Some more progress on the crossing shanties - I was going to cement some window blinds to the inside of the window frames before installing the windows, but the small gluing surface available derailed that plan. I installed all of the windows, then made some simple window blinds - these are easy to make, easy to install, won't curl over time like paper, and don't touch the "glass", so there's less chance of the cement marring those panes.
I used .015" sheet styrene, cut to various lengths - mine are mostly short, as the watchman needs to keep an eye on things. They're a little bit wider than the window.
After cutting them to size, I drag them, flat, over the sandpaper, to remove any raised edges caused by the passage of the knife.
Next, cement the top edge of the face of the blind to a strip of styrene - I used .020"x.040":
...and then cut apart the individual blinds and paint both sides, both side edges, and the bottom edge -
don't paint the styrene strip, though:
After scraping the paint from the inside wall above each window, use solvent-type cement to attach the face of the styrene strip above each window. In the view below, you can see how the blind to the right of the stovepipe is spaced away from the window "glass":
Here's the painted structure with its blinds installed:
The next task was shingling, but unlike Pete, I used Campbell's "Profile Shingles". These come on a roll, to be cut off in the required lengths. Their gummed backs are then moistened and they're pressed into place. However, since my roof is styrene, I wanted a stronger and longer-lasting bond, so used gelled contact cement. It's much easier to use than the regular variety, as most of the stringiness is avoided. The styrene roof was first prepped by brushing on a coat of lacquer thinner, followed by, after a couple minutes, a brushed-on coat of contact cement. While this was drying, I began brushing the cement onto the shingle strips after first placing them face-down on some newspaper. Make sure that they don't come in contact with any adjacent strips, as "contact" equals "cemented".
For these small roofs, I didn't bother drawing alignment marks, although they're a good idea for larger areas. Starting at the bottom, place the first strip so that it overhangs the eaves just slightly. The strips should also overhang at both ends by an eighth of an inch-or-so. With three roofs to shingle, I was able to work continuously (that's why you don't see any "under construction" photos).
After each strip was installed, the non-tabbed upper part of it was given a quick coat of contact cement, and by the time the sixth roof-side was so done, the first one was ready for the next strip. I tried to keep the bottom edge of the strip being installed so that it just slightly overlapped the top of the cuts in the previously-applied strip, but, as you can see, there were some variations:
After all of the shingles were in place, I fashioned roof caps using brown paper bag material - mine are about 2' wide, folded down the middle, then contact-cemented in place. A new blade was then used to trim the excess shingles from the gable ends. The ones around the chimney flashing were trimmed as they were installed. The roof caps were painted to look like metal, then the roof was weathered with various colours of Floquil, all applied with a brush. I used an initial coat of Flo-Stain Oak, followed by applications of greys, greens, boxcar red, orange, brown and black. Because of the multiple coats, the shingles have a slight sheen - I'll Dullcote the roofs when I do the final weathering of the structure. I was going to add more interior detail, but, even though these will be at the front of the layout, it's difficult to see even the stoves. I still need to add doorknobs, though, and perhaps some signs, and maybe some handrails to keep the crossing tender from wandering onto the track (two of these shanties will be installed between adjacent tracks, with minimal clearances - it was Management's idea that the proximity of passing trains would ensure that the crossing tender would
not be in the shanty while a train passed, but rather out on the road, flagging the crossing).
After the details are added, installation on the layout will be next.
Wayne