An engine servicing facility for the JGL
I find a sheet of plastic, such as styrene, is good place on which to mix epoxy, as, when cured, the residue will lift right off. Eek Epoxy is okay to affix styrene in place, as long as there's also a mechanical connection, such as pins or an interlocking fit between parts.
The lacquer thinner can be applied with a brush - I use a 1" brush when I'm working with larger surface areas. Just paint it on the rear face of the styrene brick material, wait a minute or two, then brush on the contact cement. Make sure to let the contact cement dry to the touch before joining the two surfaces, though, and to be sure of the proper alignment, as contact cement does not allow repositioning. The plywood sub-structure may need two coats of contact cement, as the wood often absorbs too much of the initial application to give a good bond.

I used this method some years ago to place all of the styrene streets on the plywood layout top, and have had no issues of lifting, warping or deformation of the styrene.
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Wayne
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