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Here's an article I wrote for my local club newsletter some time ago. Helped me to get going on scenery on my (now defunct) 4x8 layout.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ovar.ca/Articles/BatchelorDiorama/small_diorama_kick.htm">http://ovar.ca/Articles/BatchelorDioram ... a_kick.htm</a><!-- m -->
Andrew
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My name is Stephen and I want to give back to this great hobby.
So please pop over to my website and enjoy the free tutorials.
If you live near me maybe we can share layouts.
Have fun and God bless.
http://fsm1000.googlepages.com
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GREAT JOB Andrew
I liked how you used many diffeant techniques in making it
:mrgreen: .
-Deano
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Andrew, thanks for sharing this article. Some very useful information in there.
Oh, forgot to mention, the diorama looks great
.
Kurt
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Well detailed tutorial Andrew,
Thanks for posting it
Jacques
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Hey Steve [formerly Nazgul] nice to see you here. Great name by the way
LOL
My name is Stephen and I want to give back to this great hobby.
So please pop over to my website and enjoy the free tutorials.
If you live near me maybe we can share layouts.
Have fun and God bless.
http://fsm1000.googlepages.com
Posts: 218
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Joined: Dec 2008
That was a great tutorial and a great idea to make a little diarama. Little scenes like that is why I started our club's T-Trak layout, I felt that since people had lost interest in makeing big 2x4 modules, maybe they would be interested in making little 12"x8" scenes, so far, there seems to be a renewed interest. Like that it is small enough that finishing is "possible"
Scott
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Jesso Wrote:That was a great tutorial and a great idea to make a little diarama. Little scenes like that is why I started our club's T-Trak layout, I felt that since people had lost interest in makeing big 2x4 modules, maybe they would be interested in making little 12"x8" scenes, so far, there seems to be a renewed interest. Like that it is small enough that finishing is "possible"
That's funny. That's what I originally thought about the 2x4 modules, and why I switched to them...
Andrew
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I guess it is a grass is always greener on the other side thing. What I have found in our club is that the N Scalers don't mind the 2x4's but the HO Scalers hate their 2x4 module layout. The N Scale layout is much easier to setup however, that is probably why. The HO always has to be a rectangle and specific pieces have to go in certain places, where the n scale you can take as many or as few as you want.
Scott
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Jesso Wrote:I guess it is a grass is always greener on the other side thing. What I have found in our club is that the N Scalers don't mind the 2x4's but the HO Scalers hate their 2x4 module layout. The N Scale layout is much easier to setup however, that is probably why. The HO always has to be a rectangle and specific pieces have to go in certain places, where the n scale you can take as many or as few as you want.
The HO group should check out freemo (or fremo) standards and our local club (<!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.hotrak.ca">www.hotrak.ca</a><!-- w -->) for more ideas to break "out of the box". We rarely have rectangular layouts any more, and with the exception of modules that are designed to go together, every module can be placed anywhere in the layout.
Andrew
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Great article Andrew!!! When you say lightweight joint compound, do you mean Spackle? I have found that whenever I tried to carve it, I didn't have much success, and switched to regular drywall compound.
Val
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Val,
Yes, I am talking about the lightweight spackle - kida foamy stuff, looks like dessert topping. The container is very light compared to other premixed stuff.
I found that key to carving was to do it once it had skinned over, but was not dry. Waiting until it was dry did mean it was quite difficult to carve in comparison with regular compound.
However, if weight is a factor, such as on modules, it's the only way to go. The other advantage is that it is not a brittle as regular compound or plaster, so slight flexing (modules again...) is not as much of an issue.
Andrew