Boosted Output
#31
Steamtrains Wrote:An alternative to using cast lead like Dr. Wayne, is to use lead buckshot from a shotgun shell and mix it with slow setting epoxy. You won't get as much weight as using cast lead, but something is better than nothing....


Just to add to the multiple comments on shot:
- Whether buying shot in bags or in shot shells, make sure the shot is in fact lead. It is somewhat less common than it used to be, being replaced with other, harder materials or composites, especially in waterfowl hunting areas (lead shot was restricted many decades ago due to the lead poisoning that was entering the food chain in heavily hunted (and therefore "heavy" with spent shot on the ground) areas) or for purposes where the hunter wants extra range - for equal weight, a harder shot will fly further and straighter. Steel shot, copper plated lead shot and some proprietary alloys of tungsten, beryllium and other metals are becoming more and more common.
- Use the smallest pellet size you can find to limit voids between the pellets (more weight for a given volume). The smallest that's typically found in the hunting supply sections is 6 or 7 1/2, though you may find smaller in areas that are good habitat for very small game birds. In the world of shot sizes, the larger the number, the smaller the diameter of the shot (a nice shot size chart can be found here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.wilsonprecision.com/shotinfo.html">http://www.wilsonprecision.com/shotinfo.html</a><!-- m -->)
- If you find you do a lot of weighting with shot - and it is handy - go to a gun store that has reloading supplies and buy a 25 pound bag. Cheaper, and no chance of it discharging when you open it!

Closer to on-topic, this thread was one of the very first I read on the old site many years ago - it caught my interest because I had done something similar (though not as well). I enjoy re-reading it every time. Doc does very cool stuff.

Sorry for the ramble!

Matt Goodman
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
#32
Thanks for the additional info, Matt, and for the kind words, too. Big Grin

For those unable or unwilling to cast their own lead weights, this is a viable alternative. Of course, the usual precautions about handling lead should be observed. Goldth

Wayne
#33
I have bought a second hand Mikado, the pig tail had been cut off, I got the motor wiring worked out but what do the blue and white wires do, I presume they are for the headlight?
Thanks for any help in advance.

Wayne
#34
Hi Wayne, and Welcome to Big Blue.

It's been a while since I did these re-builds, so it's difficult to remember where all the wires went. If the pigtail and its accompanying circuit board are gone, re-connecting the headlight will likely cause it to burn out. If I'm not mistaken, the light is an LED and not rated for track current. I don't use lights in any of my locos, but you may be able to replace the existing one with another of greater rating or with a grain-of-wheat bulb. You may also want to add a constant lighting circuit.
I may have the pigtails and circuit boards left over from this project - contact me via PM if you're interested. You'd be on your own to figure out the wiring, though. Wink Misngth Misngth

Wayne


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