06-24-2010, 07:01 PM
Now for part 2 of this tutorial.... As i mentioned in the beginning of the last tutorial, i do not have any construction pictures for making grade crossings as of yet, when i do do a grade crossing on the M&ET modules, i will edit this tutorial to include some pictures
Making Grade Crossings With Smooth-It
Tools
You will need the same tools as before. You will also need to get yourself a NMRA HO Scale Track Gauge (or whatever scale you are using) if you do not already have one
Laying out the roads
Refer to the tutorial about roads and highways and Laying the Paving Tape. Do just like you would do if this did not have a grade crossing, drawling the road around the tracks. After you do this, you can lay the Paving Tape.
Around the sides of the tracks, layer up the paving tape so that it is flush with the top of the rails. If i remember correctly it takes 2 or 3 layers of paving tape to reach the top of the rail so its flush. Lay a piece of paving tape across the ties between the rails as well.
Mixing the Smooth-It and the first pour
Refer to the tutorial above for mixing the Smooth-It.
If you do not already have a layer of Smooth-It down leading to the tracks, i would suggest doing this first to make the first pour for the grade crossing easier. Pour the mixture between the paving tape and take the spreader and level it out. Do the same for in-between the rails and the other side of the track(s). Make sure to clean the spreader off every once in a while so you start with a "new" spreader, the water on it helps smooth some as well, so its always a good idea to clean the spreader.
The layers of Paving Tape will act as sort of a ramp for the spreader to help you build the grade up to the rail tops on either side of the tracks. Make sure you smooth it out with your small Putty Knife in between the rails so that the pavement is not above the rails.
Wait a few minutes and then take your NMRA HO Scale Track Gauge (or whatever scale your using) and use the "Flangeways" Tool on the Gauge to scrap in between the rails. This will carve out a path for the wheel flanges on rolling stock and locos. Repeat this process until you have nice and clean Flangeways, making sure to wipe off the Smooth-It that is removed from the Track Gauge Tool. It does not have to be perfect, but you don't want to much material to dry in the Flangeways that could interfere with the wheels. DO NOT TEST RUN A TRAIN CAR THROUGH THE WET SMOOTH-IT! Wait for it to dry completely before running any train cars through it to test it. You really do not need to test it at all after this first coat anyways.
After the Road has dried for about an hour, remove the Paving Tape from in and around the tracks and rails. Let it completely dry till it turns white.
Pouring the Second Coat
After the first coat has completely dried, you can run a train car through it if you want to. If it jumps or sticks or anything, take a sharp hobby knife and pry looks the material that is causing whatever problem you might be having.
After this, take your small Putty Knife and scrap off any pavement that might be sticking up above the rails still. Also remove any raised parts from the grade up to the tracks as well. Be very careful not to dig to deep into the road around the grade. You can easily remove to much if you are not careful....
Repeat with laying the second coat from the last tutorial, a thicker mixture then the first pour..... It can be a little tricky around the grades to the rails to get it smooth, but if you work with it for a bit, you will eventually get it. Remember this is only the second coat and it still does not have to be completely smooth.
Fill in the Flangeways you dug out in the first pour, this will patch up anything that might have gotten chipped away. After, wait about 10 minutes and repeat with the NMRA Flangeways Tool as above in the first pour. It should be looking semi smooth by now.
Third Coat
Wait for the second coat to dry completely.
The third coat should be done just like the second coat, except this time do not fill in the Flangeways completely. You just want to fix and small bumps or dips or cracks that might still be in between the rails. Some Smooth-It will get into the Flangeways, dont worry about it, you can go through and scrap it out after a while with the NMRA Gauge...
At this point, after the third coat the grades around the tracks should be looking pretty smooth. As i said, it takes some patients and a lot of working with the large Putty knife to get it right. Remember, Grade Crossings, just like roads, are never completely smooth at all, they always have cracks, breaks, chips..... so if there not perfect, don't sweat it!
Fourth Coat
If you feel that a Fourth coat is needed, go for it and repeat the process for the third coat....
Painting and Finished Crossing
I chose to paint my crossing the same way as i did in the last tutorial. I just mixed Woodland Scenics Asphalt Top Coat with regular White Paint from the craft store to get a Gray color. Paint the crossing, don't be afraid to get your ties and rails covered in paint.... Just try not to get the ties on either side of the crossings. The rails can be wiped off when your done painting the crossing as well....
