Bushwick Terminal
#61
shortliner Wrote:
postman Wrote:Nice layout. Thumbsup
Do you have a track plan to share?


Errrmm - Post #1 perhaps ??? Wallbang

Oops! :oops: 357
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#62
No, I did not tear this layout down since my last post, and no, I did not even think of it … Goldth. I was just too busy to get much modeling done, but I did paint the track (Kev, did I sense some irony there ? Goldth) and I built the road. Ballasting is next …

[Image: bt31.jpg]

[Image: bt32.jpg]

[Image: bt33.jpg]
Kurt
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#63
Your road and crossing looks awesome, what did you use?
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#64
I am using wet/dry sandpaper for my roads. The cracks are made simply by ripping the paper before painting. I paint it with thin acrylic artist paints (very light grey with a little raw sienna). You need to paint it two or three times with a stiff paint brush, but when using a hairdryer it is done in a few minutes. Afterwards I give it a wash with very thin black/brown acrylic paints. Last step is to do the dark exhaust shadows in the center of the lanes with an airbrush.
Kurt
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#65
Excellent work Kurt ! Thumbsup
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#66
cnw1961 Wrote:I am using wet/dry sandpaper for my roads.

Any particular number or grit?
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#67
That road looks absolutely real. Thumbsup
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#68
Mike, Mountainman, thank you for your comments.

Rscott, the grit is 320.
Kurt
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#69
Kurt,

Cheers with the other comments about the realistic road. What did you use as a base for the sandpaper and how did you glue to the base? Also, am I safe to assume that the rail heads are slightly above the road surface?

Thanks for letting us follow along with you on this new layout.

Mark
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#70
Mark, I am using 3 mm (1/8") thick cardboard as a base for the sandpaper. To use two layers – first 2 mm (to match the height of the ties) and a second 1 mm layer on top (to go above the ties) – is even easier, because then you don’t have to cut out the cardboard to go above the ties. 3 mm cardboard is perfect for my ME code 70 track to have the rail heads slightly above the road surface. I am using an universal contact cement to glue it all together. It is all pretty easy to do, the only tricky part is to get the color right. When mixing the paint, I am always trying it out on little pieces of sandpaper first. It is amazing how much the color of these acrylics change when they dry on the sandpaper. The good thing is, you can still use these pieces of sandpaper for sanding … nothing wasted Goldth . A little sanding in places after painting and gluing the sandpaper to the cardboard helps to make the grit and the cracks stand out. You can see the effect in the small pic of my post above.
Kurt
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#71
Kurt,

Thank you for the detailed description of your "paving" process. It's very simple yet highly effective...not to mention inexpensive.

I'm eagerly awaiting the next update, so keep up the great modeling! Thumbsup Thumbsup

Mark
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#72
cnw1961 Wrote:but I did paint the track (Kev, did I sense some irony there ? Goldth)

A job a hate, and have been putting off on my latest layout ...... It makes so much difference though doesn't it Cheers

I'm really liking the feet of your roads. I tried it when I was a kid without success .... Looks like I need to revisit the idea Thumbsup

Cheers,

Kev
Such is life
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#73
Kev, unfortunately painting the track makes a huge difference, so there is no way around it …

Since my last post I ballasted the track and resumed working on my strcutures again. I picked the big rounded structure to start with. After applying brick sheets (the smoke stack is still to be done), it is starting to look quite promising.

[Image: bt34.jpg]

[Image: bt35.jpg]

[Image: bt36.jpg]
Kurt
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#74
Looks incredible!!!! Worship
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#75
Kurt - what do you use for the roller doors with the tops, please
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