08-21-2014, 11:12 PM
Keying the driver to the axle will work, but you'll need to be very accurate when cutting the keyway. An easier way to key the driver to the axle is to install the wheel, quarter it, then drill a hole centred on the interface between the axle and wheel. It actually doesn't matter if it's truly centred as long as there's roughly equal portions of the hole in both the driver and axle. Size the hole to match a known diameter of music wire, then press the wire into the hole. Use a cut-off disc to remove any excess wire.
You could also try to increase the diameter of the axle using an old machinist's trick. First, install the wheel on the axle and quarter it, then scribe a line from the centre of the axle's end and out onto the wheel hub. This will provide a reference for the proper quartering position when re-assembling.
Next, remove the driver from the axle (should be easy
) and working on a block of wood or other means of keeping the remaining wheel off the surface of the workbench, place the axle end atop a mill file. Using a second file, press down firmly and roll the axle back and forth a few times - not too much. This process, known as upsetting, displaces some of the material of the axle, thereby increasing the apparent diameter. The axle doesn't, of course, fully increase in diameter, but enough material will be displaced to create a press fit for the enlarged hole in the driver.
Use the scribed reference mark to re-quarter the driver, then press it onto the axle. This method doesn't allow a lot of adjustment, as any twisting motion of the driver will tend to break-off the raised portions of the axle. Once the driver is in-quarter and properly gauged, apply some ca to the joint and set it aside to fully harden.
Wayne
You could also try to increase the diameter of the axle using an old machinist's trick. First, install the wheel on the axle and quarter it, then scribe a line from the centre of the axle's end and out onto the wheel hub. This will provide a reference for the proper quartering position when re-assembling.
Next, remove the driver from the axle (should be easy
) and working on a block of wood or other means of keeping the remaining wheel off the surface of the workbench, place the axle end atop a mill file. Using a second file, press down firmly and roll the axle back and forth a few times - not too much. This process, known as upsetting, displaces some of the material of the axle, thereby increasing the apparent diameter. The axle doesn't, of course, fully increase in diameter, but enough material will be displaced to create a press fit for the enlarged hole in the driver.Use the scribed reference mark to re-quarter the driver, then press it onto the axle. This method doesn't allow a lot of adjustment, as any twisting motion of the driver will tend to break-off the raised portions of the axle. Once the driver is in-quarter and properly gauged, apply some ca to the joint and set it aside to fully harden.
Wayne