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This
is going to become this
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/picture...9128_4.JPG
or at least as close as I can
Reinhard
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The first step is not very exiting.
Clean and lube the drive, replace broken parts (3 axis, 1 brace and 1 gear wheel), add 4 wire pickup to the trucks and add a Zimo MX630R DCC decoder with a small PCB (it is mounted with double side sticky tape on the motor) to connect all wires (there are two small plugs at each end to connect the lights later). The huge and heavy Proto2000 weight will not be used anymore. A lighter engine runs quieter and still pulls more cars than necessary on my small layout. Truck sides and tank got black painted from the rattle can.
That is a solid base to fiddle with the shell.
Reinhard
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Working on the shell. Base is an old P2K UP Geep. The cab is an Atlas GP24 spare part.
Reinhard
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Looks like a good start Reinhard.
Mike
Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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Looks like you are off to a good start there Reinhard
Cheers,
Kev
Such is life
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Another masterpiece in the making. :mrgreen:
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
"The Ol Furrball"
"I'm old school,I still believe in respect"
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Some hours later.... thanks for the kind words!
I had the plan to replace the P2K coupler lift bar with a detail part (foreground of photo). My eyes and hands explained me after an hour of no progress at all to be happy if I get the old lift bar back in place without breaking it. I did so and I am happy ....
The Horst air filter is a casting part from Custom Finishing Models. I assume they put drops in water and sort them what they might look alike. It had a very rough surface and lots of flesh.... not recommended! I have another one from Detail Associates with a much better quality.
Last step for today was the gray primer at the balcony with a nice sunset
ps. The MAW engine has some IC lettering. My IC decals are on order from the US but will arrive in 3 weeks at earliest
Reinhard
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After another trip to the balcony the next morning
The model will be incomplete until the IC decals arrive in some weeks. But I will assemble the parts permanent, add the glass, LED lights etc. and mask the windows later for the final dull coat after the decals are applied.
I did not see the lousy sanding of the former road numbers at the short nose until the final paint was applied on this photo.... :cry:
Reinhard
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Temporary assembled (no glue, handrails not fully attached, no LED installed etc.) for testing and limited operation on the layout while waiting for decals and a flash of wit how to do weathering.
Reinhard
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Looking good
Cheers,
Kev
Such is life
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Assembled and none IC specific decals from stock applied. LED lights are the next step to be done.
There was some unexpected interference with Micro Sol and the dull coal. I do still refrain from weathering, it's to early to ruin it....
Kev, thanks
Reinhard
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The prototype weathering of that engine is far to complex for me. I used some simple rust spots and a gray and brown dry brush at some areas. The model looks much more run down but I did not risk to ruin it.
Reinhard
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For the longest time only the conductor's side ditch light worked:
MAW16HoppersDefianceOH6-1-10 by
railohio, on Flickr
About a year after I shot that it was fixed, however.
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faraway Wrote:The prototype weathering of that engine is far to complex for me. I used some simple rust spots and a gray and brown dry brush at some areas. The model looks much more run down but I did not risk to ruin it.
I can well understand your not wanting to ruin it! She turned out great
Cheers,
Kev
Such is life
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Reinhard,
I had the same fear as you about heavy weathering, but I found out using oil type paint gave me time to work things around and thin the result.
Good work again!
Matt