April Loco builds party
#16
Another project I had going is installing some ditch lights in my UP C44-9W. I need to continue doing some detailing work, and then it can go to the paint shop. The only thing I'm not too happy with is the fact that my 'pure white' SMT leds for these, turned out to be more blue than my actual headlight, which has only a slight blue tint. Oh well, very modern loco with metal halide type bulbs installed! Icon_lol Icon_lol
   
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
Reply
#17
Cool on the X995! one day i'll pick one up.


torikoos Wrote:Another project I had going is installing some ditch lights in my UP C44-9W. I need to continue doing some detailing work, and then it can go to the paint shop. The only thing I'm not too happy with is the fact that my 'pure white' SMT leds for these, turned out to be more blue than my actual headlight, which has only a slight blue tint. Oh well, very modern loco with metal halide type bulbs installed! Icon_lol Icon_lol

yeah, you need to get the yellow glo or warm white LEDs, which simulate incandescants.

straight "white" LEDs always have a blue glow to them because of their constuction. In fact, most things that are "white" are actually blue. For example, did you ever wonder why white clothing glows blueish under a darklight? it is actually inherently blue, but regular light out competes it so that it appears white in normal light.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
Reply
#18
Cheers Yeah I'll replace these LED's when these wear out, I super glued them in place so they won't come out without damage, so it may be a while. I quite like the look of these 'blueish' lights, eventhough it's not prototypical. :-) Icon_lol
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
Reply
#19
I've got a few loco jobs in various states of completion. I'll start with the diesels...A trio of H-24-66 Train-masters from Athearn ( 2 powered, 1 dummy ).     They will get painted for the home road after some minor detail changes.

Next up are my steam projects.
Here is a heavy USRA Mountain that will get a minor face lift. [Image: 034.jpg] She will receive a tender mounted train phone antenna, top mounted bell, and feed water heater to match her two sisters that look like this. [Image: 035.jpg]

After that I have a group of Camelback conversions that are patiently waiting parts from Bethlehem car works' new supplier ( they sold off that part of the Co.).The main stalling point are fire box parts shown here. [Image: 030-1.jpg] that's my last one, and I need a few more.

Shown here is a L&NE 2-8-0 that will be built from an old MDC kit. [Image: 028.jpg]

This one will become a freelanced 0-6-0 camel based off a Bachman drive. [Image: 031.jpg]

Now here is a pair of Russian 2-10-0's that will also get the center cab treatment for my freelanced road. I'm also thinking about adding scratch built tenders to them as I have not found any commercially available ones that fit the bill. [Image: 029-1.jpg]


Last up is a L&NE 2-8-2 that I've had in the works for a wile. [Image: 027.jpg] A thread on this model can be found here. <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=3421">viewtopic.php?f=22&t=3421</a><!-- l -->
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#20
Those are some old drives in that Fairbanks! i have an old drive like that in one of my E60s, I've been considering replacing them with better motors. I saw someone stick an Atlas motor in the Athearn pieces, but i don't know how much that increases performance, given the gearing. Still, even a PPW motor seems to run better than the stock open can motors.

Cool on the Steam engines!
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)