MDC/ROUNDHOUSE locomotive rebuilds

[nachoman]

Wow, you are right, those smaller drivers look quite silly. I think the old time 2-8-0 has 51" drivers, and the Harriman 63" - a bit large for a typical 2-8-0.

[doctorwayne]

The CNR had over 300 N-class Consolidations with 63" drivers, and I'd guess CPR might have had a similar number (they were a big proponent of 10-Wheelers). The Harriman roads likely had an enormous number of high-drivered Consolidations too, the prototype upon which the MDC model is based.

My original Grand Valley had an MDC Consolidation:



...and also an MDC Ten-Wheeler:



While they were a bit on the noisy side, they ran and pulled well and their gearing kept the speeds more prototypical than many locos of that time.

Wayne

[cnrglen]

Thanks for posting the pictures, Wayne. Those will actually come in handy on the next leg on the project.

I was at a swap meet yesterday when I couldn't resist these:



I got them all for a really good deal.
A practically brand-new 2-6-0 old-timer 8$

a basket case 4-6-0 for 15$

and a basket case 2-8-0 for 12$


both the 2-6-0 and 4-6-0 are complete but the 2-8-0 is missing the gears and motor, not a huge deal.
I'll probably not use the 2-6-0 old timer and send it to another modeller but the other two will definitely enter the rebuild program.
Maybe I should re-title this thread to MDC/roundhouse engines rebuild?

[doctorwayne]

.....Maybe I should re-title this thread to MDC/roundhouse engines rebuild?

Done.

Wayne

[cnrglen]

Thanks again, Wayne.

I started with the 4-6-0, since I was going to keep this one and it's the most complete. I needed to see if the motor actually ran so I took the front truck and boiler off to check 'under the hood'

I found that the motor turned and ran freely with the idler/compound gear, but there was an enormous bind in the drive train. I also found that this is the earlier version that has 0-80 screws holding the side rods onto the drivers.

Well it didn't take long to find the bind. the pervious owner had bent the yoke quite severely and that was causing the guide rods to pull down and pinch the crossheads. I tried to gently bend the yoke straight but it broke in the process. Fortunately the 2-8-0 kit that I was given two weeks ago that was missing all the parts had the same yoke and I swapped that in. If I can't find the parts for that kit, it may as well become a parts kit for other engines. I've also discovered that the 2-8-0 and 4-6-0 Harriman models share many parts including cabs, boilers, drivers, steam chests and others.

I re-assembled the drive train without the motor and pushed it back and forth on the workbench, no binds now.

I also took a look at the gears in this engine. Black delrin and brass, could this engine have been retro-fitted with NWSL gears?

I re-installed the motor and compound gear and ran the engine for a couple minutes in forward and reverse it break it in a bit. it ran in both directions but was considerably noisier in reverse. It also has a small hitch in it's motion, probable due to loose axles in their slots. Not much I can do about that.

after running for a bit I striped everything down for paint stripping. Since the cab and tender are already painted in Canadian Pacific I left them and stripped the paint and everything else.

one last thing I noticed was that the end holes in the side rod are elongated, is that a factory design or would this be from wear on a layout?

[e-paw]

That looks like something is not right, the out of round ends may have been caused by the center driver being slightly out of quarter. I would check them all just in case, but if it's running alright ,you may be better off not messing with it. I have built a few of those engins, and none of them had siderods like that.

[sailormatlac]

Glen, in no time you're going to be a MDC rebuilding specialist.

I remember that CPR 4-6-0! I wanted one so bad when I was a teenager!

Matt

[doctorwayne]

.....one last thing I notices was that the end holes in the side rod are elongated, is that a factory design or would this be from wear on a layout?

I doubt that it's either: I've seen this done by the owners in an attempt to remove binds, either from drivers out-of-quarter, or binds elsewhere in the mechanism which they were unable to find.

Wayne

[Schraddel]

one last thing I noticed was that the end holes in the side rod are elongated, is that a factory design or would this be from wear on a layout?

Hello Glen!
That is no good. You are never never allowed to have horizontal oval bores in the side rods. This causes solid and dependable binds. Even if all drivers are correct in their quartering.


This little critter has made me a lot of headaches. One of these headaches was the existence of horizontal oval bores in the side rods.
Also this is the way to control the centre distances(?) (German: Stichmaß) of frame and side rods. They have to be of the same measurement to run without binds.
One of the possibilities to repair this, is to solder pieces of brass tube with suitable measures into the enlarged bores.

Lutz

[cnrglen]

Thanks for all your comments guys. As far as the rods are concerned, unless I find a new pair I'll just have to live with these for now. my skills working with brass are not good enough to make a new set or try to fill the holes in these.
Matt, I too wanted these engines as a teenager. My Father gave me a Roundhouse catalogue that I read until it started to fall apart!

Here's how the project stands now. An hour after spraying the parts down with easy-off oven cleaner and everything looks new. The previous builder did a pretty good job of cleaning up the boiler prior to painting. I also cleaned the driver wheels which meant I had to use my multi-meter to find the insulated driver wheel and mark it for later.

[nachoman]

I have both the 4-6-0 and the 2-8-0. They both run well, but a bit noisy. The 2-8-0 binds a little on 18" curves, and I think the solid side rods are the issue. I'm considering making segmented side rods and see if that solves the problem. The brass drivers get dirty very quickly, so adding all-wheel pickups to the tender trucks will help.

I also found that grinding off the cast-on piping and air tanks and replacing with brass details greatly improves appearance.

I wish these kits were still produced.

[sailormatlac]

Matt, I too wanted these engines as a teenager. My Father gave me a Roundhouse catalogue that I read until it started to fall apart!

The story of my life! I still have my old catalog. I craved over the old time rolling stock and locomotives.

I wish these kits were still produced.

MDC's small and medium size steamers offering was so large. I wish we could have the same amount of selection nowadays for decent small steamers.

Matt

[Schraddel]

I'm considering making segmented side rods and see if that solves the problem.

If there is any interest, I have started a new thread showing how to address this issue.

Lutz

[cnrglen]

Thanks for the Link, Lutz. I'm still hoping to track down a new set of side rods though (which would be a whole lot easier.

I just ordered two sets of injectors and boiler check valves from Wiseman model services for both the ten-wheeler and the consolidation. I'm pretty sure I have other Detail parts in my collection that I can use on these.

I am also considering swapping the motor/ gear from the ten wheeler to the consolidation since that engine has no binds or worn side rods.

[cnrglen]

I had another project on the side that I had to complete but now I'm back with the 4-6-0

I spent some time this evening with my dremel tool's sanding drum and some sanding sticks and ground off the cast-on injectors, steam lines and sanding lines. The grinding isn't perfect but the new lines will go right over and hopefully cover the remnants. I also cut/ground off the cast-on bell.

I got a package in the mail this past week from Wiseman Model services. In it were cast brass injectors, water check valves and a power reverser. I'll start installing these and the accompanying water/steam/sand/air lines.