An (almost) perfect running RS3
#1
I wanted a smooth running MILW RS3 but I could only get an Atlas Seaboard RS3 and an Athearn RTR MILW RS3.
So I got a wonderful drive and a nice shell to be matched. It was a surprisingly easy three step process.

1. Some easy milling at both ends of the Atlas frame to fit into the Athearn shell
[Image: IMG_3516_zpsffa80818.jpg]
2. Cut off the clips at the Athearn shell
[Image: IMG_3517_zpsc1d958d0.jpg]
3. Close the coupler gaps at the shell to hold the shell "Atlas style" in place (the cuts at the steps are not required, made them trying to avoid milling)
[Image: IMG_3519_zps574951c4.jpg]
Here we go, looks like Athearn and runs and sounds like Atlas Smile
[Image: IMG_3520_zps57bb84ff.jpg]

Front and rear LED lights are next. The specific number boards are on order. That will take weeks or month...

ps. The unused Atlas shell still fits on the drive. I am thinking about an CR RS3m shell to be used as a alternative.
Reinhard
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#2
Would you be able to fit the Atlas shell onto the Athearn drive (and making that drive a dummy)?
Then a paint job perhaps and you could run 2 RS-3's together.

:-)

Koos
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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#3
torikoos Wrote:Would you be able to fit the Atlas shell onto the Athearn drive...
A ver y quick checks looks not good.... Sad I would need to heavy modify the Atlas shell and it might not fit on the Atlas drive anymore.
Beside that do I have no space for two RS3 (two SW1500 is the absolute maximum) and a home painted MILW RS3 would look very different from the Athearn RTR shell. I will save the shell and look into CR RS3m some time later.
Reinhard
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#4
Work in progress at the residual Atlas shell to become a CR RS3m. Dimensions of the long hood add ons became much easier thanks to Bruce's photos.

[Image: IMG_3525_zps457a5b9d.jpg]

The almost black Atlas shell swam about 6 hours in 99% alcohol without any signs of paint stripping. The stinky airbrush cleaner did the job in 10 minutes.The MILW and CR shells are interchangeable on the Atlas drive.
Reinhard
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#5
Reinhard,

You don't waste any time in getting things done, I do envy your ability to do this. Worship Looking forward to see it completed.

Bruce
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#6
i've always wanted to do one of those locomotives!
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
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#7
One step further
[Image: IMG_3527_zps264b2b45.jpg]
Reinhard
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#8
Are those stacks going to cause any tunnel clearance problems?
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#9
Tyson Rayles Wrote:Are those stacks going to cause any tunnel clearance problems?
Not at all. The top of the stacks is at the same height as the brown 50' standard height boxcar in the back.

The lunch time was a paint time. The raw model will rest until tomorrow or later this evening to let the paint set for decals, detail painting, window glass etc.
[Image: IMG_3528_zpsbdf32034.jpg]
[Image: IMG_3529_zps9a6302da.jpg]
Reinhard
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#10
It's done. The nasty problem of white shadows in the dull coat around the decals areas appeared again. I had it ones when the declass had some moisture but they were complete dry today. I will need to do weathering to cover it up.
I had luck and found two Atlas SOO RS3 in the cellar. That permitted to have the MILW RS3 shell on the modified Atlas RS3 drive and this shell on a plain Atlas drive at the same time.

[Image: IMG_3530_zps74d00f59.jpg]
Reinhard
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#11
Reinhard,are you putting on a gloss coat before you decal ? It seems to me that these newer paints need a very glossy overcoat to hide the decal film before I put a flat finish on the car or loco. What's the deal with the twin stacks and the 36" EMD fans are these units repowered with something other than a ALCO prime mover? (loco looks good anyway)
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
"The Ol Furrball"

"I'm old school,I still believe in respect"
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#12
I did not put gloss on before the decals were applied. I put them directly on the paint. That is a good explanation why the dull coat could react with Micro Sol residuals around the decals.
The EMD style fans and stacks are the external indication of the new EMD 567 prima mover. The new diesel engine is the reason why the ALCO hood has the EMD facilities on top.
Reinhard
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#13
The almost black Atlas shell swam about 6 hours in 99% alcohol without any signs of paint stripping. The stinky airbrush cleaner did the job in 10 minutes.The MILW and CR shells are interchangeable on the Atlas drive.[/quote]


What is the name of the airbrush cleaner and where do you get it. I don't have an airbrush so I don't know anything about cleaning it but I have a couple of cars I would like to strip. Thanks
Today is the oldest you have ever been, yet the youngest you will ever be!
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#14
thetramp Wrote:... What is the name of the airbrush cleaner and where do you get it....

It is "Revell Airbrush Clean" Part# 39005"
http://www.riedl-electronic.at/onlinesho...V39005.JPG
I got it from my LHS or (German) Amazone. I did not find it in the US Amazone.
Reinhard
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#15
faraway Wrote:
thetramp Wrote:... What is the name of the airbrush cleaner and where do you get it....

It is "Revell Airbrush Clean" Part# 39005"
http://www.riedl-electronic.at/onlinesho...V39005.JPG
I got it from my LHS or (German) Amazone. I did not find it in the US Amazone.

How do you use it? Do you dip it & wash it off?
Today is the oldest you have ever been, yet the youngest you will ever be!
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