09-18-2009, 07:07 AM
Here's the relevent part of an article that I wrote several years ago, called Take it off! Take it all off...
Let me start with this disclaimer:
Styrene and resin models can be temperamental and reactive to chemical exposure and may melt, soften, warp or become brittle and crack if exposed to chemicals.
I found out at a local hobby shop that Oven Cleaner will work. I read in a model railroad how-to book put out by Atlas that this will work too. But not just any Oven Cleaner. Use the none aerosol type.
A better option is to use Pine-Sol or other similar non-bleaching household cleanser.
Either way, check the ingredients to make sure that there are - Absolutely NO PETRO CHEMICALS - !
Some products will state that they are safe to use on plastics. Don't just take their word for it... Test it for yourself first. I have had great results using an industrial strength cleaner/degreaser that I got at work. I checked the ingredients and tested a small section of a Locomotive shell first to see if it would work.
The stuff I used contains SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM METASILICATE, MONOETHANOLAMINE, NON IONIC SURFACTANT, ESTER TYPE SURFACTANT, AND Water.
Caution this stuff is corrosive and will dry out and irritate your skin! Wear rubber (Chemical resistant) gloves. Safety goggles are a good idea too since you will be using this stuff full strength and it will really, really hurt or worse if any gets in your eyes. Rinse thoroughly with water if you get any on your skin or in your eyes. After testing, I soaked the shells I wanted to strip for an hour or two at a time and scrubbed with an old toothbrush until squeaky-clean. You might want to
check every few minutes or so to check progress and make sure that the plastics are not being harmed.
When you are satisfied with the results, rinse the shells thoroughly under running water until all traces of the cleaner are gone.
Some of you may want to remove decals but leave the paint intact. I have read on the Bachmann Board that you can use denatured alcohol. Rub the decal with a tissue or Q-tip (Cotton Swab) soaked in denatured alcohol until the decal dissolves and comes off. I haven't tried this so I can only pass along the information.
Be careful and take your time.
Other products that are reported to work are carburetor cleaner or brake fluid, which can be found at automotive supply stores. A couple of other products that you might want to try are 3M's Safest Stripper, Oops! and Citrisolve.
Remember to try a test piece first!
If you are wary of using chemicals there is always the option of sanding the old paint off.
This has its own danger. Styrene and resin are soft, and sanding will remove more than just the paint. You may also lose moulded on details and texture.
Good Luke and happy peeling!
Let me start with this disclaimer:
Styrene and resin models can be temperamental and reactive to chemical exposure and may melt, soften, warp or become brittle and crack if exposed to chemicals.
I found out at a local hobby shop that Oven Cleaner will work. I read in a model railroad how-to book put out by Atlas that this will work too. But not just any Oven Cleaner. Use the none aerosol type.
A better option is to use Pine-Sol or other similar non-bleaching household cleanser.
Either way, check the ingredients to make sure that there are - Absolutely NO PETRO CHEMICALS - !
Some products will state that they are safe to use on plastics. Don't just take their word for it... Test it for yourself first. I have had great results using an industrial strength cleaner/degreaser that I got at work. I checked the ingredients and tested a small section of a Locomotive shell first to see if it would work.
The stuff I used contains SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM METASILICATE, MONOETHANOLAMINE, NON IONIC SURFACTANT, ESTER TYPE SURFACTANT, AND Water.
Caution this stuff is corrosive and will dry out and irritate your skin! Wear rubber (Chemical resistant) gloves. Safety goggles are a good idea too since you will be using this stuff full strength and it will really, really hurt or worse if any gets in your eyes. Rinse thoroughly with water if you get any on your skin or in your eyes. After testing, I soaked the shells I wanted to strip for an hour or two at a time and scrubbed with an old toothbrush until squeaky-clean. You might want to
check every few minutes or so to check progress and make sure that the plastics are not being harmed.
When you are satisfied with the results, rinse the shells thoroughly under running water until all traces of the cleaner are gone.
Some of you may want to remove decals but leave the paint intact. I have read on the Bachmann Board that you can use denatured alcohol. Rub the decal with a tissue or Q-tip (Cotton Swab) soaked in denatured alcohol until the decal dissolves and comes off. I haven't tried this so I can only pass along the information.
Be careful and take your time.
Other products that are reported to work are carburetor cleaner or brake fluid, which can be found at automotive supply stores. A couple of other products that you might want to try are 3M's Safest Stripper, Oops! and Citrisolve.
Remember to try a test piece first!
If you are wary of using chemicals there is always the option of sanding the old paint off.
This has its own danger. Styrene and resin are soft, and sanding will remove more than just the paint. You may also lose moulded on details and texture.
Good Luke and happy peeling!
Ron Wm. Hurlbut
Toronto, Ontario, Dominion of Canada
Ontario Narrow Gauge Show
Humber Valley & Simcoe Railway Blog
Toronto, Ontario, Dominion of Canada
Ontario Narrow Gauge Show
Humber Valley & Simcoe Railway Blog