The layout has been on standby for some time now, nothing like a deadline approaching to get going again!

This weekend I allmost finished wiring my last section, only the main connections left now. However, when checking all the connections I found that another two of the Peco switches had failed, this is getting a little irritating to say the least..!

I fixed one of the switches yesterday, was able to dismantle it in place without removing the entire turnout. First I tried bending the small copper connector inside a little more, hoping that the extra pressure would make for a good electrical connection, but no such luck. After several tries I finally went down to the basement to get a spare switch, and replaced the connector inside. Didn't see any difference between the two, but it seemed to work... :?

This evening I'm having the exact same trouble with another switch. I have opened the switch and bent the tabs on the connector like I did on the first two, but I just can't get a good connection, so I'm probably going to replace this one as well. I beginning to wonder if using these Peco switches was such a good idea after all...

Svein

The last section is finished, finally!



This has been by far the section requiring the most work, not only because it has the most track feeders and turnouts, but also due to the unforseen failure of the Peco switches.

I have checked all the connections with the multimeter, but the track cleaning and final test run will have to wait until tomorrow. If everything is OK, it's time to put together the three sections so I can have something to run trains on whenever I need a brake from working on the control panel.

Svein

Hhmmmm....When you say Peco "switch"...Do you mean the turnout or Peco electrical components..??

I've got 40+ Peco Electrofrog "switches" (turnouts) on my layout and don't have any conductivity or track related problems...
I wouldn't advise anyone to use anything other than Peco....

P.D. Very nice setup..BTW. Wish mine looked somewhat like that...

Gus I have to agree with you, in 20 years I've never had a Peco switch fail. That is some very nice and neat wiring!

Thanks guys! I'm talking about the PL-13 auxiliary switch, mounted directly onto the turnout motor. I know, it doesn't make any sense, they're brand new, and the mechanical construction is so simple it should be allmost impossible for them to fail! But I used the multimeter and measured the resistance across the connecting pins on the switch, and the break was indeed inside the switch.

After several attempts trying to fix the connection by increasing the tension on the copper spring inside, I discovered that there were a thin, allmost invisible layer of dirt of some kind on the copper plating on the inside of the cover. After carefully scratching it off, I finally got the switches working again, but don't ask me how it got there in the first place.

Svein

I was refering to the turnout not the electrical switch. Glad you got it fixed.

Got started on the control panel today:



Instead of bying a lot of new stuff, I've decided to use what I have at hand. The toggle switches are DPDT, salvaged from a layout I dismantled for a friend some years ago. I will use these as turnout indicators, while the momentary pushbuttons activate the solenoid. The two DPDT's on the stub ended track in the center are for the programming track at the end, and the power feed of the track piece adjacent to it, but it would probably be better with a 4PDT.

The plywood sheet is 1.5mm thick, 20 x 50 cm (8" x 20"), and I've printed out the track schematics and trying it out for size. Not sure whether to keep it this size, or if I should try and reduce it a little without getting the controllers too close together. When the final size is decided, I'll make a box frame behind it, and maybe add some thin moldings around the edges.

I haven't yet decided on how the panel will look when it's finished. I'm thinking of using spray paint and masking tape to create the lines, but on the other hand maybe I'll just glue the printout onto the sheet and leave it at that. What do you guys think?

Svein

I used 1/8th inch Masonite for some of my panels, with computer printouts for the diagram. A club member works in an architects office and he designed and printed them for me. He made a revers copy also for the back side of the panel to make it easier to see whats what when the lid is open. The paper was glued to the Masonite with spray adhesive and a sheet of clear plastic was placed over the top. The plastic was salvaged from a plastic box lid and is held in place by the upper hinge screws and two rivets in the lower corners. I then drilled the holes for the push buttons using a 1/4 inch forstner bit in a drill press. This panel is 5x15 inches in size and the push buttons are at leased 3/4 of an inch on center or better for finger clearance. The box as fastened to the layout by two bolts with wing nuts, and electrical connection is made though a Jones Plug. This way it can be quickly removed if necessary. I also like to include a terminal strip so that wires can be disconnected for testing purposes in case of problem. Hopefully this may be of help.[attachment=10671][attachment=10670]

Svein Wrote:... The plywood sheet is 1.5mm thick,...

You may get problems with the close spacing of the switches/holes. I did a similar panel from aluminum with that close spacing some years ago.

Robert: That's a very nice setup! I really like the fold up top and the clean and clear wiring inside. The inside mirrored track plan also was a nice touch. You've given me a lot to think about, thanks!

Reinhard: You probably have a point there, I didn't think of that. Wouldn't want the panel to crack up at the very first touch..!

I'll do a redesign of the panel, and maybe I'll skip the plywood idea and instead find a sheet of aluminium or stainless steel or something. Nevertheless, it can't be much more than 1.5 mm thick, as the threaded part on the switches is very small, and I'll have trouble mounting them to a thicker sheet.

Svein

The control panel is finished:





Found a couple of cheap picture frames at a low cost store, figured I could use them. I kept the back plates to add some stiffness, the thin plywood is quite bendy alone, and cut away where the switches would be. On the left panel I've prepared for some extra accessory switches (lights and such) and drilled holes in the ply, the paper front isn't glued and can easily be replaced. The schematic was drawn in MS Word.

I haven't yet figured out how to fasten the frames, but it'll work itself out eventually. First I have to solder all the wires to the switches and get them organized in a way, the idea is to keep the panels removable for easy access if/when needed.

Svein

That is a clever "trick" to stay with the easy to work with thin plywood. The result looks very professional

Thanks, Reinhard. I'm actually quite pleased with the result myself, being my first try and all. The paper front is very exposed as it is now, I'm thinking of placing a thin sheet of plastic on top for protection, maybe one of those transparencies used for overhead machines or something.

Svein

Very nice, looks quite professionel !

Time is running out, deadline is here in less than two days..! hock:

Working on the control panel wiring today, all this cutting, stripping and soldering is really time-consuming and painstaking work. The goal is to be finished with the panel tonight, and make the final connections between the layout and the panel by tomorrow. I'm also building a pull-out shelf for the control panel, first I concidered using an ordinary keyboard shelf, but I decided to make my own instead.

If time permits, I'll make a temporary staging yard next to the layout, but this is not part of the actual challenge.

Svein