09-13-2020, 06:03 AM
Hello Tetters,
my humble attempt of an response.
Do I need to disassemble it? I'd rather not if I don't have to because a decoder is installed and I don't want to take it apart again. The whole engine needed to be re-wired...I get anxiety just thinking about it...
First my thought was to an unpainted brass loco, but when i saw you photo
Your loco is already painted!
So there is no need to disassemble it. The only exception in causa disassembling is the separation of loco and tender due to better handling while working on it. Here with P2K loco and tender are coupled by the means of a plug connection which simultanosly is not only the electrical but also the mechnical link. So uncoupling / coupling is a simple task.
What can I use to mask the windows? Would ordinary green painters tape suffice or do I need to use some of the fancy Tamiya stuff?
As an example, here in EU there Revell Colourstop is available: https://www.revell.de/produkte/farben-kl...-30ml.html
It must be available in USA / Canada also. And also Tamiya must have their own stuff of this. This is a Latex based dilution which can be applied with an brush and dries to a thin elastic skin. After painting the colour this skin can easily peeled off.
Do I need to primer it? I'm thinking a black primer might be better then a grey or maybe not?
As i wrote, your loco is already painted. The only stuff of primer you will need really is high gloss varnish only for those areas where the decals will be applied.
You will need engine black too. Small areas like the bright axle ends of the drivers, some rivets of the valve gear and other too shiny areas should be painted by an handbrush with black colour. If you use solvent based colours or varnish, there is no primer necessary. Take care for the wheel rims and wipers. They should be masked before painting, particularly when an airbrush is used. The other way is a meticulously cleaning of wheel rims and wipers from paint rests afterwards.
When the decals are applied, an overall finish with matte varnish is mandatory to fix the decals; no primer necessary.
Then you can start your weathering vodoo.
Lutz
my humble attempt of an response.
Do I need to disassemble it? I'd rather not if I don't have to because a decoder is installed and I don't want to take it apart again. The whole engine needed to be re-wired...I get anxiety just thinking about it...
First my thought was to an unpainted brass loco, but when i saw you photo
Your loco is already painted!
So there is no need to disassemble it. The only exception in causa disassembling is the separation of loco and tender due to better handling while working on it. Here with P2K loco and tender are coupled by the means of a plug connection which simultanosly is not only the electrical but also the mechnical link. So uncoupling / coupling is a simple task.
What can I use to mask the windows? Would ordinary green painters tape suffice or do I need to use some of the fancy Tamiya stuff?
As an example, here in EU there Revell Colourstop is available: https://www.revell.de/produkte/farben-kl...-30ml.html
It must be available in USA / Canada also. And also Tamiya must have their own stuff of this. This is a Latex based dilution which can be applied with an brush and dries to a thin elastic skin. After painting the colour this skin can easily peeled off.
Do I need to primer it? I'm thinking a black primer might be better then a grey or maybe not?
As i wrote, your loco is already painted. The only stuff of primer you will need really is high gloss varnish only for those areas where the decals will be applied.
You will need engine black too. Small areas like the bright axle ends of the drivers, some rivets of the valve gear and other too shiny areas should be painted by an handbrush with black colour. If you use solvent based colours or varnish, there is no primer necessary. Take care for the wheel rims and wipers. They should be masked before painting, particularly when an airbrush is used. The other way is a meticulously cleaning of wheel rims and wipers from paint rests afterwards.
When the decals are applied, an overall finish with matte varnish is mandatory to fix the decals; no primer necessary.
Then you can start your weathering vodoo.
Lutz