Rainbows in the Lehigh Valley Gorge

[TMo]

Hillyard,

Good questions!

- The glue I use is a gap filling 5-10 second hold Cyanoacrylate glue - branding is "Insta-Cure+". I can't take credit for picking this glue - it was recommended by Clever Models and they know what they're talking about. They always recommend "less is more" on glue application - but if there is too much on the paper it does not bubble, and you can scrape the extra with the edge of your knife. This glue comes in two different types of applicators - the more ideal is the long skinny nozzle with a push on cap, but that nozzle does tend to clog after a good many uses, and it becomes problematic as the glue ages and the cap collects glue. The other option is a screw on top, but the hole for glue is a bit larger than the other long skinny nozzle, so you tend to get a little too much glue coming out during application. The good part is that the screw on cap doesn't allow air to get to the glue and it tends to last longer.

- The "backing" is cardstock that I run through my inkjet printer. There are different weights of cardstock, but the general recommendation for HO scale cardstock models is between "60" and "80" pound cardstock. I don't know if it's ream weight or what, but cardstock wrappers will show the weight.

- I use an Olfa knife with a chisel blade - it's the Xacto equivalent, but I find that the Japanese make a far superior blade - Olfa knifes are sold in Lowe's and they come with a pack of about 5 replacement blades. Getting just the blades is much more expensive for some reason, so I just buy a new knife and 5 blades every 6 months or so at Lowe's.

- Each "kit" does require a good bit of cutting, and a straight edge is recommended, but I also do quite a bit of freehand cuts, most of which are mostly straight.

If you're interested in some Expert tips and tricks for cardstock modeling, here's a great link from Clever - http://clevermodels.squarespace.com/tips-tricks/