"Un-glueing" Gorilla Glue
#1
Long story short, I have mistakenly glued down a buffer stop on one of my pieces of track on my British 00 (similar to HO) switching layout. The buffer stop is basically a piece of plastic that I have glued onto a strip of Peco Flextrack. This is the small bottle of Gorilla Glue that I've seen recently for sale at LHS's, which is especially suited for our hobby. (I now realize it really shouldn't be in its current location but should be on another siding. :oops: )

The Gorilla Glue works so well that the buffer seems to be fastened down really well! I don't want to break the buffer stop nor do I really want to cut up my nice strip of Peco track. Is there something I could use to remove the buffer stop without damaging anything or should I simply leave it there?

Just did a quick google search -- would this technique work? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ehow.com/how_4969344_remove-gorilla-glue.html">http://www.ehow.com/how_4969344_remove- ... -glue.html</a><!-- m -->

Thanks in advance!

Rob
Rob
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#2
The article does not mention the type of paint thinner to use. Mineral spirits would not hurt the plastic, but I suspect that for Gorilla glue, you will need either laquer thinner, acetone, or mek to dissolve it. The problem is all three will dissolve styrene plastic. My suggestion is to leave the bumper in place and install another one on the spur that it should have been on. If you don't want any bumper on that track for some reason, cut the track just in front of the bumper and move that short section of track to the spur that you want the bumper on. You won't really be wasting a section of Peco track, just moving the 1 inch or so long section from one spur to another.
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#3
Your chances of breaking the bond are fairly remote - once it sets, it stays set! - Here in UK, I use an alternative - the construction Industry version called "Everbuild Lumberjack 30 minute polyurethane wood glue", about 2.5 x the amount for ½ the price - I don't use screws or nails in baseboards any more - just glue and clamp - once set the wood will break before the bond does. They do a 5 minute version as well.
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#4
If the buffer and the and the piece its glued on is metal you could try to heat it with a soldering iron and pry it up
Tom

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#5
tomustang Wrote:If the buffet and the and the piece its glued on is metal you could try to heat it with a soldering iron and pry it up

Thanks -- that sounds good although the buffer stops are plastic and the rails metal, so I don't think it would work :-(

Thanks all the same!
Rob
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#6
Russ Bellinis Wrote:The article does not mention the type of paint thinner to use. Mineral spirits would not hurt the plastic, but I suspect that for Gorilla glue, you will need either laquer thinner, acetone, or mek to dissolve it. The problem is all three will dissolve styrene plastic. My suggestion is to leave the bumper in place and install another one on the spur that it should have been on. If you don't want any bumper on that track for some reason, cut the track just in front of the bumper and move that short section of track to the spur that you want the bumper on. You won't really be wasting a section of Peco track, just moving the 1 inch or so long section from one spur to another.

Thanks -- yes, this might be my best bet. I'll try this. I don't want to destroy or wreck the buffer as they are relatively expensive. They're only pieces of plastic but they cost close to $3 apiece. (See <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://modellerscorner.co.uk/prestashop/en/oo-gauge-track/108-hornby-r083-buffer-stop.html">http://modellerscorner.co.uk/prestashop ... -stop.html</a><!-- m -->)

Thanks!

Rob
Rob
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#7
What about treating it like a piece of sectional track? Cut the rails right where the bumper is then take that little chuck of track/bumper and stick on the end of siding that you want it on. Wink
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#8
tetters Wrote:What about treating it like a piece of sectional track? Cut the rails right where the bumper is then take that little chuck of track/bumper and stick on the end of siding that you want it on. Wink

Yes, that might be a good option as well -- as long as the glue hasn't seeped through the rails onto the track bed! Guess I could always move some of the foam road bed with it.

Cheers,
Rob
Rob
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#9
OK when do you say that is to much trouble for a $3 item? 35
Les
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#10
"OK when do you say that is to much trouble for a $3 item? 35"

Thanks for your feedback here... I did solve this as per Tetters' method above. I simply cut off the two sections of track and swapped them. This was easy enough to do -- the buffer stayed thoroughly glued to the track but the track wasn't stuck or glued to the road-bed, so it was easy enough to move them around!

Yeah, the buffer stops are only about $3.00 each -- but they are a little hard to find here (being a British model railway accessory, etc.), so I don't want to waste 'em if I can avoid it.

Cheers, Rob
Rob
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