Newbie - District 22 - Downtown L.A. (A table top railway)

[jonte]

I'm not sure that a covered walkway would be two stories tall. I think you should consider making it two separate buidings with a single level walkway between them.

Spoilsport

Jonte

[P5se Camelback]

I vote for ...

... follow your original plan!!!

[jonte]

I vote for ...

... follow your original plan!!!

Hi Bil and thanks for your support as always.

Just to clarify what you mean by original plan - I've changed it a couple of times, I know - do you mean just one rail into an arch i.e. end of siding only OR as per my sketch?

Sorry to have to ask but beginning to confuse myself now!

And thanks again Russ for your valuable input.

Best wishes,

Jonte.

[P5se Camelback]

By "original," I mean ...

One rail entrance through the left-most door, modified as necessary for clearance. The center arch contains the "people entrance" and the arch on the right a row of windows.

Of course, left can always be swapped for right (in this non-political instance) to fit the real estate and track orientation ...

... really, just my considered opinion ... but it's not my railroad ...

... it's yours!

[jonte]

By "original," I mean ...

One rail entrance through the left-most door, modified as necessary for clearance. The center arch contains the "people entrance" and the arch on the right a row of windows.

Of course, left can always be swapped for right (in this non-political instance) to fit the real estate and track orientation ...

... really, just my considered opinion ... but it's not my railroad ...

... it's yours!

Thanks for clarifying, Bil.

Your opinions count.........they help keep my feet on the ground

[jonte]

Dear All,

Following my recent disappointment with some scratchbuilt track and its Peco Code 75 replacement, and after subsequent consulatations with a couple of experienced UK forum members (thank you Dave Long and Jez), I have decided to opt for either Shinohara Code 70 or Peco Code 83.

Peco Code 83 is known to be more sympathetic to HO gauge wheelsets than its sibling 75, however, Code 70 is more appropriate for that industrial look I'm trying to create than the typically 'mainline' 83. Consideration has also been given to Proto 87 'Superfine' turnouts and Fast Tracks products, however, as my confidence has been somewhat knocked, I prefer to opt for the RTR stuff, if this layout is ever to progress!

Another factor has been cost, which has pretty much ruled out Fast Tracks for now, and lest I waste further money on unsuitable products, I've decided to 'back off a little' in attempt to stop my enthusiasm running away with me. One very good reason for this drawing of breath is that I await an update from Dave who has kindly offered to let me know the outcome of some provisionl tests with the Shinohara products..........when they eventually arrive.....although he's confident its imminent

Anyway, "what's the point of this post?" I may well here you ask, bearing in mind those of you who have dared....sorry.....'cared' to follow any of this half-baked nonsense to date.

Well, I couldn't quite kill my blind enthusiasm whilst sitting twiddling my thumbs, so, armed with some offcuts of Peco Code 75 rail, sheets of tables and dimensions downloaded from the NMRA site, a vernier gauge, a couple of track templates courtesy of Fast Tracks' site and the old adage 'nothing ventured.....' echoing about the grey matter, I set about producing this:

   

(apologies for the poor quality of this one)

   

You can see the first I built at the top of the photo; okay, but not as good as the second, which is the one with full 'ties'.

The process was much improved and made a whole lot easier, after I thought about using a gauge to steady the rail against while soldering. A couple of off cuts of aluminium from a door plate (0.047" thick, one thousandth of an inch less than the standard I'd been using - although NMRA states a target of 0.044" for flangeway) purchased for the purpose of producing those excellent 'Heath Robinson' manual turnout controls fabricated by Kurt, came in useful here.

Probably the most laborious part of the construction has been the fabrication of the ties. I couldn't source any wood of suitable proportions locally so ended up laminating a couple of thin sheets of veneer type material that I had lying around in order to match the height of the PCB strips. I almost ended up losing the will to live!

It's not finished yet and I've still to wire it electrically for further testing, however, early signs are good: the truck you see flies through undaunted and although my sole loco has yet to traverse under its own steam, there doesn't appear to be any resistance due to loss of gauge and, reassuringly, no apparent 'wheel drop'.

