Track cleaning options

[River Witch 14]

I know this subject has been discussed many times but I am still trying to find a kind of cheap method that works.
I have read many threads about the use of track cleaning cars that use a specific chemical for cleaning, cleaning blocks, cleaning pads that are suspended from under a car and
the use of both a metal cleaner followed up with polishing the rail heads with a stainless steel washer. I know that these methods and others all have their merits and that it depends on what works
best for each modeler.
Last night I was watching some model rr videos on youtube and ran across one on track cleaning and the person in the stated that he swears by the use of automatic transmission
fluid that he dabs on a rail and lets his locos and cars spread it around the layout. He states that with this meth0od he can go up to a year without having to re-apply the fluid and
that he has had no problems with dirt and the trains run fine.
In my opinion this method kinda scares the hell out of me. I was always under the impression that the use of something like ATF would attract dirt and dust transferring them to the wheels
causing operation problems.
I have been messing around trying to come up with something that meets my needs. What I did was to mount a piece of bass wood under a gondola. The wood is cut slightly larger
that the width of the rails. I run this car from both ends of my switcher. The car could be left on the rails and used as an idler for my car float or removed until the next time it is used.


You will notice on the underside shot on the top and bottom of the wood block that there is a light gray streaks that shows me that the block is picking up dirt on the rails.
This method works for me.
How about the rest of you modelers,what method do you use to keep your rails clean?

[lajry]

DO NOT use any oil based product for track cleaning. Anything like that will attract dirt & more oils. You can find abrasive pads at good MR shows sold by the Tool Guy. It doesn't scratch rail heads like Bright Boys. Once cleaned run your Masonite pads to keep the rails clean. If your track already ha alot of oily gunk on it clean it w/ a foam scrub pad w/ isopropyl alcohol on it & rub til clean.

[BR60103]

I use the HO Center Line car with Aero track cleaning fluid.
I also have a collection of track erasers and such for really stubborn stains. (I'm recycling track on my layout and some goes back to the early 70s, possibly to the 60s.)
I recently splurged on the WS track cleaning kit with tons of pads and a stick. (I found that I need to buy a separate stick if I need length). This did a good job on my wife's Lionel track and the On30 line. Haven't got to the G yet.
I have some of the pads that drag from the axles (HO) but I don't know how well they work.

I've also used pieces of wood to scrape the rails.

When I was young, I saw someone cleaning tinplate track with carbon tetrachloride and emery paper. Then my mother read about carbon tet.

(Note the comment in my signature.)

[doctorwayne]

....How about the rest of you modelers,what method do you use to keep your rails clean?

None. The layout is in its own room, which is mostly finished except for the floor, which is concrete. The floor is never swept, only vacuumed, and I occasionally vacuum parts of the layout, too. The only time I've cleaned track (other than the occasional vacuuming) is after applying ballast or scenery near the tracks. I should also mention that I'm running my trains on DC, so they're not especially finicky.

I think that a clean environment goes a long way to keeping the track clean. If you have a basement layout with open joists above, or there's a lot of household traffic nearby, pets in the train area, a dusty floor that you sweep, or open windows near the layout, you can expect to clean track.

Wayne

[JaBear]

I use the "John Allen" type track cleaning car using a masonite pad, which you can see need a clean itself!! hock:

   

Cheers, the Bear.

[teejay]

Just because one guy likes ATF doesn't necessarily mean it's good for everyone . That method would scare me too .

T

[River Witch 14]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I realize that any oil based product used on rails would attract dust like a magnet which is why I was suspect when I saw that video.
Wayne,you are fortunate that your train room is finished which as you said goes a long way in keeping your layout clean.
Bear,not that I see your track cleaning car, I seem to remember making one just like it many years ago and it worked really well.
What I did on mine was to glue a couple of pennies to the tops of the dowels that connect to the bass wood pad. This puts some pressure on the pad. I also check the pad every now and then and
if need be I lightly sand the bottom of the pad to remove and gunk it picks up.
I think the bottom line here is this- if whatever method you are using to clean your track works for you then keep using it.
In my case I have forgotten a lot of the methods I used over the years this being layout #4. This also accounts for some of the questions that I have been posting especially
in the blogs section.
Thanks again

[teejay]

I use a Bright Boy type of cleaner and periodically sand it to remove any built up crud . I agree that trying to keep a clean environment , if possible , will keep dirty track to a minimum ....like no smoking for starters .

[Charlie B]

I use the ATF. ATF is not oil for one thing, and it has a detergent in it. I have used about 12 drops for a thousand feet of rail over the past 3 years and it does not attract dirt that I have noticed. This is one of those you have to try to believe. I have 2% grades and the amount is so miniscule I see no slippage.
From Wiki: Modern ATF typically contains a wide variety of chemical compounds intended to provide the required properties of a particular ATF specification. Most ATFs contain some combination of additives that improve lubricating qualities,[2][3][4] such as anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, detergents, dispersants and surfactants (which protect and clean metal surfaces); kinematic viscosity and viscosity index improvers and modifiers, seal swell additives and agents (which extend the rotational speed range and temperature range of the additives' application); anti-foam additives and anti-oxidation compounds to inhibit oxidation and "boil-off"[5] (which extends the life of the additives' application); cold-flow improvers, high-temperature thickeners, gasket conditioners, pour point depressant and petroleum dye. All ATFs contain friction modifiers, except for those ATFs specified for some Ford transmissions
I don't have to clean locomotive wheels either, including the old blue box Athearns.
Now when I say 12 drops, I mean what comes out of an insulin syringe and I spred that one drop with the needle the lenth of track that would do the circumference of a locomotive pilot wheel, and on each rail of my four track main. What has been applied here has worked its way around the 2 50 feet industrial tracks and yard tracks. The fluid left in the cap of a quart bottle after opening will be all you ever need in most cases.
Charlie
I have a couple sections of brass on the industrial sidings and haven't had prolems there, but in this case I figure it is just a matter of time.
Charlie

[River Witch 14]

Charlie-thanks for clearing that up about ATF. I stand corrected.
Given the fact that my layout is small,I think for now I will stick with the use of a bass wood block as indicated in my opening statement.

[nachoman]

The ATF method is basically the same idea as the Wahl Clipper Oil method. I actually tried a drop or two of plastic compatible Labelle oil, just to see, and it did work, although traction on the grade was a bit less.

I have a masonite cleaning car that I use on the mainline. And since my layout is small, the rest is simply rubbing alcohol a rag and my hand.

[JaBear]

Bear,not that I see your track cleaning car, I seem to remember making one just like it many years ago and it worked really well.
What I did on mine was to glue a couple of pennies to the tops of the dowels that connect to the bass wood pad

Hmmmm, not sure why you can't see my photo but we are talking about the same thing. Living in an active geothermal area with hydrogen sulfide playing havoc with electrical continuity, we tend to run track cleaning cars as part of the normal consist, 5 or six cars with masonoite pads can cause enough drag without adding weights to the pads.
If there is an upside, nickel silver track gets the weathered look without any effort from myself.
Cheers, the Bear.

[River Witch 14]

Bear-sorry about that. I was able to see your track cleaning car. Just a typing error on my part. I have arthritis is my hands among other places so sometimes
my hands and fingers don't work too good. Tends to be a real pain when I'm trying to work on layout projects.
Given the small size of my layout,I think one track cleaning car is adequate.