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Posts: 894
Threads: 56
Joined: Mar 2015
I'm going to go with the position of the structure in the first photo, it will work allot better in the space and be more visually attractive as well.
I do have a bit of cutting and splicing ahead of me:
I'm going to take the one storey part off so it will fit just a bit better on the layout, but that also means that I'll have to cut, trim and splice the two shorter end walls to make them match the taller end wall.
I won't be needing the three dock doors on the side facing away from the viewer so I have a plan to sand the door frames flush with the brickwork and
cover the lower part with some plastruct brick sheet I had laying around. the brick sheet is a fairly close match for the DPM brickwork.
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I pulled out the razor saw and sliced up the walls to my structure tonight:
I have noticed that the walls that I cut off had the brickwork wrapping around the end so I'll either have to carve the bricks back in or cover the now blank styrene somehow.
I took off two small strips on the top and bottom of the short end walls to make them match up with the tall end wall. I just have to splice them together now.
Now I was considering just covering the three dock doors with the brick sheet overlay but it's a bit too thick to look right. I can cut and remove that section and replace it with the brick sheet. I'm leaning toward that solution.
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You could always add brick inserts into the doorways to show that they were once there but were no longer needed.
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I did think of bricking the doors over but the building will be so close to the retaining wall in the back the they probably wouldn't have those doors to begin with.
I did come to a solution though:
I found a pair of DPM modular sections that I glued together and cut to fit the space. they haven't been glued together yet but you can see where I am going with this.
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I finished assembling the walls on my DPM structure:
I am considering cutting some of the panels of the roll-up door and adding and interior ramp for some added visual interest.
I also had to make some spacers for the splice strips and the ends since the DPM modular walls are about 1/2 the thickness of the original kit's walls. I'll start re-carving the brickwork on the ends next.
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Made some progress yesterday.
I assembled the walls to my structure yesterday. It spent the night clamped together so the glue set up well. on a smaller structure like this I find its' better to assemble the walls, then paint so the color will blend in around the joints.
I like how the back wall turned out. once it's painted you probably won't even notice the joints.
I was going to open the roll-up door but decided against it. With the building 3-4 feet away from the front of the layout, it's more of a background structure.
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I painted the brickwork on my structure:
I rattle-canned the building with a light gray primer, then dry-brushed Americanna's Heritage Brick and Brown Iron oxide onto the brick.
I still have to hand-paint the windows, doors and other masonry.
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I guess it's a little late now, but I literally just read an article where the modeler painted the whole building in a mortar color then used a flat stamp dipped in the desired paint color then applied the paint with the stamp and it perfectly covered the brick face. Touch up was needed but it covered a large area of brick without getting paint in the mortar joints.
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cnrglen Wrote:....I rattle-canned the building with a light gray primer, then dry-brushed Americanna's Heritage Brick and Brown Iron oxide onto the brick.....
Rscott417 Wrote:.....the modeler painted the whole building in a mortar color then used a flat stamp dipped in the desired paint color then applied the paint with the stamp and it perfectly covered the brick face.....
Yeah, there are several ways to get good-looking brickwork. I've not tried the stamp method, but have done dry brushing and also the application of drywall mud as mortar, after first painting the structure in the desired brick colour, of course.
Glen, your bricks look really good!
Wayne
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Thanks Guys, I've tried other methods of coloring brickwork as well. I usually just do what seems to work best at the time.
I painted the doors and windows to my structure:
If and when I build another DPM structure, I might try out painting the windows first and then masking them with the styrene plugs. Might be easier that hand painting everything after.
I'm going to paint the horizontal brickwork next in a concrete color, I'm going to try a bit of masking and airbrushing with that.
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I painted all the concrete on my building today.
I started with masking as much as I could on each wall, using 1/2" masking tape. Then airbrushing Model master Acrylic concrete.
then I went back and masked the smaller areas that the tape originally covered. It took about an hour to mask and paint everything.
Next is the window glass and the roof.
Not sure what kind of business this will be. I might have to paint a sign yet. Any suggestions? I don't have a Gern distributor yet.
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That turned out well, Glen.
cnrglen Wrote:...Not sure what kind of business this will be. I might have to paint a sign yet. Any suggestions? I don't have a GERN distributor yet.
I notice that you're not on the list of GERN modellers. If you're interested in some GERN-related advertising and such, PM your e-mail address to me and I'll try to send the material to you later tonight - there's probably at least three e-mails-worth of stuff. None of it is a large file size, but there's a fair amount of it.
Wayne
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I wasn't aware that there was an actual list of Gern Flux Modellers out there. Unfortunately the location of this building won't allow for it to be serviced by rail, but I suspect that since it is a small distributor we can have it delivered by rail and then truck.
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I added the sign to the building:
I first masked and sprayed the black, then added the letters with dry transfers. I can already see that it's 3% better than it was before.
I also added the window glass and the styrene roof sheet. It will get a tar and gravel treatment shortly.