I shall conduct some tests tomorrow and get back to you - although, if I don't, you'll know that this has also gone pear shaped and I've taken up the far simpler past time of placing ships in bottles

Regards for now,

Jonte

[dave_long]

Jonte
I'd stick with that turnout if I were you that looks really good, unless you need lots and lots that would be better than the Shinoharas, if you can wait get the ME turnouts as the shinoharas need a lot of work, I've managed to get them done today but not without issues, I melted a few sleepers which I've since replaced with my own version and the sleeper height is slightly out compared to ME plain track but easily sorted.

Dave

[jonte]

Jonte
......... the shinoharas need a lot of work, I've managed to get them done today but not without issues....................
Dave

That's me out of the running then for Shinoharas, Dave; if your having difficulties...................

Thanks for the kind words of encouragement; I'm rather pleased with it too, but I shaln't cast a clout until proper testing is completed.

I hope it does work, after all this, as apart from the odd expletive and loss of hair, it'll be an achievement and give me a little more confidence. I'm also excited at the prospect of being able to slice bits out of the wooden sleepers to give them that careworn effect typical of industrial lines in the States.

Should this all go haywire like my last attempt, I think I'll take your advice and hang on for the ME track (unless of course I become impatient and opt for the Code 83 - Jez has a chieved faultless running with Harrington, although he's rather selective about his choice of stock).

Before I go, you rather hit the nail on the head when you made mention in your post about not wanting too many (turnouts). Frankly, although I'm pleased with my results so far, I can't see myself building any more than 3 currently, so, in light of this, I have decided to build a diorama style layout with its proscribed limited proportions - it'll also serve as a test bed for scenic developments before I take on something a little larger.

Therefore, if you could spare me a little time from your rather hectic schedule, would you mind jotting down a few ideas in the form of a trackplan - back of envelope will do fine ! I'm still basing it in LA and I'm going to keep the title of 'District 22' but I'm looking at something not too demanding

Perhaps something like this might give you a helping hand......

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I rather like the half buried ties and simple track arrangement of this industrial backwater. The pile of sand(?) to the left of the picture is reminiscent of the one built by Chris Nevard in the extension to his masterpiece 'Cement Quay' - base from foam tiles, covered in tile adhesive and sprinkled with sand. I've also been considering using Das clay to place in between and over the top of the ties, with a mixture of earth, ash and talc/grout mixed together and sprinkled around for ground cover. I also like the thought of electrostatic grass planted in hanging basket liner for weedy stuff - and as for that rickety old fence and simple telegraph poles hock: .
You get the idea, an uncrowded scene with a couple of corrugated buildings and one or two brick/concrete affairs to give a reason for the existence of the railway in the first place (NB I've already constructed a small traverser/fiddleyard for the layout).

Of course, Dave, all in your own time.

Has anybody else any thoughts on the subject?

As usual, all suggestions gratefully received.

Regards,

Jonte

[P5se Camelback]

I find laying track by hand and building turnouts when I get to them, and build them to whatever frog number it turns out to be to go where I want it to go to be a therapeutic endeavor ... I quite enjoy it ... it gives me great feelings of satisfaction when I watch a few cars snake smoothly through my turnout!

Sure, it takes a little longer than using track nails to bed a section of flex-track, but to me, I'm having more hobby fun for my buck, if you compare money spent vs. time spent.

And, I just like the way it looks!




So, if you like doing it, and it looks good and works well ... then, by all means, keep doing it!

[dave_long]

Great looking track biL. Jonte now your a modeller. If you can build that then you could modify a shinohara. Your idea sounds good and I'll have a play at work today its where i get my best ideas. Chris's cement quay is actually lain Rice plan.

[jonte]

.......... build them to whatever frog number it turns out to be to go where I want it to go ...........

Funnily enough, I can see the logic. I'll try and explain. The turnouts have been built to a #6 template - I've noticed that most contributors having been using this type for the small switching layouts so thought I'd follow suit. I 'guessed'.....yes, guessed! that this equates to a 1:6 'gradient(?), which to me means one unit up for every 6 units along. From this I built a simple jig from a spare piece of rai and steel rule, against which the rails of the frog were held with blu-tac to aid the soldering process. When I placed the frog or vee rail over the template...eureka!!....it fitted. The point of all this is that I now realise that I can build the same jig for #8, 10 or whatever; even to a bespoke angle as you describe, biL. Just shows, it does instill confidence.............

