Micro Layout

[Mike Kieran]

Having built several micro layouts and inglenook designs I'd definitely echo the advice of putting a curve in the track. I'd go so far as suggesting a curved walled building following the track that can create mystery of where the track goes rather than leaving it too open or with many smaller structures. A bigger building like a factory could provied a cohesive context for the whole layout. Deliveries, storage Spurs work for that but I'm not sure about a team track. Maybe two raw materials in, tak cars at silos or drop bottom cars for flour or sand at the middle spur, loading doors or dock on the rear spur and storage on the front? Would still give you a variety of cars to spot.

Can you go for 5ft x 10 and still get some curve in?

Just some random thoughts rather than there be anything wrong with what you have said you wanted.

Good luck.

I was planning a roadway ABOVE the drill track, just to break up the scenery, but I do like your suggestions. The two reddish buildings to the right of the plan are for hiding the drill track.

I envision the drill track to be in a trench with trees lining it, sort of like how the New York Cross Harbor/ New York New Jersey Railroad is below street level.

[Justinmiller171]

Here is my current track-plan:



I went to Lowes yesterday and bought and assembled the baseboard, I layed down the track according to my plan and I think it looks pretty nice!

I tried to curve the drill track, but I didn't really like the look of it, so I think I will keep it straight

As far as scenery goes, I think I am going to keep things pretty basic. I only plan on having one building (a small yard office) and I probably won't include any scenic features such as trees.

[Engfanuk]

Six foot is a good size. You are making better progress than I am:-)

[faraway]

.....I think I am going to keep things pretty basic. I only plan on having one building (a small yard office) and I probably won't include any scenic features such as trees.

Or you go for the opposite and build a very dense commercial/industrial urban model. That would have the advantage to keep you busy building the layout for a long time while it is already full operational and does not need any additional space. The cost would be marginal if go for scratch building. Have a look at cardboard modeling as a cost cutting technique very popular in UK.

[Justinmiller171]

Or you go for the opposite and build a very dense commercial/industrial urban model. That would have the advantage to keep you busy building the layout for a long time while it is already full operational and does not need any additional space. The cost would be marginal if go for scratch building. Have a look at cardboard modeling as a cost cutting technique very popular in UK.

I am wanting my railroad to be set in the "High Desert" of Oregon, so I don't think that dense urban scenery would work very good. At some point I want to learn how to scratchbuild modern buildings, so perhaps I may change it to a more urban setting in the future.

[faraway]

..... so perhaps I may change it to a more urban setting in the future.

A great plan. Just select the glue you use to mount structures and the ground cover carefully. It should be water dissolvable to make changes easy.

[Engfanuk]

I am wanting my railroad to be set in the "High Desert" of Oregon, so I don't think that dense urban scenery would work very good. At some point I want to learn how to scratchbuild modern buildings, so perhaps I may change it to a more urban setting in the future.

Industrial and dense does work better for micros but you need to follow your heart for location:-)

Checkout this YouTube video for desert scenery. I really liked tthe result although as he mentions the techniques are from Mike Confalone's Allagash Railway.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://youtu.be/rYUB9n2LBeA">http://youtu.be/rYUB9n2LBeA</a><!-- m -->

[Justinmiller171]

Here is the latest plan:


I am naming the railroad after Lebanon, Oregon, a town located north of Eugene.

I spent the last few days soldering some of the track together, although I still need to buy a few more pieces of track before I can finish laying the track.

I am hoping that I can finish the track-laying and wiring by the middle of next month, and then hopefully I can get some basic scenery done by the end of the year.

I will start a new thread when I start construction and some pictures to show.

[shortliner]

Justin - I think your transload track would need mor spce each side to get road vehicles and the transload equipment in

[River Witch 14]

Justin- I like the look of Mike Kieran's track plan. It appears to give you more operating space
without running the risk of fouling any of your switch points.
When I designed my HobbsEnd ISL I made sure that all the industrial spurs had adequate space from where a car
was spotted to where the switch point was so that they were not fouled during switching moves.
BobS

[Justinmiller171]

I made some changes to the plan, I think I like a lot better:



I think the top track could be a small industry supporting 3 cars, each with specific car-spots

The middle track would either be an interchange or the mainline

The bottom track could be team track or an off-layout industry

[FCIN]

I made some changes to the plan

Great improvement with the industry in the back. Gives the layout a defined purpose serving that industry along with the team track or "suggested" industry in the front.

I may have overlooked it, but what angle turnouts are you using on this plan?

[Justinmiller171]

I may have overlooked it, but what angle turnouts are you using on this plan?

They are just some old Atlas code 83 "snap-switches" I had laying around. I am not sure of the exact angle, I think it is somewhere around #3.5. I know they are pretty tight, but they should work fine for a small layout like this.

[River Witch 14]

Justin-I agree with Ed. Nice improvements in track plan. As far as turnouts are concerned, if you can swing it I would opt for using Peco small radius turnouts. They don't take up a lot of
room and they work good as well. They are sprung so they hold their position. I added Caboose ground throws to mine
Just my thoughts.
Bob

[eje]

I think the original plan was just fine. Add an 18" stick and operate.