Rainbows in the Lehigh Valley Gorge
The Bank Job.... 

Printed out a full set of 5 sheets that make up the FREE Crystal Lake Bank (courtesy of the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency) - that'll be turned into the 1st National Bank in White Haven.  I suppose because all of these buildings are free, they don't include a whole lot of extra pieces to build up the detail relief (around windows, doors, etc.), and you can certainly put together a flat face for each side of the building, but I'm used to Clever models with a bunch of layers that when applied, bring out architectural details and make the building more like a typical plastic model.  You can still do that with these kits - you simply have to print multiple copies of the sheets, cut and paste while building from the interior.  For instance, in order to give the windows the depth I like, I printed out 3 copies - the rearmost level has the lower sash, the 2nd level the upper sash and sash frames, the thrid level the window frame, and finally another layer for the window sill.  In the photo below you can see where I've cut out the sash frames on the main wall, and the layer below that is glued and placed under the main wall to give more depth.

   

Cutting carefully, using a paint pen or a marker to coat each cut edge, and gluing can make your building sides a lot more realistic.  If you want some shine to the windows, you can also attach clear cellophane tape on one of the layers (I didn't do that on the rear face of the bank, but I might to the front).  One easy side done...  The front has a good bit of gothic elements that will be a little bit of a challenge, but the right and left sides are about as easy as the back.

   
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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Todd, I would never have thought of layers. That makes a lot of sense.  This will be another one of your classics. 
I am looking forward to this one. 
Charlie
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Yes, the layers add "depth" which is desirable in modeling 3D buildings.  Unfortunately, adding that depth increases the number of prints you have to make and means the expenditure of much more time.  The kits from Clever (photo of two of their pages below) tend to be walls and additional layers on the same sheet (the metal roof and the add-on layers for the center ridge cap and individual seams are good examples), but those aren't FREE....

   
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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Looking good so far Todd.
Matt
Conrail's Blairsville Cutoff 
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Thanks, Matt!  

Among the several projects currently ongoing is the blessed sewage treatment plant.  I've now filled up the clarifiers with Realistic Water, and I think I already reported that the coffee grounds leached into the water-based poly that makes that stuff work - hence, brown water.  I didn't particularly want brown water in all three clarifiers, but I'm not starting for scratch.  Added some water effects to show movement of water and hit the high points with some white paint.  Ready for pipe and walkway installs...

   
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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The rain puttered along through the afternoon and even though I got drafted for vacuume duty, I was able to wire up a decoder to the Roundhouse chassis that will house my RS3 Hammerhead.  Got everything loosely connected and put it on the track - forward, backward, light on backward....  no light forward.  Hmmph...

Could have been either side of the LED hookup, so I picked the easy (negative) side.  Did a continuity check between the decoder plug (white pin) and the negative LED lead... Nothin'.  Checked the solder joint after peeling back the shrink tube - looked fine.  Hit it with the iron and freed it up.  Still no continuity between the end of the wire and the plug!  Checked for a break in the wire - seemed fine.  Checked continuity between the front of the plug and the back - all good...  Wiggled that white wire at the connector and .... pop.  Out it came.  Bad crimp apparently.  Popped the empty socket out the back side and attempted to solder to the back of it, but it's really too small to solder to.  Since the green pin isn't functional in this decoder I popped that socket out and plugged it into the "white" socket of the connector, resoldered and shrunk to the LED and FINALLY - up and running.

Got things buttoned up but didn't install the couplers yet - still have that weathering to do, but the junior Frankenstein seems to run well by itself.  All hail the Hammer!


   
Check out my "Rainbows in the Gorge" website: http://morristhemoosetm.wixsite.com/rainbows
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Two thumbs up for sure.  It keeps things interesting when something that should work doesn't.  
Charlie
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