Your track is beautiful, and this the standard I'm aiming for. The ballast is most realistic displaying a variety of hues, typical of the real thing. I particularly like the sleepers: have you used powders to create tghat faded dusty look - although I sound as though I know what I'm talking about - I don't!!!!! - these are ideas I've read about here or in mags - if you wouldn't mind imparting, I'd like to 'borrow' your method

I notice you've opted for real 'spikes' - sorry, I'm not going that far (no patience) I shall opt for glued ties punctuated with the odd soldered PCB tie for strength (won't be many hence the desire to 'bury' the ties ).


I don't know about therapeutic though :evil:

Thanks for sharing, biL.

Bestest,

Jonte

[jonte]

..............If you can build that then you could modify a shinohara........

Such blind faith indeed, sir

Might be a little premature, Dave......let's see if it works electrically first

Thank you anyway. You're very kind.

Can't wait to see your the results of your scribblings.........if its anything like your own, I shall have plenty of fun

Jonte

[modelsof1900]

biL,

really, very good looking track. Are these code 55 rails for HO-scale?

[P5se Camelback]

Wow! Thanks for all the compliments, fellas!

The rail is RailCraft Code 70 ... I bought a couple hundred feet of it back in the seventies.

The ties ("sleepers," for Jonte) are Campbell "Profile" Ties. I use three or four shades of MinWax stains into which I submerge a nylon stocking "bag" of ties and let them soak for an hour or so, whereupon I spread them all out on old newspapers (which I get from my nextdoor neighbor - I don't need a daily paper - I read my news on-line). After a day or so of drying time, I scoop them all up and dump them in one of my yellow-painted M.O.W. 2 lb. coffee cans (with a plastic lid) that I've lettered "TIES" on the side. I use them "as I grab them" ... in whatever order they happen to present themselves.

I use a homemade jig to lay "correctly" spaced ties on a 1/4" stip of upside-down masking tape ...

Gluing down ties goes pretty quickly when you can press them onto the brushed-on white glue in 24" sections!

Then, it's just a matter of laying rail by sliding three three-point track gauges along (the middle one reversed from the outer two - it helps on curves,) at first spiking every fifth tie, four spikes into each tie. Then later, it's the "therapeutic filling-in" of all the ties in between that is a great task for when the mind is numb from a rough day at the office and I want to do something that takes no thought ... just watch it happen.

The ballast is a well-stirred mixture of several shades of Campbell ballast, kept in a few of my yellow-painted M.O.W. 1 lb. coffee cans (again, with plastic lids) that I've lettered "BALLAST" on the side and I "spoon" it out as needed. I use the usual diluted Elmers, eye-droppered on to "wet-water-prepped" ballast and then wait several days for it to totally dry to "Hard-as-a-Rock" status.

A couple different mixes of "rusty rail browns" are applied to the rail web with a smallish (#1 or #2) brush in a random pattern until all sections are painted. It's really not difficult at all, and it is quite satisfying when you "get down on it" and give it a look, as you can see.

To me, it's a lot of fun ... but then ... I'm easily amused! 8-)

I apologize for taking up so much space, more-or-less hijacking the thread ... I just hope it was helpful to at least one person.

[jonte]

Wow!
I apologize for taking up so much space, more-or-less hijacking the thread ... I just hope it was helpful to at least one person.

No apology needed, biL; you hijack away......this is exactly the sort of input I crave....... it's the only way I'm going to learn and prevent further false starts, so thanks for sharing.

Interestingly, your method for staining the ties......apologies by the way for my misnomer (sleepers) - when will I ever get used to the fact that I'm a railroader now ? (gotta stop spelling modeling with two 'l's too ) ..... is the same as that used by Iain Rice except that he uses an old tobacco tin for the purpose. Gret idea, but in my case, I'll have to use paint due to the PCB ties in between :cry:

Still, it's great to see how you achieved the look.

By the way, as regards the compliments: credit where credit's due, biL

Best wishes,

Jonte