First HO Layout Critique

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Green, I have never had problems operating or running at speed with #4s either. That was a part of why I was planning to use them. Maybe it comes down to the equipment, how the turnout was laid, and the use?

I would agree with that, but I still think its wise to use a bigger turnout where practical.

Just like you, I didn't care about the look of track a few years ago. In all honesty, most equipment will run through a #4 and 18" radius... My large 2-10-2 didn't had any problem at all, passenger equipment too... but it doesn't look good and, worst, as stated previously, they make switching moves more tricky and are derailment prone when doing backward switching moves. Saving 5$ for a turnout makes no sense to me if it's not up to the job in the long term. Better invest in good track work and shop them wisely than regret, like Reinhard, a month later. I know, I learned the same hard way and I've got boxes full of Atlas Snap Switch #4 I'd like to get rid of at any cost. It's mainly the chief reason why I'm rebuilding Hedley-Junction Yard from scratch. You know what, going from Snap-Switch #4 to PECO #6 didn't shortened significantly the yard. In fact, it made transitions smoother, thus easier to operate at low speed. And at least, PECO 83 turnouts aren't deformed like Atlas Code 83 which are always bent in some mysterious way... what a worthless brittle piece of junk it is. Their Code 83 #4 are especially awful.

When I rebuilt my yard, I made sure that I replaced all the snap switchers for the same reason. I am curious how you got a 2-10-2 to fit on 18"! I can't get my 2-10-4 to go through even a 22" curve without the drivers binding! My GG1s aren't big fans either, and they are articulated!

Though I am continuously surprised by what WILL travel through an 18" curve, I've noticed that a lot of things will not, and the 18" inner oval is my most hated aspect of my current layout. Fortunately, I don't see any sections of 18" track on this track plan where it counts.

BTW, as Brakie said, there's a HUGE difference between Atlas Snap-Switch and Custom Line... On our previous club layout, we found out it was better to go custom line... but too late! Snap Switch is quite curved, made to be a part of a 18" radius curve. Custom Line is a true turnout and works far better and look better too.

Matt

The #4s on my layout are custom line, but I do indeed also have snap switches on my layout! I'd really like to get rid of them, but the nature of my track prevents them from being easily replaced. They make up the crossovers that also function as a run around next to my industrial park. The switches entering my industrial park, as well as all the other switches in that park, are all snap switches.

To be fair, I rarely have issues with the ones on my industrial park (and I better not, its the only ballasted and semi-embedded track on my layout!), but the crossovers are another story. On this particular switch on the inner oval, the crossover is set so that the "diverging" route is the mainline, while the "straight" route runs through the crossover to the outer oval.

As you can see below, my freight cars love to climb up the switch points. this hasn't happened so much lately, but it is trouble. I have tried filing the points and everything, but it seems pretty difficult to keep some cars on. I also checked the wheel gauge, which was fine.


My guess is that a snap switch isn't the most awful thing if its in an industrial park and its well installed and maintained. I should point out however, that I've had to replace several snap switches because the outer divergent rail would break loose and attempt to straighten out, so I don't know how trustworthy they might be. I'd definitely avoid them on the mainline in any future layout!