A little TLC for an older loco...
#16
Wayne, a very good looking model!
I would by lucky when I would find the courage to start my loco projects.
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#17
Wayne...Terrific job on that loco...(as always..)... Thumbsup

I have a little brass 0-8-0 that I painted and lettered a looooong time ago, and changed out the drive train for a NWSL gear tower. Unfortunately one of the geared driver wheels (or both...not sure now...) is out of quarter and the loco wobbles its way down the track. Is there some kind of tool and/or method to get these drivers back "on track" so I can use the little bugger..?? It's a gorgeous little engine and I'd love to get it back to running condition....Any help you can provide would be most welcome... Smile
Gus (LC&P).
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#18
Gus, NorthWest Short Line has a tool called "The Quarterer" which is intended for quartering drivers. It works well, but can't be used on geared axles.
I've found that it's not that difficult to quarter "by-eye", especially if the drivers are all in the frame of the loco, either while you're performing the operation or can be easily placed into the frame to visually check your progress. You may have to disengage the gears to make the task easier, but all that's require is to align the counterweights on one side of the loco: I find placing them all at the bottom the easiest, as you can use the workbench-top as a parallel reference, but they could also be aligned vertically or at the top. Then, without allowing the wheels to turn, check the alignment of the counterweights on the opposite side of the loco. They should be at 90°, either before or after, to those on the opposite side. Any that are not are out-of-quarter. Simply twist the offending wheel(s) to bring it into line, keeping in mind that the wheel which has actually slipped may be on either end of the axle. You may or may not have to remove the wheelset from the loco to do the twisting - the one that slipped in the first place will probably be the one which is easiest to move. You can usually look through the wheel on one side to see if the counterweights are roughly 90° apart. Re-install the adjusted wheelset, then re-align the counterweights on the same side as you used originally, then re-check the other side, continuing until all counterweights are in their proper position on each axle - you may find more than one wheelset out-of-quarter. As each wheelset is quartered, apply a minute amount of ca to the wheel/axle interface - less than a drop is required. I usually place a small puddle of ca on a sheet of glass (my usual worksurface), then dip the tip of a #11 X-Acto blade in it - the pointed blade allows precise placement on either the inside or outside of the wheel/axle area - be sure to do this on both wheels of each axle. Also, be careful to ensure that the wheelset is re-installed as it was originally - this is especially important on brass or older locos, as the drivers on one side are insulated from the axle, either at the hub or at the wheel/tire interface.

Most model steam locomotives have enough slop in their side rods and valve gear that being "off" by few degrees won't have an adverse affect, but be as precise as possible with your adjustments.

Wayne
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