plenty of guides online.

Placed an order for some Boley fridge trucks from an ebay shop this week so hopefully they'll turn up in the next couple of weeks. Although I'm not looking forward to the customs bills heading my way thats the 4th order from the US and nothing has arrived yet. Can't wait for that bill to drop through the letterbox.

Rgds
Dave