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Hi Everybody,
it's been a bit since I've been on here last, been busy starting a family and a new layout. Nothing big (24'x20' - double decker). Yeah, it should be maybe halfway done before I retire  Anyway, I need some help with an electrical issue. Here's the issue. I've got two tracks that split into 4 (two switches right next to each other). Currently, those two tracks wrap behind a helix (hidden) and come down to 1 track (switch installed on the other end). On both tracks, as soon as the unit crosses over either of the switches, I loose power. Couple of factors to point out. I've soldered every joint (yes, including the switches), I'm using just a Tech throttle for now, I've got a 3 -way switch attached to end of 3 tracks and the north most track has a bumper on the end of it. Here's the kicker though. Before I ballasted the track (yesterday) I had power and no problems. I was able to run the engines all the way through the 3 way switch. Now, I can't. I've looked for anything shunting the tracks (metal hitting both tracks, bad solders, I've ran different units on both tracks with the same problem, hell, I've removed the bumper thinking that was the problem, but that's not it. I'm at a total loss. I had everything soldered and before ballasting, things worked fine, now it doesn't. I can't Imagine that I need to have feeders on tracks after they have been ballasted to prevent dead spots. Do I need to have feeders on those other tracks when everything else is soldered? I 'm not understanding how I can have the power one day, and the next day I don't. Or should I say, how I can have power on one side of the switches and nothing on the other. These are code 83, DCC friendly switches. Am I just missing something?? Please help 
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WAG. The switches are power routing. A little glue in the points, or a speck of ballast preventing the switch from being fully thrown. Ergo, dead spot past the switch. I'm going back to watching my House reruns now, I like to help with his DDX. 
Cid
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Checked the points, they fit nice and tight, the throw rod, frog and wingrails are clear of ballast and glue as well.
Posts: 31
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Update: I've found that if I crank the power almost all the way up, I'm able to move my units through this "dead spot". I can't understand why I would need to drop feeder wires, when all of my joints are soldered.
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Can we assume it's an open circuit and not a short?
Get a piece of wire and use it a a jumper after your train stalls.
after the train stops, put the jumper on one rail where the train ran and touch it to the same rail where the train is. If the train starts, then try moving the jumper up close to the back of the train (I've said train; read locomotive) and see where it starts.
If the loco doesn't start, repeat using the other rail.
I suspect that there is glue and/or ballast where the points meet the rails.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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After reading what you have done, have you made 100% sure the tops of the rails are clean? If you have a voltmeter - that you can use to see EXACTLY where you have voltage and where you do not?
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No matter what scale I was working in.. I have always installed jumper wires around switches. From the track closest to the power supply to the other 2 tracks.
Have you tried sanding the frog points to be positive that there is no glue there? Both the points and the rails they mate to.
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Well, buckykatt, I'm really wondering what you found!! Almost gotta be glue insulating the points circuits somewhere! Hope you found it and let us know...
Cid
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Also , what brand track and type of turnout are you using? Peco for example, makes insul frogs, and electrofrogs. Both require slightly different wiring.
Also it is always advisable to solder some jumpers accross on the bottom , this will prevent your power to be reliant on the stock rails, a little bit of dirt will cause all sorts of frustrations.
Here's a very useful link : <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm">http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm</a><!-- m -->
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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Very limited information,Would need to know what type of switch(brand name) and you need a volt meter,basic steps
will help you find the problem easier,make up a set of alligator clips with wire and attach clips before and after switch
then start moving them in closer together,Are You Using DC Or DCC,it doesnt sound like a short but lack of voltage as
you said you cranked up the controller to get a locomotive through it
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Hi guys,
thanks for all the advice. Sorry about not getting back to you sooner, but working for a Class 1 railroad and trying to raise a family, doesn't leave me much time for myself. Anyway, great advise leads to great results. Here's the update. First cid, I again cleaned those switches to the best that I could (I swear I'm going to have the shiniest switches anybody has ever seen! I found a small glob of Matte Medium stuck on the bottom of both switches (that explains why they wouldn't throw over to the adjoining rail very well (grr), not to mention the stalling on the switch. Next up - BR 60103, I tried your advice and I placed a wire ahead of and behind a single unit. I found that leading up to and just past the switch points I had power, but at the frog and beyond - nothing. I'd move the wires closer to the unit as you suggested...nothing. I again thoroughly cleaned the switches (points, frog, guardrails) and I noticed that this time, the engine moved over all three areas smoothly, then went dead. Hmm I thought.. ngauger when I "cleaned" the switch, I used my version of a LORAM RailGrinder - a sheet of P320 sandpaper (extra fine grit). My last attempt at cleaning the rails I used a washcloth with rubbing alcohol - it made the track look nice but as I found out, except for polishing the Matte Medium, it doesn't work well. Before using the sandpaper this time, my thought was "hell, if this doesn't clean the rail - nothing will." Next torikoos this is where your advice comes in. I double (O.K. - honestly triple checked) the switches that I'm using. All of my switches are Walthers Shinohara. I've debated on replacing them with Peco, but for the amount of money I have stuck into them (not to mention the amount of money I would loose probably trying to resell them, I've decided to stick with them. They are all insulated so it cuts back on the amount of wiring needed. So as it turns out, Matte Medium will get anyplace and everyplace you don't want it to go, and making sure I do some Railgrinding after I ballast takes away all the headache. Now, my units are running nice and smooth Now with maybe 1% of my layout done, I feel the need to build.
Once again, Thanks everybody
FYI - I'll be going out and buying a voltmeter this afternoon 
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For my wiring, I made a little tool out of a few Grain of wheat bulbs, a terminal strip, and some alligator clip wires. I set it up so that there are 3 clips and a couple or three bulbs over them. One clip on the outer rails and one on the frog. Then I turn on power and move the points back and forth. With a plastic frog, it might take and extra clip.
I originally made it to make sure my frog wiring was the right way round.
When I'm ballasting, I mist the ballast area with denatured alcohol, then add matte medium or scenic cement with an eyedropper just on the ballast. usually a couple of drops between ties and a line along the outside edges. I don't spray glue over the rails.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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Use a little bit of oil like Labelle on the points, stock rails where the points make contact, and at throw bars and any place that the switch points need to move before you ballast. Matt medium will not stick to the oil.
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