How do you build up fine turf (ground cover)?

[buckykatt1]

Hi guys, well I need to call upon your skills once again. For all the help I've received in the past, I've done a pretty good job (I think) on my double deck layout (I've only started, but hey it's better than nothing =-).

I've run into a slight problem (probably pretty common), but I can't find a way around it. I've looked in my issues of Model Railroader and well, that's why I'm here. Here's what I've got. I recently started to add buildings to my layout. I'm trying to build up turf (ground cover) if you prefer to call it, around the structures and by the track but I've ran into a snag. I'm using scenic cement and Woodland Scenics Fine Turf Earth. I'll have an open area, saturate it with the scenic cement, and then spread the fine turf on. Now, after the fine turf dries (usually 24 hours), I'll take a paintbrush and brush off the excess (whatever didn't stick). When I noticed that I needed to add more ground turf to the first layer (some spots would be a little light) I would spray more scenic cement down...and that's when the problem starts Even if I stay back a good 3-4 feet from the layout, when the scenic cement would hit the turf, it would start to clump it up. What am I doing wrong? :? I can't seem to be able to add additional layers without some clumping - then it becomes a real pain because I can't get a realistic looking ground without having mini chunks of ground turf everywhere. I'm using a Scenic Spray bottle. Could that type of spray bottle be the problem in itself? I've used numerous scenic spray bottles, but the problem still remains. Also, with that said, how do I seal it all in when I'm done? I've got a 2 year-old future model railroader in our house, and I don't want to get ground cover all over the place (let alone have a derailment and get my cars or engines gooped up.

Any help as usual will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

[Catt]

You need to wet the ground foam with water (add just a bit of dish soap to it.Do this before you add fresh turf.Then using a syringe just apply your glue to the spots you've added the fresh turf.Actually I would dump the scenic glue and just use plain old white glue (Elmers) and dilute it about 50-50.Add a little dish soap to this too it will help break the surface tension and let the glue/water mix soak in.

[Disclaimer} This my method ,it works for me,but your mileage may vary.

[BR60103]

Similar to Catt
I don't brush off the loose stuff. I mist it with rubbing alcohol or isopropyl alcohol. I dilute mine to 50% or so. I mist it on with an old hair spray bottle. Then I dribble on the Scenic Cement. (I can't get the white glue bit to work.) Sometimes I spray it on -- depends on the area. If I'm working near a building, I use an eyedropper.
Then I add more shredded scenery, alcohol, cement.
If It's dried, alcohol, cement, scenery, alcohol, cement.

Spraying cement on dry scatter makes it either ball up or scatter.

When I do ballast, I definitely use the eyedropper along the neat edges.

[buckykatt1]

Hi Catt,
well I gave it a shot, kinda made it messy to start with. I used the "wet" water to water down the previous ground foam and then I ran into a snag. The clumping started again. I ended up using the same bottle for the 50/50 glue mix and it worked out better than I imagined. I realized that by using a regular household water bottle with a nozzle I can adjust from a hard spray, to a fine mist worked SOOO much better than that scenic cement nozzle (which was the problem the whole time). Thanks for the info. Now, I just have to wait until tomorrow (make that Monday, seeing how I saturated the area pretty good), to see the final results.

[doctorwayne]

Whether you're placing or adding ground cover or ballasting track, do so with the material dry, arranging it as necessary using a soft brush. Once you have it to your liking, use a good-quality sprayer to soak the area with wet water (ordinary tap water to which a few drops of dish detergent has been added). If your area has hard water, use distilled water, readily available at most supermarkets, or use the water collected in your dehumudifier (clean the collecting bucket beforehand ). A more expensive alternative would be to use 70% alcohol, which should also be further diluted, but don't use your crappy hard water here, either.
Aim the first few spritzes upward, letting the mist fall so as to not disturb the light material, then, once it's dampened, you can spray more directly. Don't skimp on the wetting, as this is what ensures that the dilute glue mixture will penetrate right down to the solid base of your scenery - otherwise, the material will float in the glue or the glue will dry as a crust, with the material beneath it still loose.
Don't waste money on Scenic Cement - ordinary white glue, diluted about 50/50 with water, works just fine and is a lot cheaper - if you're doing lots of scenery or ballasting, buy it by the gallon, as it's even cheaper. You can use an eye-dropper to apply it, but a larger container which allows application by-the-drop makes the job faster and easier - try ketchup or mustard squeeze bottles (don't squeeze 'em....you only need the glue mixture to come out as drops). As the drops hit the pre-wetted material, you'll see how readily the glue spreads and is absorbed into it. Do not touch it while it's wet, either with the dropper applicator or your fingers. Depending on the depth of the material, it may take several days to dry - there should be plenty of other things you can do while that's happening.
Once the glue has dried, there should be no loose scenic material lying about, and the sceniced area should be solid enough that it will withstand careful vacuuming when it eventually begins to gather dust. This characteristic is especially helpful on ballasted track, as controlling dust accumulation on the tracks will cut down on your track cleaning chores....I clean track only after ballasting or applying scenic material near the track, then vacuum it every year or two (or three ).
If you wish to add more scenic material, either immediately of the first application has dried or even years later, simply repeat the steps as outlined.

Wayne

[FiatFan]

If you don't have good air circulation in the room you could set a small fan up to move the air around. Don't have it blow directly on the new scenery but have it near there. This will help the area dry more quickly.

Tom

PS we would like pictures, please.

[Charlie B]

I'll add to Wayne's post as he has it right 100% but I will stress the importance of WET!!!!!When I do scenery if the glue mixture doesn't flow out of the area I don't feel it is wet enough. That goes for gluing ballast too, and I buy Elmer's white glue by the gallon. I dilute it 50-50 with windshield wiper fluid, the blue stuff. The blue does not show much in the finished and dried product.
Charlie

[BR60103]

A video from Model Railway Scenery

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