Looking for a Specific Tender

[doctorwayne]

Thanks guys!

You probably also noted that the domes on the top of the boiler are in different positions as well. Is this something that could be carefully modified, or should I just leave it be and take a little modellers license on this one?

The domes can be removed from these locos, although it will leave a hole in the boiler shell under each. New domes, in various sizes and styles, are available from Precision Scale and you can also make your own. The existing steam dome looks to be fairly similar to the sand dome of the prototype, but it's of a smaller diameter than the sand dome (on the model), meaning that you'd need to fill the hole where the original sand dome now sits. The position of the existing steam dome is about right, while the sand dome should be moved slightly forward to match the prototype.

There are several approaches to take when trying to make a generic model look like a specific prototype. It's always a good idea to start with photos of the real thing, and dimensional information (driver size, wheelbase, tender capacities, etc., etc.) if you can find it. A possible resource might be CPR Steam Database, although I've not personally visited this site. Other useful places are Richard Leonard's Steam Locomotive Archive and Old Time Trains Most models will require compromises and it's up to the individual modeller to decide which are acceptable and which are not.

Your tracklaying abilities leave no doubt in my mind that you could do a full-blown conversion job on this loco, although that may not be something which would be of interest to you. An acceptable alternative is to change certain key elements that identify a loco as one belonging to a specific railroad, and the CPR's locos could seldom be mistaken for those of any other North American road.
For the prototype you've chosen, CPR identifiers include the all-weather cab style, the fairing on the sides of the running boards, including the style of step down to the pilot deck, the flared stack, and the number board, although the latter is more typical of those used by the CNR. The tender style is one of several used by the CPR, but is specific to this particular locomotive, so should be matched, if possible.
The cab, as mentioned, is available and easily changed, and by altering the steps at the front of the model's running boards, the fairing could be easily constructed from .010" or .015" sheet styrene. A suitable number board is available commercially, or could be easily built from styrene. The Proto tender is the simplest conversion of the ones suggested, and may not even need to be shortened - place it behind the loco to see if the proportions "look right" - the coal bunker sides will have to be shortened, but the cistern....maybe, maybe not. If it does need to be shortened, I'd cut it so that the section between the two vertical lines of rivets (on my picture of the 8414) is removed, along with one of the vertical rivet lines - this would shorten the cistern and the coal bunker in one operation. Make the cut to shorten the tender frame so that it occurs somewhere that doesn't coincide with the joint in the re-assembled superstructure. (You'll also need to take into consideration the circuit board in the tender - it may need to be altered or replaced in order to fit into the shortened body shell - for us dinosaurs still running DC, not a problem. ) As for the stack, there's nothing in the PSC catalogue that looks exactly like it, even though they show over 50 different ones. Miniatures By Eric probably has something suitable - they specialise in Canadian-specific details. If you're interested, PSC does offer a spoked wheelset for the lead truck. I don't think that altering or moving the domes would be worth the effort for this type of conversion, though.

Of course, it's possible to carry such modifications much further. I modified a Proto USRA 0-8-0 to match photos of a real CNR loco -
[album]1384[/album]

[album]1383[/album]

In addition to internal modifications to increase the loco's tractive effort, the front frame was extended to accommodated the CNR-style front end, and the rear frame was modified to match the profile of the prototype. The running boards were lowered, all of the piping re-done with brass wire of the proper diameter, re-routed as required, and new air tanks fashioned from brass tubing and lead, and relocated farther inboard that those of the original model. A new headlight, number boards, handrails, front-end throttle, top-mounted check valve, and bell were added as well. The cab roof was modified, as was the generator and a turret cover was added, as were extra grab irons. The front and rear stepboards were also rebuilt to match those of the protoytype, using brass bar. On the tender, I opened up the coal bunker by removing the cast coal load, then built an open bunker to allow for the use of loose "coal". The bunker handrails were modified, and new handrails added around the top of the cistern and at the rear of the tank. I also added a new back-up light and stand, and replaced the ladder with a new one, scratchbuilt from brass and placed on the opposite side of the rear of the tender.
Quite a bit of work, and there are still compromises.

Here's an example of what I mean by changing only key elements of a model to give it the "feel" of a particular prototype.
My good friend Mister Nutbar wanted his Proto USRA 0-8-0 to appear more like a CNR loco, too, but to make the job easier and cheaper, not to mention more practical for his particular situation, we decided to change only those details that would make it appear similar to a typical CNR 0-8-0. This involved re-working the front end in a slightly "condensed" version that didn't require lengthening the frame - this included moving the headlight to the centre of the smokebox front, adding a CNR-style number board and number plate, and the distinctive CNR-style front handrails. On the tender, only the signature extended handrails around the coal bunker were added, although I did build an open coal bunker to allow loose coal loads. Since the model was already factory-painted and lettered, some touch-up to blend in the modifications and a little weathering completed the job.


I'm sure that your modified loco will turn out well. The degree to which you rebuild it, though, is up to you.

Wayne