10-15-2013, 12:00 AM
Another option is to use a different Kadee than you'd use on a freight car. If I recall correctly, either the #7 or #8 had a very short draught gear box (these seem to have been replaced by the 30 Series couplers). While those were short shank couplers, too, there's no reason why you couldn't use a longer-shanked coupler with that draught gear.
I've also used those plastic Kadee clones with the centring spring moulded as an integral part of the coupler's shank. Properly installed, it will self-centre without need of the mounting box, and it also gives you an insulated coupling - handy if you're double-heading all metal locomotives. Just make sure to use the version with a coil spring in the knuckle: those with a leaf-type knuckle spring will fail very quickly.
For small pilot openings, like those found on brass locomotives (many are blind openings) you can drill through, then use needle files to enlarge the opening and re-shape it to suit whichever coupler you're using.
In some cases, a regular Kadee of suitable shank length (or its all-plastic equivalent from the 20 Series) can be modified to fit the original opening simply by cutting off the mounting boss on the coupler, then shortening the remaining shank to give the length required. Drill a clearance hole in the shank and use the original #90 screw to hold it in place. While a coupler mounted in this manner will not self-centre (you'll need to train the little plastic brakemen how to kick them into alignment) they'll otherwise work just fine. I've mounted Kadees on brass locos which were equipped with dummy drop- and swing-type couplers, too (although the drop or swing action no longer functioned when converted to Kadees).
Wayne
I've also used those plastic Kadee clones with the centring spring moulded as an integral part of the coupler's shank. Properly installed, it will self-centre without need of the mounting box, and it also gives you an insulated coupling - handy if you're double-heading all metal locomotives. Just make sure to use the version with a coil spring in the knuckle: those with a leaf-type knuckle spring will fail very quickly.
For small pilot openings, like those found on brass locomotives (many are blind openings) you can drill through, then use needle files to enlarge the opening and re-shape it to suit whichever coupler you're using.
In some cases, a regular Kadee of suitable shank length (or its all-plastic equivalent from the 20 Series) can be modified to fit the original opening simply by cutting off the mounting boss on the coupler, then shortening the remaining shank to give the length required. Drill a clearance hole in the shank and use the original #90 screw to hold it in place. While a coupler mounted in this manner will not self-centre (you'll need to train the little plastic brakemen how to kick them into alignment) they'll otherwise work just fine. I've mounted Kadees on brass locos which were equipped with dummy drop- and swing-type couplers, too (although the drop or swing action no longer functioned when converted to Kadees).
Wayne