Redetailing a Athearn USRA mikado into a PRR L2s
#2
An easy way to plug holes, either round or square ones, in plastic is to use a plastic plug that is of the same shape but slightly over-size. Use a suitably-sized brush to apply solvent cement (I use lacquer thinner) to both the inside wall(s) of the hole and the outside surfaces of the plug. Wait a few seconds while it softens the plastic somewhat, then force the plug into place. When the plug will no longer advance into the hole, set the whole works aside, preferably overnight, to harden. There will be some of the softened plastic squished out around the hole, (hardened, of course) but a #17 chisel blade in your X-Acto will remove it easily, along with the protruding end of the plug. Once smoothed and painted, the plug will be invisible. If you get impatient and try to smooth the plugged area before the plastic has re-hardened, you'll make a mess that will be difficult to hide. Wink Misngth
For "plug" material, I like to use a suitably-sized piece of Evergreen styrene strip or rod, as I always have a range of sizes on hand. If you find yourself short of such material, a piece of plastic sprue can be shaped with a knife or file to form a suitable plug.

For detail parts, Cal-Scale, a division of Bowser, offers detail set 190-2001, which is a PRR modern front end kit. Included are a generator, a pair of Pennsy-style markers/class lights, a headlight with a tapered back end, along with a mounting bracket, a keystone-shaped number plate for the smokebox front, and a large platform similar to those used above the pilot-mounted air tanks on the Hippos.

Cary, another division of Bowser, offers PRR marker lights, part 13-106, and both Cal-Scale and Cary have various styles of bells and generators available.

Wayne
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