Here are a few pictures of my finished crossing that i did with Smooth-It on my old Shelf Layout:
![[Image: SL371280.jpg]](http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/bnsfcsxcnw/Layotus%20and%20Modules/Shelf%20Layout/SL371280.jpg)
![[Image: SL371281.jpg]](http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/bnsfcsxcnw/Layotus%20and%20Modules/Shelf%20Layout/SL371281.jpg)
![[Image: SL371282.jpg]](http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/bnsfcsxcnw/Layotus%20and%20Modules/Shelf%20Layout/SL371282.jpg)
Making Grade Crossings With Smooth-It
Tools
You will need the same tools as before. You will also need to get yourself a NMRA HO Scale Track Gauge (or whatever scale you are using) if you do not already have one
Laying out the roads
Refer to the tutorial about roads and highways and Laying the Paving Tape. Do just like you would do if this did not have a grade crossing, drawling the road around the tracks. After you do this, you can lay the Paving Tape.
Around the sides of the tracks, layer up the paving tape so that it is flush with the top of the rails. If i remember correctly it takes 2 or 3 layers of paving tape to reach the top of the rail so its flush. Lay a piece of paving tape across the ties between the rails as well.
Mixing the Smooth-It and the first pour
Refer to the tutorial above for mixing the Smooth-It.
If you do not already have a layer of Smooth-It down leading to the tracks, i would suggest doing this first to make the first pour for the grade crossing easier. Pour the mixture between the paving tape and take the spreader and level it out. Do the same for in-between the rails and the other side of the track(s). Make sure to clean the spreader off every once in a while so you start with a "new" spreader, the water on it helps smooth some as well, so its always a good idea to clean the spreader.
The layers of Paving Tape will act as sort of a ramp for the spreader to help you build the grade up to the rail tops on either side of the tracks. Make sure you smooth it out with your small Putty Knife in between the rails so that the pavement is not above the rails.
Wait a few minutes and then take your NMRA HO Scale Track Gauge (or whatever scale your using) and use the "Flangeways" Tool on the Gauge to scrap in between the rails. This will carve out a path for the wheel flanges on rolling stock and locos. Repeat this process until you have nice and clean Flangeways, making sure to wipe off the Smooth-It that is removed from the Track Gauge Tool. It does not have to be perfect, but you don't want to much material to dry in the Flangeways that could interfere with the wheels. DO NOT TEST RUN A TRAIN CAR THROUGH THE WET SMOOTH-IT! Wait for it to dry completely before running any train cars through it to test it. You really do not need to test it at all after this first coat anyways.
After the Road has dried for about an hour, remove the Paving Tape from in and around the tracks and rails. Let it completely dry till it turns white.
Pouring the Second Coat
After the first coat has completely dried, you can run a train car through it if you want to. If it jumps or sticks or anything, take a sharp hobby knife and pry looks the material that is causing whatever problem you might be having.
After this, take your small Putty Knife and scrap off any pavement that might be sticking up above the rails still. Also remove any raised parts from the grade up to the tracks as well. Be very careful not to dig to deep into the road around the grade. You can easily remove to much if you are not careful....
Repeat with laying the second coat from the last tutorial, a thicker mixture then the first pour..... It can be a little tricky around the grades to the rails to get it smooth, but if you work with it for a bit, you will eventually get it. Remember this is only the second coat and it still does not have to be completely smooth.
Fill in the Flangeways you dug out in the first pour, this will patch up anything that might have gotten chipped away. After, wait about 10 minutes and repeat with the NMRA Flangeways Tool as above in the first pour. It should be looking semi smooth by now.
Third Coat
Wait for the second coat to dry completely.
The third coat should be done just like the second coat, except this time do not fill in the Flangeways completely. You just want to fix and small bumps or dips or cracks that might still be in between the rails. Some Smooth-It will get into the Flangeways, dont worry about it, you can go through and scrap it out after a while with the NMRA Gauge...
At this point, after the third coat the grades around the tracks should be looking pretty smooth. As i said, it takes some patients and a lot of working with the large Putty knife to get it right. Remember, Grade Crossings, just like roads, are never completely smooth at all, they always have cracks, breaks, chips..... so if there not perfect, don't sweat it!
Fourth Coat
If you feel that a Fourth coat is needed, go for it and repeat the process for the third coat....
Painting and Finished Crossing
I chose to paint my crossing the same way as i did in the last tutorial. I just mixed Woodland Scenics Asphalt Top Coat with regular White Paint from the craft store to get a Gray color. Paint the crossing, don't be afraid to get your ties and rails covered in paint.... Just try not to get the ties on either side of the crossings. The rails can be wiped off when your done painting the crossing as well....
Here are a few pictures of my finished crossing that i did with Smooth-It on my old Shelf Layout: