Adding handrails to GP7
#16
RobertInOntario Wrote:
Russ Bellinis Wrote:If your son is going to handle the models, he should always pick up a diesel locomotive by the tank, never by the body or handrails. That being said, I would recommend that you use piano wire of the correct size rather than brass wire. It is tougher, and less likely to bend or distort.

Hm, thanks, Russ. I'll consider piano wire then, especially if it's tougher. I'll tell my son (or try to!) about how to pick the locos up, etc.. He's pretty good with our MRR stuff, although there is some damage now & then, which I simply tolerate. I'd sooner allow him some freedom (i.e. take some risks) here to encourage his railway interest, rather than put him off.

the down side to piano wire is that it is more difficult to form and destroys your cutters very quickly. It also rusts. Brass is far more easy to work with and not so harsh on your equipment. In the long run, brass wire is more likely to pop off the stanchion than get kinked due to rough handling. At that point, the steel wire would also come off. Besides, smokey valley stanchions themselves are "soft", and will flex easily.

Trust me, i use the same size Piano wire you would use for your handrails as my wires for my Catenary poles and trolley wires. If you go this route, get purpose-made Hard Wire cutters, and coat it in a good layer of paint so that it doesn't begin to rust away (which I'm already seeing on some parts of my catenary structures). It might help to make a jig as well, as the piano wire is going to be tough to bend.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#17
You can use stainless wire. Stainless steel does not rust, but is strong. Don't ever use cutters designed to cut rail on any steel product. Those cutters are designed for soft metal. I use diagonal cutters (a-k-a "dikes") to cut steel wire, not rail nippers.
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#18
Yeah, they sell these super thick crazy looking things that actually sheer the hard wire apart, rather than just cut it. they look like the claws on a demolition excavator, and they work like them to!
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#19
Another question: Is it best to paint the handrails & stanchions black before attaching them to the locomotive or after? I would think before, but just thought I'd check. Thanks again!
Rob
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#20
RobertInOntario Wrote:Another question: Is it best to paint the handrails & stanchions black before attaching them to the locomotive or after? I would think before, but just thought I'd check. Thanks again!

I Guess you could paint them first, Every time i've ever used them, the model was unpainted and the handrails were the same color as the body. if you were upgrading an already painted model, I'd say paint them first if possible, so you don't risk your existing model. If you're starting from scratch, its better in my opinion to just install them without painting, and get it all with one sweep of the airbrush (or whatever you use). you can use a microbrush (common at many hobby shops) to paint the other color typical of the ends.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#21
Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:
RobertInOntario Wrote:Another question: Is it best to paint the handrails & stanchions black before attaching them to the locomotive or after? I would think before, but just thought I'd check. Thanks again!

I Guess you could paint them first, Every time i've ever used them, the model was unpainted and the handrails were the same color as the body. if you were upgrading an already painted model, I'd say paint them first if possible, so you don't risk your existing model. If you're starting from scratch, its better in my opinion to just install them without painting, and get it all with one sweep of the airbrush (or whatever you use). you can use a microbrush (common at many hobby shops) to paint the other color typical of the ends.

Thanks... yes, it probably does make sense to paint them first since I've already repainted and added decals to the loco's body. If some of the paint on the handrails gets chipped off while installing them, I can always touch them up later.
Cheers,
Rob
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#22
I can vouch for just how tough piano wire is.

I had to cut up an old upright piano at work [a school] to get it down from the second floor. Damn cast frame was a real bastard to cut up, but the piano wire made for some pretty sparks. Mind you I had to be careful as the wire was under tension.

Still safer than lugging that heavy bastard down stairs.

Mark
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