MWaz Get off your duff challenge
I've never had any problems with Scalecoat I on plastic when it's applied with an airbrush. It's very similar to Floquil in that respect, and I thin both using lacquer thinner.

Ok, that's good to know. I'm treading into new territory here with the Scalecoat I paint. I've only used Scalecoat to paint metal surfaces so far. And I've read a lot of unfortunate results when used on plastic. Just wanted some assurance that I was not going to end with some melted plastic goo ball. Life was much easier with Pollyscale.

It seems that everyone has different experiences with Scalecoat 1 and the old floquil. I've never had issues with either attacking plastic, with the exception of an old Floquil rattle can that laid the paint too heavily on a model.
I do agree with laying down a layer of primer first, though. If not to only make your top coat shade universal.
Wayne, what is your mix ratio with the lacquer thinner? I've been doing a 50/50 mix with the Scalecoat 1 thinner.

It's been quite some time since I've used Scalecoat, but I'd guess at anywhere between 30%-50% thinner. I'd start at 30% but for me, it's usually more of an instinct method than any set formula. Misngth
In about a week-or-so, I'll be using Scalecoat on Part I of my Challenge...I might have more to say on it after that. Crazy

Scalecoat offers a very tough finish, but its long drying time is ill-suited to my usual painting practice for locomotives, which is normally to work in multiple colours for various parts of the locomotive, switching back and forth as I paint. With paints such as Floquil or Pollyscale, which dry to the touch very quickly, it's easy to handle an object so that you can get coverage from the best possible angle, and it's also easy to touch-up areas of accidental overspray.
Scalecoat does dry faster (but not fast enough) when using lacquer thinner rather than their proprietary thinner, and it'll likely make painting time for that locomotive measured in days rather than hours.

I paint in my garage, about 100' behind the house, and the slow drying time will mean that I'll have to carry each painted piece (up to 14 of them, I think) separately back to the house, hoping that it hasn't become windy or started to rain or snow while I was painting. With Pollyscale, I could put all of the painted, but dry-to-the-touch stuff in a covered box, and bring it and my painting gear back in one trip, regardless of the weather.

While getting ready to put a primer coat on the boiler I realized I missed some details. I missed the hand rail that is on the sand dome, which I've now added to engineer & firemen's side.
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I also realized I didn't put doors in on the front of the cab. In some pictures I've looked at of the H-9, the engineer's side doesn't look like a full door, maybe like a barn door? Anybody got some input on that I'd be interested in hearing about that. And in some pictures doors look recessed and in others they look raised off the cab a bit? Again, if anyone one has any input on how to do these doors, suggest away. Right now I'm thinking of some really thin flat styrene.

Door areas:
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I also noticed when preparing for primer that the drip rails on the cab were installed incorrectly Eek (See previous photos in thread) Now corrected:
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Weather is going to be nice this week so at least I should be able to get everything in primer after the door detail is added. I did order a set of Calscale brake shoes which I need to install on the frame yet.
Looks like it's not likely that I am going to complete this challenge by tomorrow. But I am quite pleased with how far it's come since I joined. Especially seeing her out on the rails again. I plan on continuing the build and will make updates as I progress.

Mark, everybody who entered the Challenge will be included in the voting poll, even those of us :oops: Misngth who didn't get theirs completed. The way I look at it, the Challenge was to get us off our duffs, and it seems to have accomplished its purpose. I fully intend to carry on with mine, too, and document it in the same thread, and I encourage others in the same slow boat to do so too.

Had a couple of diversions come my way recently and haven't been able to move forward with the H-9 project till today. I found some really really thin styrene in my styrene drawer and was able to manufacture a door from it after a few tries.
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and was able to put it in place.
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Got a window made for the engineer's side too from one of the failed attempts at making a door.
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I also touch up a few things on the boiler that my big ole' fingers had messed up Eek and I think the boiler is now ready for priming. Applause
H-9 boiler gets a coat of primer today Thumbsup
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Lookin' good, Mark! Thumbsup Thumbsup

I always enjoy seeing this kind of work when the primer goes on, where all the disparate colours and materials come together as a single entity.

I'll second what Wayne said. This is the time when it all comes together.

I noticed that you have the Tamiya painting stand. I have one too but haven't used it yet.
I have the other stand they make too. I like them. I used to just balance things on spray paint can lids Eek Crazy Eek Sometimes with not so good results.
So, after a paint booth error and having to strip the tender down to bare metal, then another primer coat. I finally got to apply some good ole' DGLE to the Pennsy tender. 2285_ 2285_ 2285_
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Paint I used is Scalecoat I Brunswick Green with Scalecoat thinner. I had forgotten my good mix ratio and only mixed my first bottle with a 50/50 mix. Hence my paint booth error. Paint job looked like it had a bad case of acne. 2nd attempt was more 60/40 with much better results. It will need a couple more coats.
She's getting there. Nice to see some paint on her.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  

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