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Now that I found out the hard way that a shelf layout in an apartment that im renting is not a great idea, the next one will be a module layout for sure. I always disliked modules because of the gap that usually seems to be pretty noticeable but I saw an ad for Kam Konnect <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://kamkonnect.com/index.htm">http://kamkonnect.com/index.htm</a><!-- m --> in MRR and it looks like their system locks in place pretty tight maybe eliminating that gap a little better. I'm just looking for some opinions from those who have or have built a modular layout. Is what they offer worth the money theyre asking or could I find something better in a module layout how-to book? I've never built one before so I could use all the help I can get. Having a modular kit with pre-cut parts and plans seems convenient to me but in the end might just be paying for convenience. Thanks in advance.
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Modules are a great way to get your railroad built, especially if you can find a local club to run with. Here's mine - <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.hotrak.ca">www.hotrak.ca</a><!-- w -->.
They have links there to building modules with either dimensional lumber (1x4+) or ripped "Baltic" plywood and 2" extruded styrofoam (pink or blue, not white).
The Kam Konnector looks cool, but I'm worried that the only pictures I could find show it being connected/tightened from the top...? Seems a bit odd. The connection is the hardest part to get perfect, so if you build your own, definitely measure two or three times before cutting. And make sure you get your angles exact.
Lots of fun!
Andrew
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Thanks for the link MasonJar. I just noticed what you were talking about with the locking connection being on top, that is odd, maybe for demonstration?
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Locking from the top is most likely for convenience! As bones, joints, waistlines, muscles etc pass through the life cycle it is a blessing not to have to get down on your knees and peer up through stinging sweat and turn nuts in awkward angles.
Part of the increasing interest in T-TRAK is due to modellers finding big 4ft by 2ft modules being pains to move and connect etc.
Regards, Andrew G.
Always learning, from both wins and losses.
My Model Railway blog: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/">http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/</a><!-- m -->
My FlickR Photostream: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/85896932@N07/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/85896932@N07/</a><!-- m -->
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TTRAK_andrew Wrote:Locking from the top is most likely for convenience! As bones, joints, waistlines, muscles etc pass through the life cycle it is a blessing not to have to get down on your knees and peer up through stinging sweat and turn nuts in awkward angles. Part of the increasing interest in T-TRAK is due to modellers finding big 4ft by 2ft modules being pains to move and connect etc.
Regards, Andrew G.
Around 12-13 years ago I help set up a modular layout..The process wasn't all that slow but,I found it backbreaking since we had to line each modular then crawl underneath to fasten clamps and connect the wiring.
The Kam Konnector system looks to be a vast improvement and can be connected without crawling around underneath modulars-not a happy thought for the young or old.
BTW. I've always thought T Track was the better modular system.
Larry
Engineman
Summerset Ry
Make Safety your first thought, Not your last! Safety First!
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The other thing that occurs to me is that it looks an awful lot like the Fre-mo standard used by a couple of our European members. I know it's starting to catch on here in N.America.
The NMRA also has a modular standard.
And I agree with Brakie that crawling underneath for power, Loco-net (Digitrax) connections, and clamping is my least favourite part. The only redeeming feature there is that you usually have to get down on the floor to adjust the feet for proper height and levelling anyway.
Andrew
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With those prices I do believe I would build my own.I like the idea of the cam lock but it should not be to hard to figure out how to do them or find plans online to show you how to do the cam lock yourself.The guide pins are a definate plus and will allow running the track to the end of the module thus eliminating fitter tracks which seem to either grow or shrink between set ups.
As for the module joints you can run the scenery right to the edge of the module,plant a building on the joint ,make a road that would simply drop in place over the joint.
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
"The Ol Furrball"
"I'm old school,I still believe in respect"
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Just looked through their catalog, and it seems that you can buy just the end pieces with the cams in them. So you could build whatever shapes you want, and then apply the end pieces for simple joining of modules. Cuts the cost a bit, but covers the trickier part of aligning modules.
The other thing I noticed in the pictures is that the modules have a complete plywood base. I don't know what the thickness is, but even 1/4" will add significant weight. In my experience with HOTrak, 2" extruded foam is very strong once glued into the wood frame. A cross brace is required every two feet only.
Andrew
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See <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a6X-_q2vo0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a6X-_q2vo0</a><!-- m -->
Do a search on Google for cam connectors they are relatively inexpenxsive - a UK example <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/screws_and_fixings/sanitary_and_furniture_fixings/202020/cam_connector_with_rim/405797?vat=1&gclid=CJay4JX_qLwCFQgHwwodNjkAhg">http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... wwodNjkAhg</a><!-- m -->
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shortliner Wrote:See <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a6X-_q2vo0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a6X-_q2vo0</a><!-- m -->
Do a search on Google for cam connectors they are relatively inexpenxsive - a UK example <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/products/screws_and_fixings/sanitary_and_furniture_fixings/202020/cam_connector_with_rim/405797?vat=1&gclid=CJay4JX_qLwCFQgHwwodNjkAhg">http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... wwodNjkAhg</a><!-- m -->
Shortliner's link is for the "IKEA" style post and nut. What I think Kam Konnect is using are "concealed butt joint fasteners": <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.southco.com/ko-kr/r2-r5">http://www.southco.com/ko-kr/r2-r5</a><!-- m -->
Andrew
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I looked firsthand at the Kam Konnect system at the recent Plano Train Show in the Dallas area. Its a pretty neat set-up. The locking system works very well. I have no need for it myself, but it will serve some modelers well if they are looking for portability and ease of set-up. Catt, we pay $30+ for railcars now, so why not? I am in agreement that building your own is a less expensive option, which is the option that I will continue to follow. IIRC they were using 1/2" plywood and could stand on a module.
willie
willie
