12-15-2008, 05:13 PM
LokSound decoder for P2K GP38-2
Besides the quality of the sound, I like LokSound decoders for their excellent motor control. That’s why I wanted to have one for my P2K GP38-2. To put it into the engine is not quite a plug and play installation. Although the GP38-2 is equipped with a DCC plug, it is far from being DCC ready. Before you can plug a decoder in, you have to remove the light bulbs (I replaced them with golden white LEDs). To get the best sound possible, I wanted to use the 1" speaker that comes with the LokSound decoder. The only place to put a speaker that size is the cab and even there it is a very tight fit. I cut the baffle of the speaker down to 7,5 mm (ca. .285"). Then I used a Dremel with a fibre cutting disc to mill the frame at the back of the cab.
![[Image: m8.jpg]](http://www.cnw.mattheydesign.de/m8.jpg)
![[Image: m9.jpg]](http://www.cnw.mattheydesign.de/m9.jpg)
The next picture shows the modifications to the shell that were needed to make the speaker fit.
![[Image: m10.jpg]](http://www.cnw.mattheydesign.de/m10.jpg)
Besides the quality of the sound, I like LokSound decoders for their excellent motor control. That’s why I wanted to have one for my P2K GP38-2. To put it into the engine is not quite a plug and play installation. Although the GP38-2 is equipped with a DCC plug, it is far from being DCC ready. Before you can plug a decoder in, you have to remove the light bulbs (I replaced them with golden white LEDs). To get the best sound possible, I wanted to use the 1" speaker that comes with the LokSound decoder. The only place to put a speaker that size is the cab and even there it is a very tight fit. I cut the baffle of the speaker down to 7,5 mm (ca. .285"). Then I used a Dremel with a fibre cutting disc to mill the frame at the back of the cab.
The next picture shows the modifications to the shell that were needed to make the speaker fit.
Kurt