HOn3 2-8-2 in the works...
#16
I added some smokebox detail by embossing some thin brass with a small punch in a pin vise. I also cut some cab windows, made a headlight platform, and added a headlight from the scrap bin.


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#17
On my narrow gauge 2-6-6-2, I decided to try something "new".
I mounted the motor in the tender, with a universal drive shaft, connecting it to the gearboxes in each frame.
In this photo:
   
The motor is mounted to this "sled" which inserts into the tank of the Vanderbilt tender,( attached to the end of the tank ) and is held with a screw under the tank, between the tender frame pieces. the shaft, with the universal drive slotted cup, attached to the motor shaft . The gearbox shaft will run under the cab floor. I got the parts for this drive from Northwest Shortline ( http://www.nwsl.com ) The "can" motor is one of their products.
Hope that helps.

Here' a shot of the 2-6-6-2 { I really need to get back to this project.....but I have a tern to finish first } as it is right now.
   
There is still a "bit" of work needed on the chassis, as there is :x binding in the side rods :x

Here, front to back:
The 2-6-6-2, my 2-4-4-2, my 2-8-2, and behind those, a brass Sumpter Valley RR 2-6-6-2
   

Now, you have some idea of why I'm following this, and praising what you have accomplished so far. I know just how difficult, and how much fun, this project can be, and I see some beautiful work being done here. Eagerly awaiting your next post.
Pete
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#18
S-250:

I love that lineup! What motivated you to put the motor in the tender?
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#19
nachoman Wrote:S-250:I love that lineup! What motivated you to put the motor in the tender?

1. There's a lot less "details" on the tender, so it is safer to work on the motor or replace it ( yes can motors do die ).
2. the boilers of HOn3 locos are too small in diameter to put a decent motor inside,{ the boiler of the outside frame 2-6-6-2 is 1/2" plastic water pipe } and I wanted to fully detail the back head, and cab interior. { It looks better than the back end of a motor } Wink :mrgreen: Wink
3. Where the tender wheels are part of the electrical pickup, the motor being there improves the tender wheels contact with the track, and I can add more weight to the loco for better pulling power.
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#20
Sumpter250 Wrote:
nachoman Wrote:S-250:I love that lineup! What motivated you to put the motor in the tender?

3. Where the tender wheels are part of the electrical pickup, the motor being there improves the tender wheels contact with the track, and I can add more weight to the loco for better pulling power.

Interesting. We often see it with old time 4-4-0, but with a longer and larger loco like yours, it must work well.

Matt
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#21
sailormatlac Wrote:Interesting. We often see it with old time 4-4-0, but with a longer and larger loco like yours, it must work well. Matt

It does, until there's a motor failure. :o Icon_lol
With the "sled" motor mount ?
1- remove sled retaining screw
2- remove sled and motor from tender
3- remove motor from sled
4- install new motor, and connect leads to the two wires ( water feed pipes from tender to loco )
5- Test, lube, and run.
With a standard "box" tender, it is a little more complicated.
Right now, the 2-4-4-2 has a dead motor.
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#22
Kevin this looks very interesting to me, look into the grab box and recyle the parts which where otherwise junk. Thumbsup

Lutz
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#23
Sumpter250 Wrote:...
1. There's a lot less "details" on the tender, so it is safer to work on the motor or replace it ( yes can motors do die ). ...
Sumpter250,
the can motor what you have pictured, seemed to me like an coreless coil type can motor.
These motors like rpm's and one of the reasons which causes them to die were too low gear ratios. This in conclusion with pulling long trains at low speeds will overload them an cause overheating of the brushes and collector also. At least the magical smoke consisting of the melting plastic collector carrier will escape Crazy

[Image: dsc020471jr6o.jpg]
Melted collector carrier. Right before was the rising of magical smoke to observe which has a very "electrical" smelling.
This just also can happen inside a can motor.

In my humble opinion the best way to avoid those frustration is a gear ratio of 1:36 , better 1:40 or even 1:50 and a free running mechanism.

Lutz
Cheers Lutz
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#24
Added a compressor and some piping.


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#25
Occasionally during a build like this, one must put all the components together to see if things are still fitting. So here it is. Major things left to do include the mechanism. I still haven't figured out exactly how I want to mount the motor or NWSL gearbox. I've been using PCB board for bottom plates to that I can easily add power pickups on the drivers, but because of the width of the gearbox, that may be tricky in this case. Other than that, things are fitting together quite well. I have most of the piping installed, but still need a few pipes under the cab.


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#26
Definitely looking better all the time ! Big Grin Thumbsup Applause
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#27
I'm using valve gear components that I bought on the Bachmann parts website for the USRA 0-6-0. I figured the dimensions would be closest to what I am building and would require the least modification. When I got it, I realized it would require more modification than I thought, so in the long run it may not be worth it. I already knew the main rods would be too long, so I was already planning on modifying them or using main rods from an old MDC kit. I started with the MDC rods, and they were maybe about 1/8" too long. I tried to modify them, but they are cast white metal and broke. So, I took the Bachmann rod, shortened it on the end where it attaches to the crosshead, and glued the detail from the MDC rod onto the end that attaches to the driver crank. I also soldered a small washer on the crosshead end to serve as reinforcement. The Bachmann rod also offers an advantage because it is stamped brass and thinner. This will provide a bit more clearance that may come in handy considering I am using drivers that have a standard-gauge tread width on an HOn3 loco.


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#28
Looks really good so far. You did a great job modifying the rods.
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#29
Very nicely-done, Kevin. Applause Applause Applause Applause

Wayne
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#30
The tender is about done Goldth

Just a cut-down Bachmann tender...


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