An OMI brass caboose - also a good model?

[modelsof1900]

A short time ago I have written here in Big Blue about my newly purchased Norfolk & Western caboose of class CG, a model that should pull my freight train of the Thirties with my M2 loco of N&W.



I was sure that I had done a good deal with this model which was built by Ajin in South Korea and was imported by Overland Inc. - however I was very disappointed! It's looking well detailed however this was only the first impression. Look the problems please, which I found on the model.

Yes it's correct, the first impressions were good - however this was the first problem, the model is a very bad runner! However I searched for pictures and a great source are the archives of N&W Historical Society, where I found a lot of documents and pictures about this class CG caboose (and also a lot of differences at this model). I'm planning to use this model with a 1930 train so I will install the more correct Bettendorf trucks of that time with leaf springs and so all running problems should be eliminated. Two different truck types are ordered, Tichy Bettendorf trucks with leaf springs and Kadee self-centering caboose trucks. All pictures shows that these cabooses were equipped with these trucks. Maybe that the cabooses received these swing-motion trucks in later years, however I do not need them. With this the first problem is solved however this was one of simplest one!
A few more checking showed on underside an AB-brake however with a lot of not fixed connections at brake gear, a fat hole for a missing part and some more incomplete details.



Here the most noticeable mistakes.



A free hanging rod and open holes at levers of brake gear.



A pull rod to hand brake with sharp bends (!) and missing connections to the both hand brake shafts at platforms.



The most noticeable mistake is visible at left lever which has been cut off by a plier in order to give the truck enough play! However which relative short car needs such a spin for the trucks?
The hole is prepared for fixing a sink which I found in a parts bag, however a fitting screw was not inserted. Also I had to search a well fitting screw and I think that I have a lot of different screws. I don't understand because the sink was not fixed to model?



The more closer you look at the model, the more defects you will discover! See bolsters and cross beams here - nothing more than the cover sheets!
However this is not all! The real troubles became visible as I checked and compared this model with the drawings of archives of NWHS - here a link to a related search.
Unfortunately I can't show these drawings here in this post because of restricted permission rights. However you can see these related blue prints on a gallery of my website. I was very interested to study these documents in a high resolution version and so I ordered them for private use on my website by paying a small fee to NWHS. The result was very surprisingly!

I found on documents of this class CG caboose underbody arrangements with a K-brake and also with an AB-brake, however with a very different arrangement! Exactly this underbody arrangement which was built to the model was to find on two different caboose classes, the CH class and the C2 class. Used the producer here an underbody of other caboose models which he produced also? Unfortunately I can't give an answer on this question, however I know that this underbody is wrong! Maybe that the N&W modified brakes in later years how brakes must be changed from K-Brakes into AB-brakes after restrictions of AAR for K-brakes? However definitively ist this model with this brake is not that what I would like to use for my 1930 train! At this time the cabooses of CG class were equipped with the original in 1927 built K-brake!

There were only one conclusion together with all the mistakes of the underbody of my model - I must remove all the brake components and construct a complete new brake, a K-brake of course and maybe exactly built after the blue prints. And about this I will write in next post.

[BR60103]

Bernhart:
One problem often found on models (or it used to be) is that the prototype plans showed the underbody fixings as from above and the modelmakers used it to detail the floor from the bottom.
I can't say if this happened here.

I've avoided metal cabooses as they seem to be heavier than the whole rest of the train. And if the wheels are stiff ...

[teejay]

I have a similar HO brass kit but made by Precision Scale , Montana and distributed by Athabasca Scale Models in Saskatoon , Saskatchewan , Canada . It's a bit more modern in design , 50's 60's Canadian National 79350 Van . I've only partially completed it ....still have to buy trucks and wheels. I do like the kit and enjoyed the build up to where I left off . It doesn't feel particularly heavy so far but I still have to add wheels and trucks .

T

[modelsof1900]

David,
yes, all blue prints which I found are drawn in this view on top mode. Compare the first drawing on my website in it's original view.
For avoiding each irritation I turned over these main parts of my plans and so I have got a good base for comparison of my model with the construction prints. However I can't say how other models are built, this is my first brass caboose.
The bad running quality is a really problem of many brass trucks at this and other brass models. I have inserted new nylon axle bearings in the bearing boxes in all cases or I will replace the trucks by correct ones as here on this model. Compare also this picture with the trucks and the inserted nylon bearings of a reworked depressed center flatcar.



The center axle did not receive new bearings, it runs now as idler axle in its a little enlarged original holes.

[modelsof1900]

First of all I removed all original brake parts, bolsters and cross bearers received fillers from styrene for avoiding the free perspectives under the frame.
And I mounted a new brake cylinder, a part made by Red Caboose.



