Laying Peco code 55 track using caulk: problems

[videobruce]

First time for both. Peco track & using clear acrylic caulk as an adhesive. Used the caulk a hundred times, but never for this.

Problems are;
1. The rail joiners are smaller than Atlas (which I had little trouble with 15 years ago). They look better, but are hard to slide on after the rail has been cut which is ok for contact, but what happens is due to the size and design of the joiner, there isn't enough 'lip' on each end of the joiner to act as a guide for the heel of the rail to slide into the slot unlike Atlas. This is especially true with turnouts.

2. The other problem is the 'mess' from the caulk that was spread over the roadbed. Before I just used nails to hold the track in place. No mess. Now, you apply the caulk first, after your sure the track fits, then place the track, then try to get the joiners to line up (problem #1). In doing so, you wind up getting caulk all over your hands including the rail itself.

I thought about placing the track, no caulk, lining it up, then with a putty knife lift up the track and apply the caulk, somehow spreading the caulk out with a 2nd blade.

[Tyson Rayles]

I have been using Peco code 55 for years but I have never and will never use caulk so I can't help you there. When you cut the rail if you will use a small file to clean up the ends and taper them slightly the joiners will go on a lot easier. That said you should never depend on the joiners for contact. To me the joiners are for keeping the rails aligned, solder is for contact. I would suggest you use Elmer's white glue instead of caulk, that way you can change/reuse/relocate the track forever by spraying it with warm water, letting it soak for a few minutes then pulling it up and relaying it after cleaning it up a little. If you use the caulk I don't know how you could ever make a change or reuse it. And of course clean up is a lot easier with the Elmer's.

[videobruce]

Full strength?
Elsewhere it was suggested to use CA. :?:

[Steamtrains]

It is important to file the end of cut rails as Tyson says and fit the joiners BEFORE placing the track in place. I use caulk over cork. I spread a THIN bead of caulk down the center line and spread it flat with a spatula, then lay the track in place and pin it down to the cork with push pins. If the caulk squeezes out between the ties, you're using too much. I leave it to cure overnight and remove the pins in the morning. Presto...Job done with no mess....
When laying down turnouts I leave the areas around the points free of caulk to prevent any caulk from interfering with proper point movement and contact.

[BR60103]

As well as tapering the rail base, I use a small length of spare rail to open the joiner before applying. I've also found that a length of rail can help put the joiner onto the laid track.

[videobruce]

It is important to file the end of cut rails as Tyson says and fit the joiners BEFORE placing the track in place.

Using a 'flush' type of cutters results in a decent 'cut'. Not perfect, but I will file the ends from now on to see if that helps.
Regarding placing joiners on the rail first, I have been placing the joiners on the turnouts (where I'm having the most problems). I really don't see why it would matter with flex track, if the joiner is on the piece that was just laid, or on the piece you are attaching. Only one piece has the joiners, though it seems to be easier if the piece on the layout has the joiners so the new piece can be laid with the rail sliding over the joiner vs trying to side the joiners under the existing rail.

As well as tapering the rail base

Explain. :?:

[Tyson Rayles]

Yes I use the Elmer's full strength to glue the track down, I mix it 50/50 for holding the ballast in place. The rail base is the bottom part that actually lays on the roadbed, if you taper the corners and leading edge of the bottom part as well as tapering the railhead the joiners will go on more easily.

[videobruce]

The rail base is the bottom part that actually lays on the roadbed

Don't you mean what lays on the ties? The ties lay on the roadbed.

if you taper the corners and leading edge of the bottom part as well as tapering the railhead the joiners will go on more easily.

Are you talking about filing the bottom of the rail and the bottom of the end tie?? :?:

Man, that's a lot of filing. :o

[teejay]

I don't know that we get Elmers glue up here ....I haven't seen it ......but after a lot of experimentation over the years , I stick to ( oops ) a product called WELDBOND . It's made in Ontario so I don't know if they distribute down your way or not , but here's what I like about it :

1. It forms a very strong bond that sets quickly ( 10 minutes , dries in a couple of hours ) and will bond many different surfaces ....wood , cardboard , plastic , glass etc .
2. It drys clear , not opaque like some white glues , or yellow like carpenters glue .
3. Getting the stuff to release requires a few seconds time with a HAIR DRYER ! That way you don't have to be sloshing water/soap on your layout .

The whole Ebbetts Field ball park project , on the Scratchbuit Forum , was built with WELDBOND and yes , we did have to move things on a few occasions . The hair dryer method worked perfectly .

Other white glues may release with the hair dryer ....do a little experimenting .

Terry

[steinjr]

The rail base is the bottom part that actually lays on the roadbed

Don't you mean what lays on the ties? The ties lay on the roadbed.

if you taper the corners and leading edge of the bottom part as well as tapering the railhead the joiners will go on more easily.

Are you talking about filing the bottom of the rail and the bottom of the end tie?? :?:

Man, that's a lot of filing. :o

A couple of swipes with a file on each side should do it. Up to you if you want the joiners to go on easy, or whether you prefer to not file and instead try to force the joiners on as is.

Smile,
Stein

[videobruce]

I stick to ( oops ) a product called WELDBOND . It's made in Ontario so I don't know if they distribute down your way or not

Ace, True value & Do It Best stores are suppose to carry it;
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.weldbond.com/where_buy">http://www.weldbond.com/where_buy</a><!-- m -->

It's not a liquid so I would have to apply it first, then lay the rail, or lift the rail up to apply below, correct?

Stein; I will take a closer look at these cuts to see just how bad they are.

[teejay]

Is this flex track or hand laid ? I was thinking flex track , whereby I would solder joiners on 2 or 3 lengths before laying glue along the roadbed and then affixing the track ....if your configuration allows this . I've also seen other situations where the guy just glues the ballast in place to hold everything down ....don't know how well that works .

Hand laid would be trickier but the Weldbond would hold it easily .

I'm going to be faced with the same situation , soon , on the first part of my new layout ( HO ) . I'm using 1/2" plywood sub roadbed , cork strips for roadbed , and Weldbond to hold the code 100 flextrack .



T

[videobruce]

All flex track.

[Steamtrains]

The only time I've soldered two or more sections of flextrack before laying them was on a tricky S-shaped section that I didn't want to run the risk of having a kink in the track as it is on a section where a derailment might send the train 4 feet to the floor....

Make sure you solder sliding rail to sliding rail....Don't ask me how I know.... :oops:

[Tyson Rayles]

The rail base is the bottom part that actually lays on the roadbed

Don't you mean what lays on the ties? The ties lay on the roadbed.

if you taper the corners and leading edge of the bottom part as well as tapering the railhead the joiners will go on more easily.

Are you talking about filing the bottom of the rail and the bottom of the end tie?? :?:

Man, that's a lot of filing. :o

Yes I meant the part that sits on the ties, sorry. No you don't need to file the ties.

Terry to pull the track back up you don't slosh on water and soap. There is no need for the soap it wouldn't do any good anyway. All you need to do is lightly mist the track with plain warm water enough to get it wet, no more. If done right there is no mess to clean up.