Juneco Two stall enginehouse
#46
Thanks I have started working on this project again. Updates coming soon
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#47
When I last left off I had just installed the car shed and roof trusses. Now I'm working on the enginehouse roof itself.

   

I started to build the main roof trusses

   

All five of them. I stained them the same as the interior of the enginehouse.

   

Then I made the two main roof panels. as mentioned before I opted to use cardstock instead of the basswood sheet to minimise warpage. The shaded areas are the cut outs for the cleastory and smokejacks.

   

I also cut out the car shop and office roofs. These I used the supplied basswood. The car shop roof will be glued down but the office roof and main roof are designed to be removable. I airbrushed all the roof panels in depot buff and drew the guide lined for the eventual shingles.

   

I then added the small basswood guide blocks to the bottom of the roof trusses. These will center the roof over te side walls. Since I had added the extra stiffening stingers to the walls these blocks had to be located futher inward to clear.
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#48
Great shot showing your attention to minute detail, Glen. Just awesome work. I never would have thought of the window glass technique, so I have to mentally pocket that for the future.
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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#49
Thank you.
I did a bit more on the roof today.
   

I attached the rafters to the roof panels. One at a time I used some steel blocks to ensure each was straight and square. I also taped the two roof panels together.

   

The five rafters are inset from the ends and their location match up to the vertical beams in the side walls.  There is a different 'rafter' assembly for the ends of the roof.

   

Then I applied glue the the other side of the ratfer tops and pulled them down to mate with the other roof side.

   
   
when the glue was dry I flipped the roof over and tested it for flatness on the table, and then on the model itself. So far, so good.
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#50
I finished off the sturcture of the roof:

   

There is a half-rafter on each end, these are foe locating the roof front and rear. You may notice that I glued and then realized that I had to relocate them to compensate for the extra stringers on the walls. The rafters were supoosed to have a third piece conecting them at the bottom but I left it off. I also added, at the suggestion of another modeller, the extra bracing between the rafters to prevent any warping that may occur over time. This was done with 1/16 X 3/16 basswood strip.

   
I got on a roll this weekend and also built the Clerestory for the main roof. The sides are cast metal and the side and roof are wood.I used 5-minute epoxy to glue it all together

   

   

Fitting it to the roof required a bit of rimming out of the roof opening. It has a few gaps around it but the future shingles and trim will fix that.
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#51
Nice job.
Tom
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Ridley Keystone & Mountain Railroad
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#52
Thanks Tom.

I continued with the main roof detail by building the two smokejacks.


   

Each smokejack is built of 7 pieces of scribed siding that you cut out and glue together using the templates in the kit.

   

The two assembled smokejacks.

   

Then I painted the clerestory and the smokejacks with polly-s earth as a primer. I'm planning on paint the the clesestory's walls in boxcar red. The instructions say the prototype smokejacks were painted in 'Clapp's Fire-resistant paint'. I'm still trying to figure out what color that was. 

   

I then assembled the office roof. It too is meant to be removeable with it's own small rafters:
   

I'm working on the lighting now. I'm planning on having 4 led's for the main building, one in each corner.

   

These are some small, pre-wired led's and resistors that have a max of 12 volts. I tend to use 9 volts so the give off more of a glow that an intense bright light.

   

My plan is to run the wires inside styrene tubing, painted black to hide them somewhat. 

I'm thinking of adding two more for the car shed and something special for the office.
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#53
Can't wait to see that lit up, Glen. Then you add a couple of locomotives and that's going to be a highlight of your layout.
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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#54
Starting work on the lighting.
   

I added the styrene tubing for the lights. I found that 3/16 tubing worked best. I drilled a 3/16 hole part way into the bass and finished off with a #11 so the tube would bottom out without falling all the way through. I did this with the four in the main building, two in the office and one for the car shed.

   

   

The tubing was painted black and installed in the main building and office. These were all friction fits but I ran out of styrene and had to use brass tubing for the one in the car shed. That was a bt loose so I glued it. You can also see the pre-wired led in the tube.

   

I'm planning on fashioning some light 'shades' out of some styrene angle. I don't want the light to shine upwards that much in case there are some gaps between the removable roof and walls. I'll prbably glue the angle to the wall with some CA and use a dab of white glue to attach the led to the angle, just in case I have to change them out in the future.

   

As for the office, I found these flickering LEDs so I'm planning on having one regular LED and one of these in the office to simulate either some lighting going bad or an oil lamp.
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#55
I finished up with the lighting this morning.
   

As I mentioned before I attached the styrene 'shades' to the walls and then used a drop of tacky glue to attach the leds to the shades. I painted everything (except the lights) black.

   

Then came wiring everything into a central power pickup. It's not the neatest but it gets the job done. I made a second 'terminal block' for the lights and conected everything there. There's still an extra slot for any outside lights I may put in later. As I wired everything up I tested the lights so I would know it worked as I went.

   

And with about 6-7 volts running from an old power pack and the workshop lights on. I'll be running the lighting power at 9 volts so it will be a bit brighter.

   

And with the workshop lights off. They give off a nice glow without being overpowering.

   

Finally with the roof on. The shades seem to be doing their job at keeping the light below the roofline and in the windows. You can't see it in still photos but the flickering LED makes a nice effect in the office of an oil lamp.
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#56
I change my smoke detector batteries twice a year. This gives me a collection of nearly fully-charged 9V batteries (our detectors are wired into the house supply). I have one building with a 9V lighting circuit that I use the batteries in.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#57
In the past I used a 9 volt wall wart to power the lights on the layout. LEDs use such a small amount of power one wall wart will power the entire layout
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#58
I love the build, great modeling work there. No engine house on my future layout, so I'll live vicariously through those that can and do build them.
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#59
I think the lighting will add a very nice effect - especially if you detail the interior!
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Kevin
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#60
Did someone say detail?

   

I spent some time (a couple hours) cleaning up all the metal castings that came with the kit. You name it, it's got it. Right down to the bathroom sink. There's also about 7 figures that came with the model with varying degrees of fidelity. I'll paint them and decide weather I'll se them or not.

   

I primered the castings with a light gray. I'll be seperating them into different overall colors and re-painting before brush painting all the details. 
Should keep me busy for awhile.
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