Next picture was shown in a other thread already but it must be here inserted again - the new brake gear.
This was a work how all my other brake installations also however with one extension - the slotted guide as a replacement part for short chains how they are used in regularly cases as connection from hand brake to brake cylinder lever. However this guide is exactly built after the blue prints of this caboose and it was a very complicate to be built part. I have begun six times with this part without to have an usable result. At end this is the eighth attempt which I could use here.



Here the brake was mounted onto underbody and all supplementary parts are added, lever guides (or lever carriers how I have read in an older Car Builders Cyclopedia?) and the connection pipe from main line to brake cylinder. All these parts are riveted onto frame or I use additional to CA glue small wire bolts which are pressed into pre-drilled holes. So it looks like real rivets and I hope for stable fixed parts without damages while "playing" after finishing.



A look with the old original brass trucks while the new ones are yet on their way over the Great pond.



Here again this picture in an enlarged view.



Sorry for my own lovingness however it was a complicated work and it was the most detailed brake which I have built. Here you see also how I built the cross lever for the hand brakes, shortened - however without a radical cut off how the builder it has done on original model. (On left end of frame is seen the builder sign still!)

Next step will be some smaller modifications on body and after I will show some new pictures again.

[sailormatlac]

At first when I read the title I thought the model overall dimensions were off or some other very obvious and hard to repair mistake. I was relieved to see the worst was the brake gear... only because I know you are a master at making those intricate mechanisms. I'm pretty sure your new brake gear exceed in quality any "correct" brass model level of detail. The workmanship is wonderful.

Did you find out what is the missing piece fitting the large hole? I see you plugged it.

Matt

[modelsof1900]

Matt, thank you very much for your interest and your comment.

The large hole in frame was for fixing the sink which I have mounted now.
The other holes (new and now plugged) were used for fixing the old brake parts, air reservoir (visible in last picture), triple valve and brake cylinder.

[modelsof1900]

After finishing the underbody details there was not to do many changes on the model.



Again a picture of the model in its original condition. Do you see the frames of windows with a very small depth in the side walls? Here I would like to have a better view.



First I removed out all window frames of side walls and added 0.5 mm (0.02 in) filler frames for a bit more thickness of walls.



This is the model with new frames for the windows and I think that the thicker side walls are well visible. The dome windows in running direction are unchanged because they were mounted on outside of dome and so the impression is very close to prototypes.



Now the last two additions. The train-end lanterns are mounted on roof end (drilled and prepared for lighting) and I replaced the original Carmer coupler lifting levers against more prototypical ones. The original levers were very untypical looking and simple bent brass strips only.
Now I think that all is done - out of mounting the right Bettendorf trucks with leaf springs, however I wail now since near to two months for delivery from my "personal" dealer. After the model will go to my painter. Maybe that I can show the painted and lettered model already with next post.

[sailormatlac]

Excellent rebuild Bernhard. Once again, your dedication to very small details really helps to improve the realism. Can't wait to see it painted and lettered.

Matt

[modelsof1900]

Thanks, Matt.
Yes, I hope really for a fast finishing in next time.

Some days ago I rebuilt the end-of-train light on a model of a friend and here is a short video how I did it - Car lighting without electronics
Same I will do on this caboose with the difference tat I do not install a battery but I use a power pickup from the rails because I'm sure that I will use the caboose only on DCC systems.
I think that this way is a very cheap one and very simple to unstall for all types of car lighting also without (function) decoders.

[modelsof1900]

An OMI brass caboose - also a good model? - Yes, it is!
The first pictures after a good painting by a friend and after a subtle weathering by a socond one ...





... including two caboose men. I think that both friends have done an excellent work!





And what can be seen of these both men if the caboose will be completed?
Now the last steps must be done - inserting the windows, adding the inner lighting and the most difficult work, adding LEDs into the train end lanterns - if possible without damages of the color, please!
Of course, some more parts of the interior are to add, a stove and beds which must be glued direct into the body.
Is that all now? No, a little bit work at the handbrake and adding of handholds inside yet.

[faraway]

They did a great job on your great caboose.
I assume the lanterns are brass too. That makes it not easier to get SMD LEDs installed without an electrical short. In worst case can you buy such lanterns with preinstalled LEDs. The model is it worth

[modelsof1900]

Reinhard, thanks!

This is not the first model where I will add SMD-LED into brass lanterns however It's a bit difficultly because I must mount some wires under the roof and I must solder inside of body again in corners where switches and capacitors are fixed already. And after the work this all ought to look like new. And second is there a risk to produce a short with the enamelled magnet wires and the brass body. And at end all this ought to work after the first installation, maybe!

[doctorwayne]

Bernhard, your friends apparently paint and weather with the same calibre of skills with which you do your work, and the three of you make a very good team.

Wayne

[modelsof1900]

Doc, many thanks! I will transmit your compliments to them!