02-15-2023, 02:55 PM
Tom
I have converted over 80 locomotives and some of them were not easy but not impossible. Remember #1 the locomotive motor brushes must be totally isolated and supplied only with power from the decoder. wires to the track for pickup are red and black and it does not matter what side they come from it is the proper attachment of the orange and gray wires that determines forward and reverse The blue wire is positive and common to all lighting and the white wire is front and the rear light is powered by the yellow wire. there are other lighting terminals available too. Some are not wired. A good flux helps in all soldering I find the newer solder lacking in flux so I have a liquid flux pen that I use
For decoders I like the Digitrax DZ123PS which has a plug for DCC ready locomotives, just remove the dummy plug in the locomotive and plug it in. It will plug in 2 ways so make sure you do it right. I think the lights don't work properly if it isn't plugged in. If you shop around these can be had for less than 20 bucks each and some stores give a big discount if you buy 10.
The other locomotives that are not ready for DCC I like the NCE D13W. Pricewise under 20 bucks and sometimes you can buy 10 for less than 16 including shipping. They are small and rated 1 amp but I think they will tolerate a little more briefly. I generally take the time to lube all the locos and make sure they are free runners before I do the install, I also convert all of the locomotives to LED lighting which requires a resistor in line with the LED, I use 1/8 watt 1000 ohm.
You have to be careful that nothing touches anything it shouldn't of you will let all the smoke out of the decoder. The first couple hard wires will be a little hard until you get the feel. Having strippers that will do 30 ga wire, a good soldering station, good flux and shrink wrap are a must. Some guys use hot glue to attack the decoders, I prefer thin double sided foam tape.
There are many great videos on you tube watch a couple then do a decoder and rewatch the video. After doing one it is easier to understand the video
I know you have BLI locomotives too so they only need some programing (address) and start voltage etc. that is pretty easy and there is a program to give the settings for the two cv's that need change for a long address on some of the BLI locomotives
There are many here that will help you out. It seems like gobble Ly gook in the beginning but like everything else it comes easy after a little time using it.
Feel free to PM me if you need help and I will give you my phone number that you can call most anytime and I will walk you through stuff if you need help.
Charlie
I have converted over 80 locomotives and some of them were not easy but not impossible. Remember #1 the locomotive motor brushes must be totally isolated and supplied only with power from the decoder. wires to the track for pickup are red and black and it does not matter what side they come from it is the proper attachment of the orange and gray wires that determines forward and reverse The blue wire is positive and common to all lighting and the white wire is front and the rear light is powered by the yellow wire. there are other lighting terminals available too. Some are not wired. A good flux helps in all soldering I find the newer solder lacking in flux so I have a liquid flux pen that I use
For decoders I like the Digitrax DZ123PS which has a plug for DCC ready locomotives, just remove the dummy plug in the locomotive and plug it in. It will plug in 2 ways so make sure you do it right. I think the lights don't work properly if it isn't plugged in. If you shop around these can be had for less than 20 bucks each and some stores give a big discount if you buy 10.
The other locomotives that are not ready for DCC I like the NCE D13W. Pricewise under 20 bucks and sometimes you can buy 10 for less than 16 including shipping. They are small and rated 1 amp but I think they will tolerate a little more briefly. I generally take the time to lube all the locos and make sure they are free runners before I do the install, I also convert all of the locomotives to LED lighting which requires a resistor in line with the LED, I use 1/8 watt 1000 ohm.
You have to be careful that nothing touches anything it shouldn't of you will let all the smoke out of the decoder. The first couple hard wires will be a little hard until you get the feel. Having strippers that will do 30 ga wire, a good soldering station, good flux and shrink wrap are a must. Some guys use hot glue to attack the decoders, I prefer thin double sided foam tape.
There are many great videos on you tube watch a couple then do a decoder and rewatch the video. After doing one it is easier to understand the video
I know you have BLI locomotives too so they only need some programing (address) and start voltage etc. that is pretty easy and there is a program to give the settings for the two cv's that need change for a long address on some of the BLI locomotives
There are many here that will help you out. It seems like gobble Ly gook in the beginning but like everything else it comes easy after a little time using it.
Feel free to PM me if you need help and I will give you my phone number that you can call most anytime and I will walk you through stuff if you need help.
Charlie