Ashley shops of the CRR of NJ of 1890-1900
#4
toptrain Wrote:I have no access to a 3D printer and would not know what is necessary on my end to do it.
frank

3D printing is not "inexpensive", ( first the printer, and then the material the printer uses )and I personally, will never use it.

For your windows:
1. The material would depend on the material the kit is made of. If wood /Card stock, window frames can be wood strip.
If plastic, then plastic strip. ( I would recommend getting a hypodermic syringe, and "Blunt tip" needles for the application of wood glue on the wood windows ). A fine tip brush, and solvent type glue for the plastic. ( I use MEK, Methyl Ethyl Ketone , for styrene. ) (( VENTILATE, and avoid as much skin contact as possible ))

2. Each different window size, would need a different "building jig" ( keeps all the parts aligned and square ) If you haven't used jigs for multiple part building, I highly recommend them, and it's a whole new "learning curve" well worth the effort.

3. the choice to "glaze" the windows or not, is up to you. Again the building jig for each size window could have a "support" in the center of each pane, to lay the glazing material on while the adhesive sets. I would recommend painting/staining the window muntins, before adding the "glass" panes.

4. Each window frames, once painted/stained and dry, can be placed back in the jig, for the process of adding glass.
It helps no end, in achieving virtually identical windows.

5. As with any new procedure, do several "test assemblies" to "get the hang of it". Wink Wink Big Grin

Hope this helps. Thumbsup Smile
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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