Long crank pins

[nkp_174]

That drive looks great. I never thought of using plastic for side rods even though some of the big manufactures do. I feel so stupid, why didn't think of that. I've hit a serious snag in the valve gear of my CNJ 4-8-0. It's been sitting untouched for about a year now, and cutting them from plastic may be just the thing because it's so much easier to work with. That pic was just the thing to get me back to work on it.
sorry I can't help with your issue, but I do have a question... what thickness styrene did you use on the rods?

Glad I could help! Mine are 0.040" thick...they should be, for such an engine (apprx 28 ton), 2.5" thick. I found styrene to be an easier material both to get accurate rods cut out, as well as to detail. I'll probably use brass for my HOn3 2-8-0 project...once I work my way through the que to get to it.

If I had the material and equipment...I'd go with etched or machined nickel silver for rods. If I was to go with brass...I'd build them in styrene and send them to the Backshop to be burned out into brass. I'd guess that either 0.030" or even 0.040" thick styrene would be fine for an HO 4-8-0.

Kevin, thanks for checking that out. I can think of a few other ways to make it work based off of your helpful advise. I haven't measured the screw size...they were what came with the BLI drivers. I may just replace all of them if I get such a die. Their 0-80 is, according to my caliper, the closest in size (nearly dead on).